Thread: alternative "weather stripping " to use for fender welting???

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I am just getting ready to paint my 39 coupe next week, I have never liked the original style fender welting used on the 30's & 40's era cars. but i realize it is nessisary so that the pieces don't rub or get dirt caught in the crack. I was thinking of getting some universial weatherstripping from softseal, vintique, ect.. with adhesvie backing as wide as possible & as thin as possible. to use as fender welting; that way there would be a "seal" between the fenders & body. The seal would be flush with the edge of the fender. giving it a cleaner look than the original style fender welting. Has anyone else done this? what brand & what was the size & type? would 3/8 wide by 3/16 thick work? I was thinking when the fender is tightened on, it woulds compress it down to the correct width & make a great seal?

Not only does it eliminate metal to metal contact, it hides fender to body fit. You might want to use some masking tape to protect the two edges and do a test fit prior to deciding.

Originally Posted by hottrodd57

I am just getting ready to paint my 39 coupe next week, I have never liked the original style fender welting used on the 30's & 40's era cars. but i realize it is nessisary so that the pieces don't rub or get dirt caught in the crack. I was thinking of getting some universial weatherstripping from softseal, vintique, ect.. with adhesvie backing as wide as possible & as thin as possible. to use as fender welting; that way there would be a "seal" between the fenders & body. The seal would be flush with the edge of the fender. giving it a cleaner look than the original style fender welting. Has anyone else done this? what brand & what was the size & type? would 3/8 wide by 3/16 thick work? I was thinking when the fender is tightened on, it woulds compress it down to the correct width & make a great seal?

Hey Hottrodd, I might be interested in the same thing when I put the fenders back on my 37 Ford. I just sent an email to the streetrod guy at Softseal asking what he recommends. Will let you know what I find out....

Randy

Saw a car years ago that the builder had used brushable seam sealer between the fender and body. It stayed slightly flexible and took paint well. Said he used his finger and a ragto smooth the joint. There was no visible joint. The car was around for several years and I never noticed any cracks in the joints.

Originally Posted by 61bone

Saw a car years ago that the builder had used brushable seam sealer between the fender and body. It stayed slightly flexible and took paint well. Said he used his finger and a ragto smooth the joint. There was no visible joint. The car was around for several years and I never noticed any cracks in the joints.

Hi Bone....I don't know for sure about Hottrodd57 but as for me, I'm not trying to hide the joint, I just don't want that welting bead in the crack. Just a clean well fitted joint between the body & fender is what I'm looking for while still having the cushioning, anti-squeak protection of something between, you know? The seam sealer is an interesting thought but would be a huge pain if the fender had to come off for some reason.

I am after the exact same thing as randyr, want all the benifits of having welting installed, but want a cleaner look!!!!

A bud of mine has used felt for many years, he hates the welt look too. He gets thick stuff from the yardage store, in the same color range, you can't see it at all. I don't have a close up shot sorry..

Ive heard of using closed cell foam tape,adhesive on one side,comes in varying widths. It's use is even illustrated in this months Street Rodder. Hank

you can slip the rubber fender welting in from the back side if you fit is good. same protection without the bead showing.

Originally Posted by halftanked

Ive heard of using closed cell foam tape,adhesive on one side,comes in varying widths. It's use is even illustrated in this months Street Rodder. Hank

Thanks Hank. I have the magazine but haven't had a chance to read it yet....so far I've just looked at the pictures....LOL! I'll check it out.

Randy

A lot of years ago, it was hard to find the welting and the various stuff required, so out of need, I used naughahide(sp) seat fabric. Cut a strip twice as wide as needed, folded it over so the (leather) side was out and installed it flush with the surface. No exposed bead above the fender/bodyline, cheap and available. And as mentioned earlier, likely in a color that will match what you have. Still was there alot of years later, with no ill effects. Sniper

I bought this stuff from McMaster Carr to use on my project to prevent metal to metal contact (now I just hope it works since I really dislike the standard webbing):

p/n 76445A763 (page 3354)
Strong & Slippery UHMW Polyethylene Tape 1" Width X 5 Yards Length, .0115" Total Thickness

Provides a nonstick, low-friction surface similar to PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) tape but with higher abrasion and impact resistance. Ideal for chutes, packaging lines, slides, and anywhere high-pressure sliding contact occurs. Also eliminates squeaks and rattles caused by adjacent parts movement. Tape has a UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight) polyethylene film and 0.0015" of acrylic adhesive. Color is translucent. 0.0045" thick, 0.0065" thick, and 0.0115" thick tape has a temperature range of -40° to +225° F and includes a peel-off polyethylene liner. Temperature range for 0.0215" thick, 0.0325" thick, and 0.0615" thick tape is 0° to 120° F.
Tape— 0.0045" thick tape has a 0.003" thick film. 0.0065" thick tape has a 0.005" thick film. 0.0115" thick tape has a 0.010" thick film. 0.0215" thick tape has a 0.02" thick film. 0.0325" thick tape has a 0.03" thick film. 0.0615" thick tape has a 0.06" thick film."

Originally Posted by IC2

I bought this stuff from McMaster Carr to use on my project to prevent metal to metal contact (now I just hope it works since I really dislike the standard webbing):

p/n 76445A763 (page 3354)
Strong & Slippery UHMW Polyethylene Tape 1" Width X 5 Yards Length, .0115" Total Thickness

Provides a nonstick, low-friction surface similar to PTFE (polytetrafluoroethylene) tape but with higher abrasion and impact resistance. Ideal for chutes, packaging lines, slides, and anywhere high-pressure sliding contact occurs. Also eliminates squeaks and rattles caused by adjacent parts movement. Tape has a UHMW (ultra-high molecular weight) polyethylene film and 0.0015" of acrylic adhesive. Color is translucent. 0.0045" thick, 0.0065" thick, and 0.0115" thick tape has a temperature range of -40° to +225° F and includes a peel-off polyethylene liner. Temperature range for 0.0215" thick, 0.0325" thick, and 0.0615" thick tape is 0° to 120° F.
Tape— 0.0045" thick tape has a 0.003" thick film. 0.0065" thick tape has a 0.005" thick film. 0.0115" thick tape has a 0.010" thick film. 0.0215" thick tape has a 0.02" thick film. 0.0325" thick tape has a 0.03" thick film. 0.0615" thick tape has a 0.06" thick film."

this sounds like the stuff new oem car & truck have on high wear areas (looks like thick clear tape, I think this might be the stuff people are putting on the front edge of there hoods to kee from getting chip????

something you guys might think about is... going to your local trim shop and looking at their marine vinyl ( weather resistant,) and match it up to your paint. have them make you piping like they use for seat welting >>> you can get it in many different gauges and it works great. if the car won't see much weather ... you can even use auto vinyl.
I know it works, I make it all the time for customers building rods and vw's !

randy heard anything from softseal???