Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: My Donor Roof
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 14 of 14
  1. #1
    atichargr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bowie
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1929 Ford Model A Tudor
    Posts
    128

    Talking My Donor Roof

     



    Well I got a roof for 100.00 took about 2.5 hours and 6 wizzer wheels to seperate it from the top of the car... here are some pics of the new roof... now I am asking if there is anyone that has done this who can give me some pointers on how to go about fitting this to my car...

    http://s170.photobucket.com/albums/u...l%20A/?start=0

    thanks,
    simon

  2. #2
    OHMY34's Avatar
    OHMY34 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Decatur
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Chevy coupe 34 & 36 chevy sedan
    Posts
    119

    first thing would be getting the old insert off without hurting the body of the car. there should be a lip under the old top that the vinyl top was attached to. if it welded soild this could take a little time. did the top come off a chrysler product. jonathan

  3. #3
    atichargr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bowie
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1929 Ford Model A Tudor
    Posts
    128

    yes it came off of a dodge caravan... the insert well inserts many stips going from side to side are welded on the car.... how do I find this lip? what am I looking for ? I can see the weld around the edge where he welded the stips of sheet metal on but they are big ugly messy welds so it might be hard to determine much... also I saw a picture using the dodge caravan roof turned around with the ridges at the front of the car (ridges of course open) is there a way to cover this with the visor or something? sorry for so may questions this is my first hot rod. I am learing as I go, I just need some guidence

    thanks,
    simon

  4. #4
    OHMY34's Avatar
    OHMY34 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Decatur
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Chevy coupe 34 & 36 chevy sedan
    Posts
    119

    look on the underside of the roof, if it is welded solid or tacked in on top you have to cut or grind the welds off without hurting the body. take your time look at what youve got. start at the easiest place to get to and cut a hole an peel the top back to the edge to see what youve got to do probably a lot of cutting and grinding. more than 21/2 hours jonathan

  5. #5
    deuce4papa is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2005
    Location
    Ardmore
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Ford
    Posts
    255

    The lip OHMY34 is refering to is the metal lip that Ford used in attaching the original cloth insert into your original top. It will go completely around the perimeter of the opening. This may have already been cut away when the previous owner welded in the insert that is now in the car. You need to make several posts on forums such as Metal Meet Forums to get as much "how to" input before you start. This is going to be a major job. Plenty of welding. The location of the new opening and the fit of your new insert will have to be precise. Do you plan to do the fit up and welding yourself?

  6. #6
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    First thing is to get the old roof off and back to the original channel, if it's still there... Once the old is removed, set your new roof on and slide it back and forth checking to see where it matches the contour of the car best.

    If the original channel is still there, then I start by using some 1/8" X 1 1/2" strapsbent to the contour you want the roof to follow. I'd suggest one of these straps going from side to side place about every 18".

    Mark the new roof from the inside to get the correct opening, then make your initial cut about 3" outside of this line. I use Cleco's to get the roof installed in the same position every time I reinstall it, but self tapping screws will do the same thing. If the contour is not quite correct, some relief cuts with a sheet metal shear will make the roof easier to make match the contour.

    Slow and patient is the key... Don't make any final cuts until the contour is correct and the crown is the way you want it.

    When the final fitting is done, don't try to weld any beads, just stitch the roof into place, with welds starting about 4" apart. let the weld cool. Work the area around the weld to get the sections to match up. Take it slow, hurrying on the install will cause you nothing but grief and lots of extra labor when it's time to start finishing the surface!!!!

    You'll probably have some more specific questions as you go, don't hesitate to ask!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  7. #7
    atichargr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bowie
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1929 Ford Model A Tudor
    Posts
    128

    Yes I plan on doing the welding myself.... thanks for all the input I greatly appriciate it... so basically slowly remove the old roof looking for the lip if it is gone then what? should I start by cutting about a 1/4 inch in front of his welds towards the center of the car? and work those areas back to see if the lip is there? now I still have the wood bows installed in the car they were not taked out.. should I leave them installed as long as they don't interfere with the new roof ? I left the supports under the donor roof I did not remove them... I am going to try and do all the work on this car myself. I am Ase recertified master mechanic with my L1, master emissions repair license and my state inspection lisence .. I have been a auto mechanic for 19 years I know that body work metal work is a totally different beast , but if you don't try it how will you ever learn? everyone that has replaced a roofs on cars had to do there first one at some point... I love this car so I will definatly take my time and do it right I am a perfectionist when it comes to cars. I will keep asking questions as they arise once again I appriciate all the help you guys are giving me when my car comes out looking GREAT it will becasue of all of you if it comes out bad it will because of me!!

    thanks,
    simon

  8. #8
    OHMY34's Avatar
    OHMY34 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Decatur
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Chevy coupe 34 & 36 chevy sedan
    Posts
    119

    simon if you look underthe roof for the weld around the edge you should see the lip on the inside of the car. the lip is probably a inch to inch and ahalf wide. find a spot close tothe edge cut you a hole an just pull back enough to find out what is under the sheet metal roof. take pictures then you can go from there. if the wood bows a still in the car. they probably did not cut the lip out. jonathan

  9. #9
    J. Robinson's Avatar
    J. Robinson is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Titusville, FL
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 Ford Coupe; 32 Ford 3-window
    Posts
    1,783

    Good advice so far... When you get to the point of installing the new panel (trimmed, positioned, & fitting good), put a stitch weld about 1/4 to 3/8 inch long at the center of one side, then go directly across from it on the opposite side and put another stitch. Then do the same thing with the front and back edges; put a stitch weld in the center of each. Next, stitch each of the four corners. Then put a weld halfway between each of those, moving from side to side, front to rear. Keep putting stitch welds halfway between the previous welds, moving side to side and front to rear. This way, no area gets too much heat at any one time and warpage is avoided. Keep doing this until the insert is stitched all the way around. You can eventually end up with it welded solid if you want to go that far, but it's not necessary unless you are going to "metal finish" it and drive it around with no paint. When I do one, I usually stop when I get to the point where I have 1/4" welds separated by 1/2" spaces. Then I finish it off with Dyna glass or Tiger Hair waterproof filler.
    Jim

    Racing! - Because football, basketball, baseball, and golf require only ONE BALL!

  10. #10
    atichargr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bowie
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1929 Ford Model A Tudor
    Posts
    128

    thanks OHMY34, and J ROBINSON I appriciate the help I will do as you both suggest , it may be a little while till I get to thing since I am in the middle of planning a my wedding and the weather here is getting cold again and I don't have any heat in my garage, but as soon as I find out what is under that old roof I will take some pics and post and we can go from there... My wedding is in October and I want the ride to at least be back under a good primer by then so I can take it to my wedding..

    again thanks for the help and advice,
    simon
    Last edited by atichargr; 02-14-2009 at 01:43 PM.

  11. #11
    atichargr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bowie
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1929 Ford Model A Tudor
    Posts
    128

    Okay I looked around on the inside of the car pulled the dynomat back and in the rear of the car I can see the "lip" it has oval and round holes in it right? if this is what I am looking for it is there on the back then they have a 90 degree piece of metal ontop of it that is screwed to the wood on the back. now on the sides I don't see this lip anywhere the sides of the car just have a 90 degree bend in them where they attatch to the wood I guess that is correct? since on the sides the vinyl top would be fether down right? well the panels of the roof now are welded just on the outside edge of the side wood rails... so is this where I need to cut on the sides? I am also amazed with what can be done with a hammer and dolly, the top edge of the body of the car felt like it was in a major hail storm after a little while of knocking around from the inside and out it is almost smooth wow! there was also a small dent on the back of the car I pulled the dynamat back but the dolly on the outside reached in and gave it a few taps and wow almost perfect ... this is beging to be more and more fun each time!

    thanks,
    simon
    Last edited by atichargr; 02-14-2009 at 01:52 PM.

  12. #12
    OHMY34's Avatar
    OHMY34 is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Decatur
    Car Year, Make, Model: 32 Chevy coupe 34 & 36 chevy sedan
    Posts
    119

    antichagr I call it thepary makes you feel good when you see progress but some days it dont pay to get out of bed. now take your time and take the top off with out doing any damage to the body. i did look at your pictures and saw the dynamat, might want to try an get it off if it get hot it might not smell to good, plus if you can save it. jonathan

  13. #13
    Dave Severson is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Madison
    Car Year, Make, Model: '67 Ranchero, '57 Chevy, '82 Camaro,
    Posts
    21,160

    There ya go, Simon!!!! It's always fun, some days just a whole lot more fun then others!!!! Sounds like you're off to a great start on the new roof!!! Only 3 things to remember as you procede; patience, patience, patience!!!!!!
    Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
    Carroll Shelby

    Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!

  14. #14
    atichargr is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2008
    Location
    bowie
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1929 Ford Model A Tudor
    Posts
    128

    thanks guys, actually I ordered some parts for the welder today want to make it like new so it functions correctly since it has been sitting for 2 years.... also can I keep the wood bows etc ... if so I will order new ones to replace the old ones... let the fun begin!

    thanks,
    simon

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink