Thread: Which Carb for my 350?

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Dont want to hijack this thread, but I have the same question, same engine, perhaps the same use.

I currently have an old edelbrock 1406 on a edel high perf intake manifold. Neither myself or another old school mechanic can get it tuned just right.

So I have been looking at alternatives, get another rebuilt 1406, try to rebuild it myself, or look at a holley.

On other forums I have seen folks say that a vacuum secondary is the best thing since sliced bread. I dont believe that the 1406 has a vacuum secondary but the holley O-80570 does.

The question is Are vacuum secondarys better in a street/mild performance engine better?


Thanks!

My Holley had gear driven secondaries. Ran great on the street and track. Drove it around town and on long cross country trips.
BTW: Fuel consumption was no big deal back then.

Originally Posted by pro70z28

BTW: Fuel consumption was no big deal back then.

It still isn't, in this car... But my HUMMER is another story.

Originally Posted by Hot Rod Surfer

Dont want to hijack this thread, but I have the same question, same engine, perhaps the same use.

I currently have an old edelbrock 1406 on a edel high perf intake manifold. Neither myself or another old school mechanic can get it tuned just right.

So I have been looking at alternatives, get another rebuilt 1406, try to rebuild it myself, or look at a holley.

On other forums I have seen folks say that a vacuum secondary is the best thing since sliced bread. I dont believe that the 1406 has a vacuum secondary but the holley O-80570 does.

The question is Are vacuum secondarys better in a street/mild performance engine better?

Thanks!

First of all, E-brocks have a mechanical secondary with an air opened valve, for no better term above those secondary plates.

Secondly, most problems with these carbs is dirt - they are quite sensitive to crud. You need a very good filter ahead of them. This is what I use: and it's the Speedway 6" version



An early photo with only one bracket installed

Then, they are very easy to tune but you will need one of their kits. An 'old school' mechanic may have the skills, but he just can't get these carbs running their best without that kit as well as the Owner's Manual: http://www.edelbrock.com/automotive_...ers_manual.pdf

The kits - and this one is the most complete: http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EDL-1479/ (or the EDL-1487 which is for fewer parts and choices and quite a bit cheaper)

Dave,

Thanks for all the info!!! Most of my carb experience is with old Warner SU on MG, Triumph and that sort.

I do have the owners manual but the suggestion for the kit is just what I am looking for!!! I had used the other kit that you mentioned during the build, and it used to be set up well, but has degraded to a point where I need to do something.

Moe was a bit red when he had to tell me that this was the best he could get it...

I have found through the years that many carb problems can be solved by adjusting the fuel pressure to 5 psi at the carb inlet, installing a good filter like IC2 said and adjusting the ignition timing for more initial at the crank if you're running any kind of cam more than stock. Here's a chart from Barry Grant that shows how much crank lead to put in the motor....
http://www.barrygrant.com/demon/default.aspx?page=5

Berry has gone under, the BG tech advises that anyone wishing to get tech information should move on that quickly because there is no specific time as to how long the web sight will still be available .... fyi

So what are the advantages or disadvantages of a dual or triple carb set up?