Thread: Rod Ends

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Whats the best place to buy a good quality rod ends.
For four link rearend and other stuff for rear.
Never bought these before and want a good quality
or strong that is not going to crack or strip out,
under a load.
Kurt

I get mine from Speedway Motors. They have several different grades to choose from depending on your application. Prices are reasonable, comparable to some other online places, better than some, and much better than my local bearing outlet...

Speedway is a good source... I use them too until I get into the ridiculous horsepower levels, then I go with the QA-1 top of the line rod ends, but at $40.00 ea that gets a bit spendy.....

Thanks J Robinson;
I think I seen that in your another build thread,which i've really
enjoyed reading and looking at. Since I've got you here do you use a
seamless pipe, or what. I'm gonna be building my first four link rear,
any tips on what pipe or sizes I should use? It' going on a true
Ford 9in. rear End that's already narrowed.
I know you can't put alot of heat on the axle tub or they will warp.
Thanks for your In put. Dave this motor is about 650HP. what do you
think I'll need, Thanks again. Kurt

Just a good moly end should be fine Kurt, never had problems with the one's Speedway sells...

Thanks Dave; Kurt

Kurt,
I've used different things for different purposes. The rear radius rods on my roadster are made from 3/4" black iron well pipe, but it (the car) is very light and has a 4-cylinder engine. On my coupe I built NASCAR style "truck arms" from 2 x 3 rectangular tubing and mounted them with rubber bushings at the rear end and 3/4" rod ends at the front. I believe they would handle the 650 hp with no problem...

If you are dead set on a four-bar with that kind of horsepower, I would go with a heavy-wall chrome moly tubing that you can ream and tap to fit the rod ends without doing any welding.

If you are going to the Turkey Run, you might look for some pre-fabbed four-bar systems to fit your application...

Good plan Mr. Robinson!!! I've used both the CE Magnum four bar set up (Pro Z has them on his 'maro) and the Chassis Engineering 4 bar--they're in Florida someplace with equally good results.... I build my own bars these days, but only because I have a friend who works at a laser cut shop and is constantly owing me favors!!!! (Really good trade out). If you have to go out and buy the 3/4" left and right hand taps, plus the appropriate drill bit, then cut and trim all the bracketry, plus trying to locate a source for Moly tubing locally, you could well be $$$$$ ahead with a store bought 4 bar package......

Yup, mine are 1 3/8'' - .095'' C/M tubes. C/M tube adapters are tigged & plug welded in 3 spots. The front brackets are from Art Morrison and the ones on the rear end housing are home made on the CNC.

Thanks Guy's;
I'm set on the 4 bar set up, so I can adjust it.
I know I'm not even near the HP. that you've got Pro and my car only
weights about 2000 pounds. I built ladder bars before with some seamless pipe that my buddy used to build long chopper forks. Oh course those had
little bars welded in the centers too. My worry is not that the bars will bend or brake, but more that the rod ends will pull out. I was just gonna thread the pipe, but maybe I should put inserts in like J. Robinson then weld them.
Besides I got to give my wife a good reason why I need that 10 foot old lathe
that my buddy whats to sell me for 8 hundred bucks, with all the tooling.
I think it was built in 1938 the name begins with a L, I forget.
But I had done some research on it about 6 months ago and there supposed to be really good and Hard to find. Plus it's long enough to make rifle barrows with, and that's a must for a old Army Sniper. HE! HE! HE! Kurt

I've been told the weld in adapters are stronger than just threading the tube. I don't know if that's true and if it is I don't know what makes the adapter stronger, (maybe the fact the adapters are pretty meaty in the thread area). Since the forces on the welds are tension and compression only with no lateral stress I can't imagine pulling them apart. The Art Morrison rep. told me the plug welds aren't even nes., but I did it anyway for my own peace of mind.

Thanks Pro70z28;
Maybe the material is made of better metal then the pipe is.
But that's not the first time I've herd that either.
Thanks again Kurt