Hybrid View
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08-18-2008 01:55 PM #1
Ok, very simple then. As you look at the three terminals, the middle fat one is for the positive battery cable, obviously. The one to the RIGHT of that goes to the start position on the ignition switch and when you turn it to START this one kicks the starter into action.
The little terminal on the LEFT of the fat one should have a wire going from it to the + side of the coil. The idea is, this one puts out a full 12 volts ONLY WHEN CRANKING the engine. It will supply voltage while you are trying to start the engine. Once it starts and you release the key the IGNITION post on the ignition switch takes over and a wire should be going from there, probably through a drop down resistor, then to the + side of the coil also.
Wire it that way and you should be ok. BTW, if you don't have it, pick up one of the $ 5 test lights that look like an icepick with a wire out the top. They are great for seeing if current is flowing.
Let us know if that gets it done.
Don
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08-18-2008 02:47 PM #2
Thanks Don! I will try to give that a shot today or tomorrow.
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08-25-2008 01:09 PM #3
Hi Don,
The engine fired right up. Thanks alot. I do have another question dealing with the oil pressure. While the engine was running on the first start up the oil pressure stayed between 35 and 40 while idling. The next time I started it up the oil pressure stayed at 25 while idling and went to between 35 and 40 when revved up. Is this ok?
Thanks,
Denny
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08-25-2008 02:39 PM #4
Originally Posted by Nazs
Is it a mechanical or electric gauge?? [Mechanical..more accurate] Was the engine hot the second time you started it? [engine hot..oil is thinner..hence lower oil pressure]
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08-25-2008 03:29 PM #5
It is a mechanical gauge. The engine was still warm. Temp was around 175 degrees. Is 25 psi oil pressure ok at idle? I always thought it was around 35 to 40 psi.
Denny






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