Sure this has been done....but?

Printable View

Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page

11-04-2008, 08:46 PM
Stovebolter

Pat, a little off subject. But some1 asked not long ago what that motor (avatar) was and what was it going in? I love that machine. Real slick. :D

Dave G
11-04-2008, 08:54 PM
pat mccarthy

the tank i think was a 15 gallon tank i put all the way back in of the box, i made a tank for a model A put it in the middle of the car and put in two drive shaft loops the tank set in the floor just in back of the front seats and put a tunnle thru the gas tank for the drive shaft
11-04-2008, 08:58 PM
pat mccarthy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stovebolter

Pat, a little off subject. But some1 asked not long ago what that motor (avatar) was and what was it going in? I love that machine. Real slick. :D

Dave G

that car is done it in a buick T type with a 5 speed lenco it was a zz502 engine i built to a540 bbc not much let of the zz502
11-04-2008, 09:09 PM
Stovebolter

By the way. The frame has a 6 inch kick to it.

Made this up to sort of give an idea what I meant. I'll make one for what I vision yours to be like Tech, in the morning. My eyeballs keep rolling back in my head. Getting tired.

Why would the tank be dangerous in an accident? Just curious.

I appreciate all of your help. I'm taking everyones ideas into concideration.

Thanks,
Dave G

http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3009/...d6d00c89b9.jpg
11-04-2008, 09:13 PM
Stovebolter

Quote:

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

that car is done it in a buick T type with a 5 speed lenco it was a zz502 engine i built to a540 bbc not much let of the zz502

My favorite car...in my past was my Grand national. Definitely didnt have the punch that 540 has...but I sure loved teasing the college guys in thier fancy cars. Most of them didnt have a clue the car was turbo charged till I'd blown past them. :LOL: :LOL:

Very nice motor Pat.

Dave G
11-04-2008, 09:20 PM
pat mccarthy

thanks thats teds engine ted built heads and other part s for the v6 grand nationals. you would need to baffle it up it would be ok i would build it out of 3003 alum 080 thick i would angle the bottom of the tank forward to the sump
11-04-2008, 09:31 PM
Stovebolter

Quote:

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

thanks thats teds engine ted built heads and other part s for the v6 grand nationals. you would need to baffle it up it would be ok i would build it out of 3003 alum 080 thick i would angle the bottom of the tank forward to the sump

Pat....I modified the paint sketch that I posted earlier. What you think? I'll never have anything real heavy in the bed. Just luggage, coolers, maybe some grocerys from time to time. Thats the only reason I wasnt worried about setting the bed on the tank. Also...the main weight of the bed will be supported at the front and rear with 1 1/2 square tubing. I never planned on having an end gate....just a skin over the back and a removeable skin inside the rear for access to a the vent, possibly lights, and motor for retracting liscence plate....to uncover the hitch. LOL's. Yes...hitch. Thought I might pull a small fancy little trailer to the shows. More luggage space. :LOL: :LOL:

Also...bed will get covered with a hard (aluminum) flush mount bed cover...on shocks.

Thanks,
Dave G
11-04-2008, 09:32 PM
rc57

In an accident, I think any twisting or damage to the frame or bed can easily split a seam or weld on an area that large, and all of a sudden you have fuel all over your hot exhaust, hot brakes,any wiring. It may never happen, but who knows. A rear end hit would be adirect hit to the gas tank. Again, JMO but just watching out for your safety.
11-04-2008, 09:42 PM
pat mccarthy

i you think it would work but you need not to put to many baffles in if you do you may have a had time filling in up were the kick up is i would make tank follow the 45 that will help keep the gas in the sump and will add some gal s to the tank
11-04-2008, 09:42 PM
Stovebolter

Quote:

Originally Posted by rc57

In an accident, I think any twisting or damage to the frame or bed can easily split a seam or weld on an area that large, and all of a sudden you have fuel all over your hot exhaust, hot brakes,any wiring. It may never happen, but who knows. A rear end hit would be adirect hit to the gas tank. Again, JMO but just watching out for your safety.

Duely noted and appreciated. Think I could concider using the foam inside like the guys use at the track? I'm sure it wont keep all of the fuel in the tank in the event of a rupture though? I have no experience in the fuel cell stuff other than the RCI tank I had (no foam) in my prostreet 69.

Darn...thought I had this wooped! :LOL: :LOL:

:confused:

Thanks,
Dave G
11-04-2008, 09:45 PM
Stovebolter

Quote:

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

i you think it would work but you need not to put to many baffles in if you do you may have a had time filling in up were the kick up is i would make tank follow the 45 that will help keep the gas in the sump and will add some gal s to the tank

I'd like to follow the angle....going to take some thought. What do you think about using foam? Will it actually keep most of the fuel in the tank if it ruptures. I have no experience with the stuff.

Thanks,
Dave
11-04-2008, 09:48 PM
pat mccarthy

building a strong permitter frame a round the tank would help and so would makeing it out of 3003 alum 080 wall the tank i would not go all the way to the end of the frame and if so i would build a heavy wall cross bar in the frame to take i good hit
11-04-2008, 09:51 PM
pat mccarthy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stovebolter

I'd like to follow the angle....going to take some thought. What do you think about using foam? Will it actually keep most of the fuel in the tank if it ruptures. I have no experience with the stuff.

Thanks,
Dave

you can have a balder made up$$$ to and make a fuel safe you need to watch some of the foam in time will break down and would be hard to get out
11-04-2008, 10:00 PM
Stovebolter

Quote:

Originally Posted by pat mccarthy

you can have a balder made up$$$ to and make a fuel safe you need to watch some of the foam in time will break down and would be hard to get out

Thanks Pat. All of that makes good sense. The guy that is going to help me make this actually has two sheets of Aluminum .125 wall 6061. He said he'd make me a real deal on the stuff. $100 a sheet. I cant come close to that anywhere else. I feel like I'm steeling from him. I was thinking with carefully placed baffles (6-8" apart)(in a web or honeycomb design) it would help strengthen the structure too. The rear should take a heck of a lick if hit. 2X4 .134 wall square tubing. Your right....I need to extend the ends to act as a sort of bumper....since I wont have any external bumper. I checked out those bladders a while back....your right. Very pricey....might still concider it though. Think it would pass NRSA saftey?

Thanks,
Dave G
11-04-2008, 10:40 PM
pat mccarthy

Quote:

Originally Posted by Stovebolter

Thanks Pat. All of that makes good sense. The guy that is going to help me make this actually has two sheets of Aluminum .125 wall 6061. He said he'd make me a real deal on the stuff. $100 a sheet. I cant come close to that anywhere else. I feel like I'm steeling from him. I was thinking with carefully placed baffles (6-8" apart)(in a web or honeycomb design) it would help strengthen the structure too. The rear should take a heck of a lick if hit. 2X4 .134 wall square tubing. Your right....I need to extend the ends to act as a sort of bumper....since I wont have any external bumper. I checked out those bladders a while back....your right. Very pricey....might still concider it though. Think it would pass NRSA saftey?

Thanks,
Dave G

125 wall would allmost billet proof 6061 t6 would work and the price is right 6to8 is good i would say it wound pass why not??

Show 40 post(s) from this thread on one page