Thread: c6 fitting problems

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Steve: I'm a little confused by how you described putting it together.......you weren't bolting the convertor to the flexplate THEN mounting the transmission to the convertor, were you? What you need to do is first put the input shaft into the transmission till it seats. Then put the convertor onto the input shaft and slightly elevate the front of the transmission so gravity is helping you. Turn the convertor round and round and it will start seating itself into the transmission. It will seat deeper until it finally seats all the way down in. The input shaft consists of a shaft within a shaft, so you have to get all those splines aligned for it to drop in all the way.

Sometimes you THINK it is seated all the way down, but it still is sitting one step up. That final seating will be noticeable as it drops down to the correct depth. As a check, you can measure from the engine block surface where the tranny goes to the level on the flexplate where the convertor bolts on. Then compare that dimension to what you get from the front edge of the transmission back to where the convertor is resting.

Finally, make sure your flexplate is not mounted backwards. You wouldn't be the first to do that. Some are marked out or engine side, but not all are.

My bet is that your convertor isn't fully seated down in the transmission though.

Don

Did an engine swap 302/C4 into '83 Mitsubishi pickup. Motor/trans had to go in as a unit. Got it in, mufflers and pipes all connected and mounted, fuel lines connected, cooling system ready to go. Just ready to fire it off when I turned around and spied the converter/pump driveshaft sitting on the toolbox.

Originally Posted by techinspector1

Did an engine swap 302/C4 into '83 Mitsubishi pickup. Motor/trans had to go in as a unit. Got it in, mufflers and pipes all connected and mounted, fuel lines connected, cooling system ready to go. Just ready to fire it off when I turned around and spied the converter/pump driveshaft sitting on the toolbox.

Fewer parts just make them more efficient Richard.

Don

Originally Posted by Itoldyouso

Steve: I'm a little confused by how you described putting it together.......you weren't bolting the convertor to the flexplate THEN mounting the transmission to the convertor, were you? What you need to do is first put the input shaft into the transmission till it seats. Then put the convertor onto the input shaft and slightly elevate the front of the transmission so gravity is helping you. Turn the convertor round and round and it will start seating itself into the transmission. It will seat deeper until it finally seats all the way down in. The input shaft consists of a shaft within a shaft, so you have to get all those splines aligned for it to drop in all the way.

Sometimes you THINK it is seated all the way down, but it still is sitting one step up. That final seating will be noticeable as it drops down to the correct depth. As a check, you can measure from the engine block surface where the tranny goes to the level on the flexplate where the convertor bolts on. Then compare that dimension to what you get from the front edge of the transmission back to where the convertor is resting.

Finally, make sure your flexplate is not mounted backwards. You wouldn't be the first to do that. Some are marked out or engine side, but not all are.

My bet is that your convertor isn't fully seated down in the transmission though.

Don

Don thats exactly what I did!
Kurt you were right it wasn't seated all the way back. it required alot of finese to get it all aligned. So a couple of hours later we had it all apart and back together again. I noticed when I sinced down the housing bolts and coverter I couldn't turn the engine over by hand, but it is seated all the way, and did go together easily the third time!
We next try to fit the engine in the bay, but one side mount got held up against a shock absorber mount bolt on one side. I can cut back the base of the mount to get the clearance, but I think I'll try cutting the old tranny crossmember back a bit to allow the c6 tranny to go further back into the firewall, which should also solve the problem. Clearances are very tight in front, so the farther back it goes the better! Right now the way it wants to sit, the crank pulley will hit the front crossmember. I know it will work, because the motor mounts are made for this specific application for this year truck as are the headers, so just more cutting and tweaking. Patience grasshopper!

Of course, I personally have never made a mistake like that. I also have this great bridge for sale that once resided in London.

Don

Actually I wanted to thank you all for at least getting me over that hurdle. Anyone know the torque specs for the torque conveter nuts?

If I remember correctly Steve, they should be 7/16 size and go to 55 ft lbs, I like to torque in increments. Go 20 all around, then 40, then end up at 55 all around. BTW, did you prefill the torque converter with fluid? You will want to turn the snout up and put enough fluid in there so that you can look down inside and see it at the bottom of the snout.

Don

Don it was prefilled by the guys who rebuilt the tranny. A little fluid came out we we were taking it off the tranny and reseating it, so it should be ok. It is just wierd that I could turn the engine over while sequencially tighting the bolts on the converter, but when I sinched the bolts tight and tighted the bell housing to 25lbs, it would no longer turn over. I'm fairly sure the torque converter was seated all the way down. So I'm a bit mystified as to why I can't hand crank it over now. My only thought is that something is binding against something else in there right now, not allowing it to turn properly. For engine mounting purposes it is ok for now to leave it alone until I get the thranny bracket and motor mounts aligned, but it sure would be nice to fix it now, before mounting everthing, one less thing to do!