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Thread: Master power switch. Electrical GURUS needed
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    MRJB1929's Avatar
    MRJB1929 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ford 4DR, 29 Ford Coupe, 36 Chev 2dr
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    Hi Chev Malibu,
    I get your point as to what you are doing and logically it should work fine as a complete kill to the system.

    Is there a possibility for a ground bleed through the computer? I run an LT1 with a computer (actually have two cars with LT1's) and I think there is the possibility of a bleed happening. It likely won't be a problem except on the inadvertant start-up that we discussed above... but as long as you are prepared for it, it shouldn't be a problem.
    You mentioned "Splicing" into the computer but wouldn't it make more sense to ONLY suppling the ground via the Keep Alive?
    Jerome

  2. #2
    Chev malibu's Avatar
    Chev malibu is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 80 2dr malibu, 427 FFR Cobra Roadster
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    Quote Originally Posted by MRJB1929 View Post
    Hi Chev Malibu,
    You mentioned "Splicing" into the computer but wouldn't it make more sense to ONLY suppling the ground via the Keep Alive?
    Jerome
    I'm not sure exactly what you mean? Do you mean, do not wire the computer ground directly to the keep alive, but allow it to be grounded via the frame, as it is currently, or did you mean wire the ground directly from the AL91, to the switch, rather than splice into the current ground wire?

    I suppose this would be the only way that the switch would still act as a theft detterent, as the computer draw amps are so low, it wouldn't blow the keep alive fuse in a hot wire type situation. I could run a ground wire from the computer, directly to the battery side of the switch. That would maintain a circuit, even if the keep alive fuse blew.

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