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Thread: Radiator clearance question
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    danyluk89 is offline Registered User Visit my Photo Gallery
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    May 2005
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    Duluth
    Car Year, Make, Model: 29 Sport Coupe
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    1

    Radiator clearance question

     



    Ok, odd question, but trust me, there is a method to my madness. I'm trying to mock-up the chassis on my '29 Model A, installing a 302 small block. I've already fabricated my own motor and transmission mounts, but haven't welded or otherwise connected them to the frame, as I want to be sure that I will have enough clearance between the water pump and the new radiator, which will have an electrical fan mounted to it. (I'd hate to weld everything up and find out after the fact that everything needs to be moved back 3 inches, if you know what I mean.) I'm not in a position right now to purchase the radiator, ($) but I'd like to keep going with the fabrication using the original radiator as a guide, if possible. Buying a 'shortie' water pump for this particular engine is also a bit cost prohibitive. So, in short, if i'm using the original radiator as a guide, (or even the front crossmember), how far back should the front of the water pump pulley be, just to be safe?

  2. #2
    mopar34's Avatar
    mopar34 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Feb 2006
    Location
    Stewartstown
    Car Year, Make, Model: 34 Ply PE sdn; 57 Olds 88 J2
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    I don't have an A so I can't tell you much about distance from the waterpump to the radiator. But since you are planning on using an electric I can tell you that the new units from Cooling Components (fan and shroud) are less than 2 3/4 inches thick. Althought not necessary it would be good to leave another 3-4 inches behind the fan to allow for clearance and maintenance to the water pump. But I suppose you could actually have less than 1 inch clearance between the two if the need would be there.

    There are several members here who have A bone's that can help you with more precise measurements.

    BTW, welcome to CHR and when you get a chance how about posting some pix of your project or any other rides you might have. We love pictures.
    Bob

    A good friend will come and bail you out of jail....but a true friend will be sitting next to you saying..."Damn....that was fun!

  3. #3
    sgo70's Avatar
    sgo70 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Calgary
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    I got a lot of my measurements from Brians framebuilding thread, check it out:

    http://www.clubhotrod.com/forums/showthread.php?t=28617

    I went with a suicide mount front end and a long pump as well. All together I left 8" from the pulley and probably could have used another inch. I have a Spal fan that is 3 3/4", rad is a twin row aluminum about 2 1/2" thick, the grill shell sticks out about 1/2" (I had to trim to fit), and I have about 3/4" clearance for my shroud. You can see how close it is in the pictures, I made sure it was all sturdy as heck, don't want it blowing back into the pulley.

    Sean
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  4. #4
    blwn31's Avatar
    blwn31 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Sep 2004
    Location
    Placerville
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford 5 Window Coupe and 69 Camaro
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    508

    The only problem I can see with not having the radiator on hand, is that depending on who's radiator you buy, the core thickness will vary from manufacturer to manufacturer. I have a Walker in my Model A Coupe and it is twice as thick as the stocker I have in my stock Tudor Sedan. So, that would change evertyhing if you guessed wrong. I would either buy or borrow to mock up. I know I"m not much help just my 2 cents.

    Keith...

    If it were cheap and easy, everyone would do it.

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