Thread: Question for the paint pros!!!

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(QUOTE) Also what type of degreaser wipe down do you
reccomend for wipe down before painting starts?
Basically I need to read a good book that explanes
some stuff to me.
I am gonna be using dura - glass filler for dings
then a good primmer scratchfiller/sealer.
Now this I don't know what kind of paint is base coat
clear coat, a urethane? And when you buy a base coat
clear coat do they come with a reducer or a hardner
and are those the same thing? Now I hear of guys
sanding the clear coats down should I do this for a
nicer look? Is there a book that can explane these
things to me. and what exactly to use for the best
looking job. I don't want a cheap clear that's going
to peel after a year. Thanks for the help. Kurt[/QUOTE]

I just use a general purpose wax and grease remover before paint, and it can also be used on 2-part primer. Once you start into color coats, as Spraytech said, an alcohol base is the way to go. I use a towel wipe that comes prepackaged, so you just pull one out and go to work.

Basecoat / clearcoat is urethane.

There are two or three theories about when to sand. After the primer is blocked out, I personally only sand if there is a problem. Otherwise I save it all for the final cut and buff stage.

Some guys will sand between colors, or interim clearcoats, then topcoat, sand, recoat, sand, then finally buff and polish.

Reducers and hardeners are not the same, and are usually purchased seperately. Some paint systems will give you different choices of each, to adjust for shop temperatures. The hardeners usually come from the same paint company, but there are also reducers made to work in most paint systems on the market, and don't necessarily have to come from the same company as the paint.

The adhesion of the clear doesn't change with price. Adhesion comes from using the right techniques, adjusting those for your situation, and timing between coats. What will happen with a cheap clear is that in a few months, to a couple years, the gloss will die.