I need a new brake light switch!!!

Hey guys; I just built a new brake set up for my 65 Ranchero.
I built a set up like hotrod46's he got photo's on his page 5 of the thread,
I couldn't build it for $3 K either! Mine looks real close to that set up.
I would like a two wire hook up, with something I can mount so when
I take my foot off the brake it will press on the switch.
I don't like the origanal one that was on it. It was activated by the rod for the master cyclinder twisting up against the switch.
Anyone reccomend a new style switch and were to buy it from.
Thanks Kurt

I use the two wire switch that is pressure actuated and can be tee'd into the brake line anywhere.... Cleaner setup, and one less thing to mess with under the dash! I get mine at NAPA, super cheap deal, easy to install.

Hey Dave; So does the brake fluid run thru the switch?
I've removed everything from under the dash, and the dash is getting cut out after the frame is welded in. The vent in front of my front window is getting cut out too, then
new sheet metal will be put in there to close off that junk collector.
That thing just collected leaves and rotted out the vent box up under the dash.
Gonna build a new flat face dash and install all new gages in it.
Right now I can lean on the back of the car and the body does wheelies,
Maybe I should invest in some wheelie bars!!! HE! HE! HE! Thanks Kurt

The brake pressure switch looks like a small oil pressure light switch.., when the brake is applied the fluid pressure closes the contacts and turns on the brake lights... Just run a fused power lead to one terminal, then connect a wire to the other terminal and this wire goes to your tailights and the brake light element of the bulb holder... really simple and all out of the way from the other clutter under the dash.

This may be the switch referred to. I use it on our coupe. It is actually of a Ford, I think 70's models.

Larry

Well I still have not figured out how to post small pictures. I apologize.

Thanks Dave and Larry for all the good info and photo's.
You guys have a Happy Easter. Kurt

A tri five Chevy sw will work. It's a button (2 wire). When pedal is
relaxed it pushes in the shut off. It's adjustable. I welded a bracket
on the steering column brace on my Ranchero that lines up with pedal.
There might be universal ones as well.:)

I use the same switch Dave referred to on my '35 chevrolet.....it's been working perfectly for 14 years:3dSMILE: I recommend it.

I've used the hydraulic version for years in many cars - Ford used that basic switch at least until they went to the dual MC. Just get a good brand, i.e. Standard, NAPa or similar. The POS that the guy who supplied my SS brake lines was Chinese - and I trashed it and got a Standard. I thought I had an 'as installed' photo, but couldn't find one that was good enough to attach.

Dave W is right about getting a good brand. I worked for Standard for 15 yrs and they supply the switches to NAPA, BWD and others. I bought the Auto Zone one one night when there was a show the next morning early and just have not changed it but I will.
Larry

my 14 year old one is from Carquest..they sell Standard stuff also I believe.

I like these kind, no plumbing required. basicly it's what's on a 40 Chevy & other car/trucks....joe

http://s3.amazonaws.com/hubgarage/cl...wtch_thumb.jpg

TooManytoCount, By some chance do you have a photo of how that mechanical switch is mounted? The floorboard in my 'glass'29A is sloped up at a 45 degree angle where the pedal goes through and it seems I will have to mount that switch on the floorboard on the inside but that puts it where a foot on my high beam switch might mash/bend the flimsy arm on the switch?

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Just replaced the same switch on my 51 Frazer. The hardest part of changing it was getting to it. Between drivers side the framerail and the body.

Chris

Here' mine monted in my 51 F1

http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/h...ruck/027-1.jpg

dmw56,
Thanks, the picture is helpful. I was baffled by the fact that in the resting position the switch is "on", conducts. When your brake pedal is depressed that allows the switch to be "on" no matter how far the pedal goes forward. At least I understand how yours works but I have a MC under the floor so I have to think about this a bit.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

IF you buy a switch from a late model GM car with cruise control, there are two circuits, one opens on brake application and one closes. The one that opens can be used to unlock your converter and the one that closes is the brake light sw. From GM, the switch is less than $10 and is all mechanical....no hydraulics.

I have heard that the switch (pun intended) from the hydraulic-actuated style to the mechanical style is because you can actuate your brake lights earlier....as soon as the pedal is touched, the lights go on...theoretically sooner than waiting for the pressure. Of course, this allows the nimrods who left-foot brake to keep their brake lights on for miles and miles. (It's OK to left foot brake at the starting line).

Are there brake pressure switches that engage at lower pressures?

You can buy a pressure switch that engages as low as 10psi. This doesnt make the light response time significantly faster.

Another photo of the universal mechanical switch mounted on floorboard. Hope this helps.

Pat

Thanks Pat,

That is an excellent picture. The switch you show is the mirror image of the one I got from Speedway and today I looked at at least three, maybe four, similar switches in the Car Quest catalog, yours, the mirror image and two other ways the bracket faces but they are not cheap so I need to make the one I have work rather then buy all of them till I get one that fits. Then I ordered a low pressure switch from Ron Francis, but I am going back and look to see if I can mount the mechanical one I have in the way you show. That is a great picture! My hydraulic switch is in the lime already but facing down so I would need to bleed the brakes again if I put in the Ron Francis low pressure switch. To answer the question above Ron Francis does sell a low pressure switch to work with silicone fluid or just come on sooner. It is possible to put both switches on line in parallel and maybe I will do that eventually. It is hard to put a price on the help I get from this Forum, thanks again!

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don the pic Pat shows is how mine was placed & mounted...joe

Thanks Joe,

I rotated that switch around the hole every way but the obvious orientation directly across the pedal arm, partly because my 'glass floor is flush and does not have the rib Pat shows and partly because I just didn't see it! That picture really helps me but I may have to shim the mount so that the arm of the switch is straight across.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don...you're welcome sir. Glad the pic jogged your thinking a little bit. I've been there many times before trying to figure out how to do something and usually overlook the obvious. As a matter of fact, my 9 year old grandson helped me with a problem this summer!! LOL

Good Luck

Pat

Quote:

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Originally Posted by Dave Severson

I use the two wire switch that is pressure actuated and can be tee'd into the brake line anywhere.... Cleaner setup, and one less thing to mess with under the dash! I get mine at NAPA, super cheap deal, easy to install.

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While doing my search prior to installing one of these switches I found this thread . The way my plumbing is laid out it will be easiest for me to put the switch right after my MC and before the residual valve . It will be on the front brake side of MC . Will this work OK ?

Quote:

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Originally Posted by luckyfasteddie

While doing my search prior to installing one of these switches I found this thread . The way my plumbing is laid out it will be easiest for me to put the switch right after my MC and before the residual valve . It will be on the front brake side of MC . Will this work OK ?

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Yes - good as any place:D

Quote:

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Originally Posted by IC2

Yes - good as any place:D

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Thanks for the info

I just replaced my second brake light pressure switch. I had one go out right after I got the car and one went out over the winter (about 5 years later). While not a difficult thing to replace, I don't want to drive without brake lights either.

I read that too much current through the brake light switch can cause premature failure. Since I run halogen tail lights, a third brake light and sometimes pull a trailer with halogen lights and a third brake light, I figure I'm pushing the limits.

I installed a relay under the dash and connected it to fuse panel and the brake wiring. Now when I push on the brake pedal, only a small current goes through the pressure switch and it then supplies a higher current to all the lights. It wasn't hard to figure out and it's clean too. I also have another little LED light that I have in my third brake light that faces the front of the car, so I can see the light working in the rear view mirror.

One might have an issue with this setup as I've added a relay that can go bad too... but it is an easy - in the car fix, as I carry spare relays with me. It may not eliminate the pressure switch from going bad, but it could make it last longer.

Thoughts??
Jerome

Kurt, I went through two of the in line pressure switches in my T in two years. Finally had enough and replaced it with one I have used for years and years with no problems. It has been used on a lot of different Chevrolet cars over the years and has threads for most of the body, making it very adjustable. We also replaced the pressure one on my Son's T because it also failed in a year, and went to the one pictured below.

Here is a picture of it and the writeup from Advance Auto. All you have to do is build a little tab with a hole drilled in it so you can slip this switch into it. As the pedal moves it lets the button come out and activate your lights. I had the same one on my 27 for 7 years with no failures.

Don


ACDelco Stop Lamp Switch
Part No. D885 Warranty
Except CRCONT; Except POWER BRAKES; 2 DR, 4 DR, CONVERTIBLE


$8.89


Sorry for the small picture, that is all I could download from their site.:o

I mounted mine in much the same way as Pat mounted his. This is the unit I used and the link to Yogi's.

http://www.yogisinc.com/Detail.cfm/-...80/product.htm

Thanks guys for answering my question.
Though I am not sure how this got brought up again.
I'll take any good answers I get, till I get them finished.
Even though the origanal post was back some time ago.
Thanks Kurt