Thread: coolent temp fe

Tweet

You will want the size fan that will best fit the size of the fin area on your radiator...but in addition to looking at the fan diameter, it's equally important to make sure it has a high CFM rating. I've seen some of these large fans that don't flow much more then about 1500 CFM--IMO for proper cooling with an electric fan you should have at least 2000 CFM. The core and fin size of the radiator is important to cooling also, as well as if it's a single, double, or triple pass radiator. With all the different companies selling aluminum radiators and electric cooling fans, there should be a lot of specs that go into selecting the proper components other then just the price......Also, as Roger mentioned, shrouding the radiator is important---if all the air coming in the front of the car passes over, under, or around the radiator it's not going to be doing much cooling of the radiator!!! A final thought, there also needs to be enough open area to allow the hot air surrounding the engine to exit the engine compartment.....

ok well im going to build a shroud for it and see what happens and then i will let you no thanks and also at those temps when would you shut it down how hot

a good indication of how much air flow from a electric fan is the amps it draws

It would be very helpful if you would go back through this thread and answer each of the questions asked, or address the things that have been done vs just answering the last question in the list. For example, Hoss asked

Originally Posted by HOSS429

when does it overheat ? as you are driving it or as it sits and idles .. it should`nt over heat going down the road even without a fan ..and hotter weather plays a big role

This is a very important point - you should not be overheating going down the open road if you have sufficient cooling area, radiator capacity and coolant flow in your system, along with a good thermostat. Dave pointed out that the diameter of the fan needs to be matched to your radiator fin area - if your radiator is only 16" wide then putting a 19" fan on it is going to require some fancy footwork on the shroud at best, and a better answer might be a higher flow, more efficient 16" fan that fits the application. Jerry has pointed out that cfm ratings can be challenging on electric fans, and that the amp draw is the best indication of what work it is doing - you'll see a cfm vs amps chart with SPAL fans for this reason. You've said that you are going to try a shroud, which I guess means that up to now your fan is mounted behind the radiator but can pull air from the path of least resistance. No offense, but you've got several people trying to help you figure out your problem, but it seems to me that the feedback loop is not working very well. If it's just me I'm sorry, but I feel like we're sort of shooting in the dark here.

the fan says its a 2650cfm! so i guess will see how it acts with a shroud

its going to overheat

why do you say that will a shroud make it worse and what do you sugjest i do im up fod advice

no it has never boiled over and yep i think your hinting around it needing to break in and you are prob rite but i just dont no how hot i can operate it at dont want to cook it lol

In my first post i said it runs 210-225 NO MATTER WHAT thats why i am set back it does not matter if i set, drive in town or go, 100mph on the hiway it may go down to 200 or 205 at really high speeds but im not sure have not drove it enough because i dont want to kill it lol. The 16 inch fan is mounted to the radiator and it takes up almost all the finn section except for a few inches in the corner and top (thats why i am building a shroud) and i no you guys are all tryn to help out but in all respect my one question was about engine timing and if it effects cooling temps and what temps the FE runs at so im sorry if you feal like i have waisted your time but thanks for all the input

Ok cool im gonna try your thermostat trick and also do you think i should buy a high flow water pump or what are your suggestions for the water pump.. And thank you very much

Water pump pulley size can be an issue, too.... possibly the wrong size pulley on either the water pump or the crank and slowing the water pump down too much????

Originally Posted by 61galaxiefe

Ok cool im gonna try your thermostat trick and also do you think i should buy a high flow water pump or what are your suggestions for the water pump.. And thank you very much

I've heard bad things about high flow water pumps, actually moving the water too fast for good heat transfer, both picking up heat from the engine, and getting rid of it in the radiator. I'm suggesting that you might be able to actually see the flow via the cap direct into the tank (mine is off of a remote neck), or pull the pump and inspect the impeller, and the attachment of the impeller to the shaft.

Originally Posted by Dave Severson

Water pump pulley size can be an issue, too.... possibly the wrong size pulley on either the water pump or the crank and slowing the water pump down too much????

Dave, that's a very good point, too, and one I had not thought of. A set of under drive pulleys could also be the source of reduced coolant flow.

'61galaxie,
Have you shot the system with an infra-red heat gun? It would be interesting to see what an accurate direct readout says for temps on your block, top tank, bottom tank, heads, etc., just for grins. Your local auto parts store might have a loaner?

Does the 61 have a cross flow radiator??? and I want to know what the diminsions of the core are, how many rows of fins per inch, how many rows of tubes and the width of the tubes ( one inch, 1 1/4 in, 1 1/2 in), how high pressure cap , is it a closed system with a recirculate cap, and if you have put a thermometer in the water-----

Probably not in the 60s, but in the 70s Ford had some valves that when warm would change the vacume to the dist to manifold vac to increase timing which raised idle speed which increased water flow AND fan speed----

Your vehicle was designed with properly shrouded engine driven fan and without it your engine is going to overheat with an accessory add on fan---you need to use a complete package of an oem type fan package and it will probably draw more amps than your 60s electric system puts out---

THATS SOME GREAT INPUT GUYS THIS IS THE RAD I GOT FROM SPEED WAY.
All-aluminum, furnace-brazed construction
No epoxy glue or crimped in gaskets
Maximum amount of fins per inch allows greater heat transfer
Two rows of 1" aluminum tubes (out cools five rows of copper)
Billet filler neck, neck not stamped Available in 31" width (measurements include tanks)
19" tall
1-1/2" (upper) inlet
1-3/4" (lower) outlet
AND I HAVE GOT RID OFF THE SURGE TANK ADDED A WATER NECK AND AND OVER FLOW TANK I WILL TRY AND GET SOME PICS THIS WEAKEND

Oh and i still have the stock 19'' 7blade fan i can put back on if so will i need to use a clutch (it may not fit)lol