Thread: Rearend links- 4 link, 3 link, parellel, angled???

Tweet

That should be a nice compact rear suspension. Should look Cool.

Thanks Pro.
Question for you.

You said "I would make is to be sure the adjustment holes in the 4 link brackets are in an arch that follows the same arch the link would make if you removed the bolt though the hiem & moved it up and down from the top to bottom adjustment holes. That way when you make adjustments from one hole to the other the holes will line up without changing the link length. ''Hope that all made sense''.

I was trying to figure out exactly what arch was used on a number of other brackets I looked at. They didnt match the swing of the link.

For instance- pick a link, any link. Lets say the top link. The rear bolt is installed, say in the middle hole. Remove the forward bolt and swing the link up, hole matches, swing the link down and the hole matches. Now move the rear bolt to the bottom hole and none of the holes will line up in the forward bracket. If that makes any sense.

Does that make any sense?

Sorta' like these brackets.
Whether they line up in the real world. But the adjustment holes have a slight curve in the row.

Well it looks like that pic. post upside down.

While messing around trying to find a comfy spot for the coil over shock, I came up with this. Plenty of room there.
The bell crank drawn is a simple one for concept purposes but it seems to work great. These 2 pics show it in 2 positions. A simple link coming up off the rear end tube should work.
I can increase or decrese the ratio of shock/spring action by adjusting the holes in the bell crank. Kind of like laying the shock over at an angle.

What do you thing about this setup?

I have been messing with this all day. I think I have it.
Some fine tuning is still required, but all in all, I think it will work.
I still need to add the watts link and develop a pivot for the shock bell crank.
A couple cross members and some gussets get added next.

It seems like there is a lot going on, but I dont see how to simplify it much.
Good thing I have a pattern following flame cutter (poormans laser) and a good drill press.

Any ideas what would make a good bearing or bushing in the shock bell crank? The weight of the rear of the car is pivoting on this point and I am not sure how to bush that pivot.

And why are my pics so big? I am not doing that on purpose.

How about Johnny Joints. They were mentioned by 27tee and linked by ceh383 and would seem to be a viable mechanism to use in this application. Here are different sizes....
2" with grease zerk...
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1167
2 1/2" with grease zerk...
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1166
3" with grease zerk...
http://www.currieenterprises.com/ces...t.aspx?id=1081