Thread: jacking point

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My '31 with a TCI Stage 3 IFS I have just enough room (1/2" to spare) under the '32 grille splash shield to get a little 2 ton jack and a specially made block to the front cross member. Both wheels are then raised. I haven't tried it with a flat tire, but think I have a problem. The rear - again a bit tight with the 4 bar and the '32 gas tank getting to the differential to jack. And with a flat tire - an oh s@#t.

This is the front - it's actually about 5.25" now after some coil over adjustments:

And the back before the weight of the body dropped it a bit more:


Mine's a full fendered roadster so even going under the sides takes a 'plan'

Drive it up on a couple of 2x4's or 2x6's first, that'll give ya an xtra 1 3/4 "
Then roll yer floor jack under the center of the I beam.
Get it where ya want it and put jack stands under the axle.
BTW --- Block the back tires also.
Ya never know???

Originally Posted by DA34GUY

Drive it up on a couple of 2x4's or 2x6's first, that'll give ya an xtra 1 3/4 "
Then roll yer floor jack under the center of the I beam.
Get it where ya want it and put jack stands under the axle.
BTW --- Block the back tires also.
Ya never know???

That works great - assuming you have a running car. When I did mine the first time (or three) it was to assemble the body as well as the rest of the chassis. That's how I start a tire change on my 11,000 pound 5th wheel camper to get bottle jack room under the spring plates.

I have only one jack in the shop that goes low enough to slide under my 4 inch dropped axle with 5:00 x 15 tires on the front of my 23. It is Sears racing jack and it just makes it with a rag on top to protect the paint on the axle. I too go under the very center.

Don