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Thread: More brakes
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    buzz4041's Avatar
    buzz4041 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Mar 2009
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    corpus christi
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1940 Ford Coupe
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    112

    Easy check to do is crimp the flexible line at all four corners. If pedal is hard the MC is fine. Start removing the crimp one at a time and check the pedal. If still hard continue till you find the wheel that is bad. I have corvette calipers and they have gone bad from sitting. Never had a leak either but this trick found the problem quickly.

  2. #2
    sfort's Avatar
    sfort is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Mar 2009
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    Allen
    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chevy Truck
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    528

    Thanks guys I will be trying those ideas today. Question? How does the peddle return work? Is it a function of the return springs, the booster, or both?

  3. #3
    sfort's Avatar
    sfort is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Allen
    Car Year, Make, Model: 46 Chevy Truck
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    The peddle is not hard. There is no peddle. I am in the process of putting new pads, rotors and calipers on the rear. There was a crush washer missing from the drivers side rear caliper causing a leak. I am thinking that there is something going on with the booster due to the peddle not returning. Should the booster return the peddle? Almost forgot. When adjusting the valve for the rear should I open it up all the way for bleeding and after I get brakes than tune the way I want it.
    Last edited by sfort; 05-05-2010 at 06:58 PM. Reason: add more

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