576LikesThread: New build thread; 48 Plymouth
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03-10-2019 08:37 AM #946
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Turned out great, nice work!Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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03-12-2019 07:01 AM #947
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Thanks, Dave. I'm hoping for a test drive this weekend.1 Corinthians 1:27
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03-12-2019 09:20 AM #948
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Around here we're hoping for a weekend without a blizzard that the daytime temps stay above freezing! Take an extra spin around the block for me, ok?
Originally Posted by falconvan
Yesterday is history, tomorrow is a mystery, Live for Today!
Carroll Shelby
Learning must be difficult for those who already know it all!!!!
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03-16-2019 02:10 PM #949
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Everything works great after a little adjustment. Just need to get the brake light switch mounted and modify the console to fit and I’m back on the road. (Again)Last edited by falconvan; 03-16-2019 at 02:12 PM.
1 Corinthians 1:27
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03-17-2019 07:12 PM #950
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Beat once again. Once everything heated up; the noise is back. Has to be in the motor. Un—-effing—-believable.����1 Corinthians 1:27
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03-17-2019 09:46 PM #951
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Crikey but that's bad news.
All that work to replace the auto and change it to manual with the associated pedals and all it entailed and it turns out the problem was not there.
I feel bad for ya mate.johnboy
Mountain man.
Some mistakes are too much fun to be made only once.
'47 Ford sedan. 350 -- 350, Jaguar irs + ifs.
'49 Morris Minor. Datsun 1500cc, 5sp manual, Marina front axle, Nissan rear axle.
'51 Ford school bus. Chev 400 ci Vortec 5 sp manual + Gearvendors 2sp, 2000 Chev lwb dually chassis and axles.
'64 A.C. Cobra replica. Ford 429, C6 auto, Torana ifs, Jaguar irs.
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03-18-2019 04:21 AM #952
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Pedals and shifter look great and I'll bet it's going to be fun to drive with a stick.
I've got nothing as far as whats causing the noise......might try a search of some of the message boards and see if anybody has run into something similar?
.I've NEVER seen a car come from the factory that couldn't be improved..... 
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03-18-2019 05:42 AM #953
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I dont know what Im going to do. Motor has to come out and i seriously doubt Its going back in after all this. Maybe I'll just cut a hole in the drivers floor and hook some pedals and a chain drive up to the rearend.1 Corinthians 1:27
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03-18-2019 06:52 PM #954
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OH NOOOOoooooooooooo..... Dang that's frustrating! So sorry to hear that news. Originally Posted by falconvan
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03-21-2019 11:12 AM #955
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Yea, it sucks. I guess the easiest thing to do is find a good running 5.3 LS and just transfer all the goodies over. At least they are cheap and plentiful. I cant imagine what noise could be coming from the back of the motor like that; maybe a cam bearing or a main bearing. Everything sure looked great when I had it apart. Only internal change I made was an LS6 cam swap.1 Corinthians 1:27
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03-21-2019 02:48 PM #956
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isn't there a sensor back there for the wheel on the crank??????By popular opinions-just a grumpy old man key board bully--But really, if you are going to ask for help on an internet site, at least answer questions about what you are asking about-----
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03-22-2019 06:37 AM #957
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Yep; you think it could be hitting something?1 Corinthians 1:27
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03-22-2019 07:04 AM #958
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reluctor wheel on crankshaftBy popular opinions-just a grumpy old man key board bully--But really, if you are going to ask for help on an internet site, at least answer questions about what you are asking about-----
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03-22-2019 10:15 AM #959
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That's a thought for sure.1 Corinthians 1:27
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03-28-2019 04:25 PM #960
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Sorry to hear that Pat! Don't get too discouraged. The manual needed to happen just because.
Ryan
1940 Ford Deluxe Tudor 354 Hemi 46RH Electric Blue w/multi-color flames, Ford 9" Residing in multiple pieces
1968 Corvette Coupe 5.9 Cummins Drag Car 11.43@130mph No stall leaving the line with 1250 rpm's and poor 2.2 60'
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I have some rams horns with the generator mount on them. I live 12 mi south of Des Moines
Crank bolt?