Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Electric fuel pump, or.......??
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 15 of 23

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    IC2
    IC2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    UPSTATE New York
    Posts
    4,336

    Quote Originally Posted by J. Robinson
    Well, here's my two cents worth... First, let me say I don't like aftermarket electric fuel pumps, period! I am using one on my roadster only because the Chevy S-10 engine has no place to put a mechanical pump. I am using a Mr. Gasket inline "micro electric" #12S. I don't know what it sounds like yet and I can't speak to its reliability. I picked this one because the guy at my local parts store assures me that it is a common pump available at many stores across the country. My theory is, and always has been, if I break down in Ballzitch, Arkansas on Sunday afternoon, I don't want to be stuck in a motel for days waiting for some high-zoot one-off part to be delivered.

    Having said all that, if I have a choice between using a stock type mechanical pump or an electric, I will take the mechanical pump every time. They are generally more reliable and they have the added safety feature that they stop pumping when the engine stops running.

    I once encountered a situation where the fuel line was already installed on the right (passenger) side frame rail, but an engine swap put the fuel pump on the left side. Rather than re-plumb the whole thing, I put an extension on the fuel line and ran it across the front crossmember and then back to the fuel pump on the right. I bent the line to fit the contour of the crossmember and anchored it in place beside the brake line that was already there. It was almost invisible when everything else was in place and, as far as I know, it's still there today... Anyway, there's a possibility you may not have considered.

    First of all - I agree with you about mechanical vs electric fuel pumps, which is the reason that I have the mech version on the engine now opposed to the Holley black that I originally had plumbed in place. Additionally, I can go into any parts store and for very few bucks, find a replacement SB Ford pump if I'm on the road.

    I just pulled the existing line out and am about to go to the parts store for some 3/16 "sacrificial" tubing for fit up plus order up a couple of pieces of 3/8" SS from McMaster-Carr. I have already "sacrificed" a short length of 3/8"CS tubing that I had, for a way around my roadblocks and find that with some judicious planning and the right bends along with a bracket, I appear to have room - but just barely .

    I did see that Mr Gasket 12S pump - and it looked interesting plus cheap but I did wonder how it works - micro electronics to me is saying that here's a "black box". It works, but we wont tell you how . Is it like one of those Wagner vibrator spray guns? Is it a rotary vane? A gearotor? Let us know how it works.
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  2. #2
    bentwings's Avatar
    bentwings is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2004
    Location
    St.Paul
    Car Year, Make, Model: 41 Willys pro street
    Posts
    279

    Well most of my experience comes from the diesel end. the Carter pumps generally don't do the job either on the diesel or gas. Should you go this way they are about 120 bucks for the 4601. Get the marine epoxy coated one. these are relatively quiet if used with isolators. You'll need a fuel pressure regulator.

    There is an inline Carter 5001 that is much better but still subject to failure. You still need a regulator. Diesel guys like this one.

    I have a "blue" that so far is ok. noisy but pumps. I need to get a spare however. That seemes to be the key. Also you might as well make you fuel line with a "zipper" so you can change the pump at road side inthe rain and sleet. haha. Just add a handfull of ball valves. That what the wise diesel guys do.

    You can spend $400+ on the gerotor/filter pumps and say solved. Diesel guys spend 500-600 on these and think nothing of it........still occasionally fail in the sleet and rain of course.

    Hate to live with it but that the story on electric fuel pumps.

    Stay with the mechanical on gass if at all possible.
    41 Willys 350 sbc 6-71 blower t350, 9in, 4 link
    99 Dodge ram 3500 dually 5 sp 4.10
    Cummins turbo diesel . front license plate, black smoke on demand, Muffler KIA by friendly fire (O&A Torch co) fuel pump relocated, large fuel lines. silencer ring installed in glove box, Smarty

    older than dirt

  3. #3
    robot's Avatar
    robot is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2004
    Location
    Tucson
    Car Year, Make, Model: 39 Ford Coupe, 32 Ford Roadster
    Posts
    2,334

    The last two fuel tanks we built, we used stock GM in-tank pumps...you can buy them in either low pressure or high pressure models (either throttle body injection or high pressure injection). If you buy the AC part number, they are about $42 each. We put two in each tank and wire them separately so you can swap pumps if one fails. The fuel lines from the pump have check valves to prevent back flow from one pump to the other.

    The pumps are submersed in gas so they are quiet...and run cool.

    The only downside is that you have to have a large enough access hole to get them thru...maybe a 3 inch dia hole? We have a bigger hole since we used fuel cell foam and had to have room to stuff it.

    mike in tucson

  4. #4
    IC2
    IC2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    UPSTATE New York
    Posts
    4,336

    I got my replacement SS tubing from McMaster Carr yesterday afternoon. I'm about ready to fit up my new line in an attempt to stay with the mechanical pump. I have two 90* bends with only 2" between them and are using some "gold plated" SS AN- elbows to do that. I do need to make four more fairly tight turns, but not 90's. Yes, I do have a tubing bender - mediocre quality for 3/8". My concern is kinking. I used a sacrificial piece hydraulic line and a bit thicker, and instant kink!! Others have said sand inside the tubing then the bender will work fairly well to keep the turns reasonably neat. Has anyone tried that method? This SS tubing takes too long to get to me as well as being fairly expensive to waste
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink