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Thread: steering question
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    35fordcoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 35 ford 5 window coupe
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    ok so it sounds like I'll try for splined shafts assuming that when I measure things out I am within an inch or two of the lengths provided. I will plan on no vibration reducer as it sounds like this may be something engineered to sucker some people in.

    sgo70- your u joints are polished but the shafts are steel? will you just paint the shafts? I wouldn't mind avoiding polished shafts and u joints to cut costs a little on this part, but I can't find plain steel u joints on Flaming Rivers website? but I guess Borgeson does..

    Now I just need to figure out what joint I need for this Unisteer rack. It looks a little strange with three splines then a smooth concave curve then three more splines maybe I can get pics later

    thanks guys!
    Last edited by 35fordcoupe; 04-13-2009 at 09:23 AM.
    '35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO

    Robert

  2. #2
    sgo70's Avatar
    sgo70 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Funny you mention that. I painted my shafts and then the one wouldn't fit through my support bearing, so I sanded it down and put it on. Might have to brush paint it.

    Sean

  3. #3
    mopar34's Avatar
    mopar34 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ply PE sdn; 57 Olds 88 J2
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    My GM column has splined out put and my MII rack has splined input, but not the same diameters. I will likely convert over to a double D sectional one day but no plans at this time. Cost is usually no different between splined shafts or double D's. Stainless is a lot more expensive than steel for everything, shaft, u joints, supports, vibration dampers etc.

    As volksrod said the advantage of the double d is being able to cut to size. With the splined units it's like carpentry...... measure many times, cut once.

    I have seen vibration dampers in use, but I don't have one on my car and don't think I have a real need for one either. I know Borgeson has everything in steel or stainless, but I thought Flaming River did as well, but I see that they now only offer stainless and aluminum.

    Mine had Mil-Spec universals for years and never had any problems even though they are not street intended. Good enough for airplanes and drag cars, but not for street rods.
    Bob

    A good friend will come and bail you out of jail....but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying..."Damn....that was fun!

  4. #4
    35fordcoupe is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I wish I had money to just buy stainless and be done with it so I don't have to try and paint and have it not fit.

    so when cutting a splined shaft can you simply cut it off with a cut off wheel and then clean it up?


    thank you all
    '35 Ford coupe- LT1/T56, '32 Ford pickup, 70 GTO convertible, 06 GTO

    Robert

  5. #5
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Double D shafts look too agricultural for my tastes, though they do have the advantages Walt and Bob mentioned. A slight advantage to the spined shafts is you have slightly more clocking ability for alignment of the column, steering wheel setup. Most of the quality spined shafts have 2 inches of spine at each end. I buy one as close to two inches longer than needed as possible and cut off the extra from each end which minimizes the amount of exposed spine sticking out from the joints (again a cosmetic issue, but details make the difference on hand built cars). Cutting off with a cutoff saw should give you a nice even cut, just grind a slight bevel on the cut ends, makes it slide into the joints more easily. Also plan to counter sink a set point where each of the set screws hits the shaft, gives a more secure set.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

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