Thread: Garage Painting for Dummies

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I've probably done more paint jobs in the garage then in a booth...and I've got to admit sometimes with a whole lot less then adequate exhaust... I've got a good fan now, and going to an HVLP gun a number of years back made things even better, really cuts down on the overspray.

I've seen a lot more bad paint jobs then good one's done, and most of them go right back to the prep work--or rather the lack of it--prior to the paint going on the car.. Guy I know can lay down paint and clear like nobody's business, but his prep work absolutely sucks, and consequently the finished product is lousy!!!

Guess what I'm saying is, don't let the "garage job" label be an excuse to do poor prep work and ABSOLUTELY DO NOT be in a big dang hurry to grab the gun and put paint on the car thinking that the "paint will hide it" cuz paint doesn't hide a thing, only makes it look worse!!! It does take good equipment to do good paint, but like Pat and others I've also done a lot of work in less then perfect conditions with less then the best in equipment and had paint jobs come out quite nice, but it was because of the prep work, not because of the booth or equipment. I know it's a big kick to get the shiny stuff on a project you've been working on for a couple years, just don't do it until the body work and substrates are as good as possible!!!! When you think all the panels are flat, the lines are clean and defined, the sanding scratches are all gone, and the curves are smooth and flowing, put on another coat of hi-build and block it again!!! Works for me!

Gotta agree what Dave said,
If ya think it's ready to paint, go ahead and shoot 1 coat of black on it.
Then the next day block it out 1 more time with 600.
Now your ready to paint it !!

Roger - this is the fan I use along with their optional variable speed switch to control the output. The "shutter" in front of it was just a piece of plywood to direct the air flow higher. That actual air flow for this fan is 1050, but I only needed to run it at about 2/3rds speed to keep the air moving and exhausting properly. Any more air, speed, mostly and I found that it would pick up any dirt and of course deposit it on the fresh paint. It does have an internal shutter which is more for keeping little beasts out when its off.

http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/T...ctinfo/FA-VFT/

http://www.greenhousemegastore.com/V.../CT-VFT130144/

I used the $141 version (tho it was about $20 cheaper when I bought mine)

Dave,
Thanks - I bought an almost identical fan through Tractor Supply, but mine is a larger 24", 4200 SCFM unit mounted in the gable of the barn for ventillation. I am building a diverter box to fit over the fan box, bringing the inlet down to near floor level, and I have segregated one end (12x30) of the barn with plastic, bringing air in through a pair of filter boxes that mount at the bottom of the two garage doors. I just ordered one of those variable speed controllers from the greenhouse store, which I think will be a very good addition to balance flow. My fan had a bad vibration when I started it for the first time, and they are sending me a replacement blade, hoping it comes Monday/Tuesday so I can prime my frame.

I dont know why you guys are so worried about WaterBorne base ! Its the only thing thats water , the Primer , Sealer & clear is still Solvent based .
I have been shooting it for over a year now , and its easier to spray really , the draw back is drying each coat before the next one is applied , as you have special AQUADRY PAINT DRYER GUN FOR WATERBORNE PAINTS , they move tons of air and evaporate the water , but you better have a super clean area as it will blow dirt everywhere or even blow your paper loose from the car ! ( AND NO YOU CAN NOT USE TAP WATER TO REDUCE !!!! )
and there is a bit different technique to spraying it but not much .
and there is NO lift cycle with waterborne , as long as ONE system is used , no swapping products here !!!!!!!

The colors are more vibrant and cleaner looking after clear has been applied .
The color matches are better then the solvent base colors because the factories have been using waterborne now for several years .

I spray color at 16 psi , and the HS Clear at 20psi out of my Iwata guns , but I will say you better have a Dedicated QUALITY WB GUN to shoot it , as it will rust anything ! OH and you can not use thinner to clean WB color as it will turn to jell-o and then you have a wonderful mess to clean ....... HA HA HA
The only thing I have found is that high humidity does make it dry / evaporate a bit slower .
Actually I am in the booth less now after switching to this product !

and its about the same price as solvent based stuff , but your prep better be spot on and you have to drop to finer grits as it can show 400 grit scratches .

I find it easier to use myself !!!

ST - it's the fear of the unknown first of all plus the change in technique that has folks bothered. I'm personally not bothered by changes - but that learning curve plus the added expense for redoing mistakes................. I vaguely recall that you noted a few problems on another forum

Your right there were a few problems , but we found out this booth has no air flow needed for WB , but that is getting fixed . I still don't like the idea of blowing each coat dry as it can give you a bit more dirt , but you just watch where your pointing the air gun

Daryl, I was wondering about the air flow thing.
When I spec'd my Blow Therm even back in '93 along with the million BTU heater on the air makeup, I had water borne in mind, though it's still not mandated up this way...............yet.

But now that I don't have the business anymore, the little painting I do is all without much airflow. Does the waterborne stuff you use work outside of a booth environ, or maybe high flow prep station?

Here in england they have what look like small hair dryers mounted on frames around the car for WB

Kind of was worried to hear they use special guns for the stuff!
Next question do you think a 30 gallon air compressor is up to the task?

Originally Posted by stovens

Next question do you think a 30 gallon air compressor is up to the task?

Depends on the gun air flow requirements(psig and capacity in SCFM) and the SCFM of the compressor at the rated flow of the gun. If you are using a Harbor Freight 'purple' 43430 gun, no. If you are using an Iwata LPH400 series, yes. DeVillbiss Finishline 3, yes. Sharp. yes

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Daryl, I was wondering about the air flow thing.
When I spec'd my Blow Therm even back in '93 along with the million BTU heater on the air makeup, I had water borne in mind, though it's still not mandated up this way...............yet.

But now that I don't have the business anymore, the little painting I do is all without much airflow. Does the waterborne stuff you use work outside of a booth environ, or maybe high flow prep station?

I have edged out parts in the shop and it takes a bit longer to blow dry WB in the open as I can not regulate the heat like I can in the booth , but it works .
I spotted in a tri-stage bumper in my garage this spring when it was around 55 deg. I used a heat gun to dry each coat , and it came out nice
Think of a puddle of water in your shop , no air movement it takes quite awhile for it to evaporate , but if you broom it around to thin the puddle and use air to dry it, it drys much faster .
You dont lay down heavy coats with this WB , lighter coats work faster .
I dont know what CFM it requires in a booth for WB , I do know they like to see a variable speed exhaust fan on a booth for WB . We are having our booth retrofitted for WB in 2 weeks , plus it will have the dryers built in the corners to help speed the drying times . Most modern booths should be able to handle WB today , but the down draft booth I use is 27 years old and out dated , plus I have just wore the poor thing out ....... LOL

The thing is with this High Solids Clear , you need quite abit of air movement to help it dry so it wont solvent pop (heat works better with air movement ) ! Its called a single visit clear , back to back spray application , no flash times , that can be tricky if your a heavy sprayer

Originally Posted by stovens

Kind of was worried to hear they use special guns for the stuff!
Next question do you think a 30 gallon air compressor is up to the task?

they all have Stainless steel parts and designed for WB . The new Iwata SuperNovas ( LS400 & WS 400 ) are SWEET SWEET Guns , but at the cost of $600 + they may not be for a once in a while gun , but damn do they lay it down !!!!!!!!!!
The LPH 400 or W400 Iwatas will spray WB , I like these guns as they are designed for lower air pressures . I would like to try the new Walcom WB gun but no one around here carries them , so I will keep all 5 of my Iwatas as they are 5 years old and get tons of use and never have failed me !!!!

Originally Posted by SprayTech

....... plus I have just wore the poor thing out ....... LOL

Knowing how you big time painters are paid that should mean no more wooden drive shafts!

Originally Posted by Bob Parmenter

Knowing how you big time painters are paid that should mean no more wooden drive shafts!

Thats funny Bob , you still remember my 4x4 red wood drive shaft , but that Ol 37 is LONG gone , Momma spent that big time painter money , so it never got finished