Thread: Plumbing the chassis

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Originally Posted by Don Shillady

This is a sore subject with me and it is not over yet. First, the Speedway 37 degree flare is junk, mine broke on about the fourth flare of stainless tubing. ........

For the record, John York assumed that 37 degree stainless should be doubled-flared.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder

Don,
I agree with you about the Speedway 37* flare tool - I went that way first then spent the big bucks.

SS is really not tough to work with as long as you understand what has to be done. It is a bit difficult to bend as tightly as CS as it is harder material and has some spring back. I would run, not walk away from your buddy when it comes to working with SS brake lines as he doesn't, to me, have the tools. If it's cut square, and the tool is in good shape, there should never be an asymmetric flare. The tool I show above will run the flare down to the proper size then "breakaway" so you don't over do it.

Using the tools pictured above, I made all of my connections (lots of them) and had one minor seep at the proportioning valve and one at the MC which I corrected with a bit more tightening. The system was filled about a year ago - and ten minutes ago - no new leaks.

Unfortunately auto supply shop lines come in pre cut lengths and have never been "just the right length" for any car I have ever done.