Thread: Wiring Harness Terminations

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Originally Posted by Henry Rifle

Roger,

Here's the answer. Crimp all your connections . . . then solder them.

Jack, I was thinking of splicing each one, then crimping one leg and soldering the other but I can't decide on how to splice them, soldered or crimped.

Originally Posted by HWORRELL

Couldn't have said it better myself

Roger, the correct term is, buss bar, a new Google search will turn up something more useful.

Mike

Originally Posted by Mike52

Roger, the correct term is, buss bar, a new Google search will turn up something more useful.

Mike

Buzz Bar gives some better results...and it's in your neck of the woods!! http://www.buzzsbar.com/

Another detailed quetion on terminating. I have three pin/plug connectors for dash wiring that I need to complete. The pins are loose, to be installed on the various sensor/power wires and inserted into the proper plug location. The base of each pin has two sets of tabs, one skinny to wrap the insulation at the base, and a heavier one to wrap the insulation. I have been told that these are a mechancial connector, to carefully bend the tabs down and crimp without destroying the shape, and that for OEM connectors people take them apart and re-terminate them. What is the proper method of installing these pins to the wires, since they cannot have any added bulk on the outside of the pins?

Roger, those appear to be Molex connectors and are a bugger to properly crimp without the proper tool. As you can see they are not weather proof, but are decent low power connectors to be used where they are not exposed to the elements. I've used many over the years and I always solder them with the help of a "helping hands" tool I bought at Harbor Freight. If I was a little closer I'd gladly give you a hand.

Originally Posted by NTFDAY

Roger, those appear to be Molex connectors and are a bugger to properly crimp without the proper tool. As you can see they are not weather proof, but are decent low power connectors to be used where they are not exposed to the elements. I've used many over the years and I always solder them with the help of a "helping hands" tool I bought at Harbor Freight. If I was a little closer I'd gladly give you a hand.

Ken,
I recognize the Molex name from Navy aviation, and I figured that there was likely some special tool for the connectors. The Painless instrument backplane harness has connectors attached, and the mating connectors are made up from the fuse block side in the car which makes soldering more of a challenge than on the bench.

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

yep i used them as well i bent the upper tin tab in ward before with needle nose pliers and crimp them then at the end of wire going thru the connector crimp part i put a very small amout of solder you have to watch that you add a very small amount of solder up hill so the solder will not run in tube part of the connector

Pat,
Your mention of solder flowing into the tube was one of my concerns, and I think that your up hill, minimum flux method will be the approach.

Thanks for the input, guys.

Originally Posted by rspears

What is the proper method of installing these pins to the wires, since they cannot have any added bulk on the outside of the pins?

Roger, this is the crimp tool I use to get the proper, compact crimp to allow the pins to fit into the connector housing. Unfortunately, there isn't a brand name on the tool and I've had it for so long that CRS prevents me from remembering where I got it. I noticed the tool still has the white paint dots on the dies I used on my last wire job (I told you I had CRS ). I also have a ratcheting crimper that I use for Deustch connector pins (it has Volvo stamped on it). Summit sells a reasonable copy of an MSD ratcheting crimp tool that works very well. I believe it comes with dies to crimp spark plug wires, you will have to get the appropiate set of dies for the type of connector you're using separately.

Mike

Originally Posted by Mike52

Roger, this is the crimp tool I use to get the proper, compact crimp to allow the pins to fit into the connector housing. Unfortunately, there isn't a brand name on the tool and I've had it for so long that CRS prevents me from remembering where I got it. I noticed the tool still has the white paint dots on the dies I used on my last wire job (I told you I had CRS ). I also have a ratcheting crimper that I use for Deustch connector pins (it has Volvo stamped on it). Summit sells a reasonable copy of an MSD ratcheting crimp tool that works very well. I believe it comes with dies to crimp spark plug wires, you will have to get the appropiate set of dies for the type of connector you're using separately.

Mike

Mike,
I saw a crimper like that for Molex pins at a custom shop this morning and his was from MAC Tools - very simple concept with the small point on one jaw that rolls the tabs into the center. I think for the few that I have to do I will do them manually. I am using a ratcheting crimper with multiple jaws like you reference - borrowed it from my son who wires airplanes and it works great.

Roger check out the Ron Francis website. They have both the ground bars and the power bars. Mount it under the dash and bring back all the grounds to it and take a main to the batt post.http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GW-15
http://www.ronfrancis.com/prodinfo.asp?number=GW-16

yep i used them as well i bent the upper tin tab in ward before with needle nose pliers and crimp them then at the end of wire going thru the connector crimp part i put a very small amout of solder you have to watch that you add a very small amount of solder up hill so the solder will not run in tube part of the connector