Thread: 35 Ford Roll Cage

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first, check with the nhra rule book to make sure your car is legal. if the cage does not pass, you will be booted from the track. or atleast not be aloud to run your car. below is a link to a section of the nhra rule book with info on cages. i dont know if ihra tracks have different rules.

bob

www.nhraonline.com/contacts/tech_faq.html

The car is legal now until I run 11.49 or quicker and I think it is wise at this speed and most definitely at the car's ultimate capability to have a full cage for safety's sake. With the black interior and tinted windows the cage will almost be invisible.

Originally Posted by gypsy

The car is legal now until I run 11.49 or quicker and I think it is wise at this speed and most definitely at the car's ultimate capability to have a full cage for safety's sake. With the black interior and tinted windows the cage will almost be invisible.

It might "be legal now", but after you install a full cage you will be required to upgrade some other safety equipment (such as a window net) at the same time because they will inspect to a higher safety degree. I agree with the above suggestion, just follow the current NHRA book to the letter and you will be fine. Don't overlook installing a real race seat (like a Kirkey) at the same time as the cage.

Have fun.

Following the NHRA guidelines is not the problem, tying the cage to the framerails due to the fact that Ford placed them at the extreme outer edge of the body is. The frame to body design is not like that of a domestic car with a frame from the 60's, 70's, or 80's and the floor structure is not like a unibody car where plates can be welded to the floor.

If the car originally came as a framed car, all tubes must be welded to the frame or frame crossmember, NOT to the floor. Get a copy of the 2009 NHRA Rulebook and read General Regulations, Section 4:11, Roll Cage. Read it through thoroughly, then ask questions. I'm an SFI Silver Certified Tech Inspector, so I will be glad to smooth the way for you, but you should read the Rules first so that you know what I'm talking about. You can build the cage at home from mild steel fairly inexpensively by following the diagram shown as "FULL-BODIED CARS", 8.50 seconds and slower in Section 4:11. If you are not an expert welder though, plan to fit and tack the bars, then hire an expert with a mobile rig to come out and weld it up for you. That'll be the cheapest money you spend on the car, trust me on this. A mild steel cage can be migged or tigged. A chromoly cage can ONLY be tigged.
https://store.nhra.com/product.asp?0=230&1=267&3=180
Also read General Regulations, Sections 10:5 through 10:11.
There are many little nuances to installing a cage properly, so read up and get back to me. I went out to certify a chassis for a local racer a few years ago. If he had a nickel in the car, he had 50 thousand dollars in it. He was a novice welder and decided to weld it up himself. The welds were cold and looked like bird dookey. I had no choice but to tell him to rip it all out and start over. You cannot grind welds on a cage.

As a first time chassis builder myself, my advice is to take Techs advise. He walked me through my build and it has both NHRA & IHRA inspection stickers on it now. (7:50 Cert).
Thanks again for the help Richard.

Investing in an SFI book for your particular cage design is an invaluable tool also.