Thread: Brake Bleeding

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Originally Posted by rdobbs

Replaced both front brake hoses. One was completely stopped up. Replaced
both rear hyrdaluic cylinders as they were stuck. The Port valve is a big
pain in the rear. I did blow it out and did some cleaning, but the local parts
store said he could not get one due to age of trk....I was just wondering if
I would have a problem bypassing the Port valve all-together and just use
tees?

Did you open it and clean it? or did you just cleaned the outside and try to blow air through it?
It is basic, just open it up and clean the inside, remove the switch pin from the front, if you think it's dirty inside. Carefull and you will not need any new seals. odds are you don't need a new one.

It is most likely just off center and locking the flow. and don't need to be opened up, just recentered.

BEFORE OPENING!!!! remove the switch terminal, or else you will break the end off. If you didn't already by blowing air through it. You can buy just the treminal if you do break it off.

Pat

Thanks for the info and diagram. Back to one of my questions. Can you
operate the breaks without the valve?

You could but I wouldn't.
The front where the 2 separate front lines goes to, makes it so your front brakes don't pull to one side before the pressure equals out, and it also sets pressure on to the rear brakes lightly before it sends the pressure to the fronts, and then applies the rear brakes so that you don't get the rear to lock before the fronts start to work. Cause it takes a lot less pressure to lock the rears, than it take to make the front work.

You could use a manual adjustable one, but it doesn't work as good or the same as using the one you have factory. Plus you have a trip light on the factory one. I would keep it.

Pat.

Originally Posted by HemiTCoupe

You could but I wouldn't.
The front where the 2 separate front lines goes to, makes it so your front brakes don't pull to one side before the pressure equals out, and it also sets pressure on to the rear brakes lightly before it sends the pressure to the fronts, and then applies the rear brakes so that you don't get the rear to lock before the fronts start to work. Cause it takes a lot less pressure to lock the rears, than it take to make the front work.

You could use a manual adjustable one, but it doesn't work as good or the same as using the one you have factory. Plus you have a trip light on the factory one. I would keep it.

Pat.

Pat,
I was thinking the same thing - you can, but why? The valve also warns you if you lose 1/2 of the master cylinder by lighting the e-brake light while you're braking. A person could go for weeks with a failing MC, not knowing it was less than 100% until a panic stop situation. I'd fix it.