Thread: Project Special K

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Good to hear you're back at it. I feel your pain on PB. I need to take my pics off there but I have no time to be jacking with it. Haha

Ditto, What He said. Good to hear you're going to try and get back on it.

I need to get some ambition for mine... 8-(

Originally Posted by stovens

Well once again it's been awhile since I've been updating this thread.... (9/11/2019)

Steve, doesn't time fly when we're having fun, or sometimes when we're just dodging rocks in the road that life tosses at us? Now I'm not one who can criticize long time projects, having let my roadster sit for seven years or more, but like Mike mentioned in Jim Robinson's Electrathon thread I believe that if you turn off your Dream Machine for a bit and look back at your original plan it makes sense to bolt the truck together and just enjoy it as a survivor F1 that has a honkin' big engine now! Once you get it on the road you may find that it's just what you want it to be, or if not you can plan a smaller project or two and focus on gathering parts as you can, and let it fit into your schedule and your life. Just my $0.02,

I agree, and it will motivate me to clean up garage, before july Cider season starts, which I've devoted a ton of energy to since moving here in 2016. I'm in the process of started a small buisness. The last few years I've upgraded to stainless steel apple mulcher, and hydrolic press that has let me make quite a bit more each season to experiment with things light aging on light oak, vs. medium, and % of different apples blends, yeast ect.. to where 2020 really helped hone some killer ciders. This year I'll farm a few to some small mom and pop local stores and see if there is any interest. This has been my retirement plan for a while but it seems to be coming together!

OK now that its decided to get the truck back together, leave suspension alone moving forward. I fire it up once every 4-6 weeks. Every time I have to poor gas into carb maybe two dozen times to get the fuel primed in fuel line. Once started and running it idles great by when I give it gas it stalls a bit before picking up. Almost like either a vacuum leak or a secodndary is clogged? Any Thoughts? Carb is a basic 750 CFM Edelbrock with a electric choke. Other thought is small leak in fuel line that allows the line to dry out, or mechanical fuel pump dry for the starting/priming part.

Originally Posted by stovens

OK now that its decided to get the truck back together, leave suspension alone moving forward. I fire it up once every 4-6 weeks. Every time I have to poor gas into carb maybe two dozen times to get the fuel primed in fuel line. Once started and running it idles great by when I give it gas it stalls a bit before picking up. Almost like either a vacuum leak or a secodndary is clogged? Any Thoughts? Carb is a basic 750 CFM Edelbrock with a electric choke. Other thought is small leak in fuel line that allows the line to dry out, or mechanical fuel pump dry for the starting/priming part.

I'm not sure what would break the siphon from tank to pump? Maybe a faulty check valve in the fuel pump? On the stalling, that sounds to me like your accelerator pump has dried out and shrunk so you're not getting the enrichment shot to boost you from idle circuit to mid-range and it's leaning out. I'd try replacing that before investing in a complete kit - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...hoCZc8QAvD_BwE

Originally Posted by stovens

I fire it up once every 4-6 weeks. Every time I have to poor gas into carb maybe two dozen times to get the fuel primed in fuel line.

With modern fuels, 4-6 weeks will evaporate all the fuel from carb and lines. Modern fuels will permeate rubber fuel hose, and once the the fuel bowls dry up the floats drop opening the fuel line and allowing faster evaporation.

Originally Posted by stovens

Once started and running it idles great by when I give it gas it stalls a bit before picking up. Almost like either a vacuum leak or a secodndary is clogged? Any Thoughts?

I agree with Rodger, this acts like a accelerator pump issue. Remember, modern fuels are hard on the rubber products in the carb and fuel line.

Originally Posted by stovens

Carb is a basic 750 CFM Edelbrock with a electric choke. Other thought is small leak in fuel line that allows the line to dry out, or mechanical fuel pump dry for the starting/priming part.

I would start it more often. If you have an electric fuel pump you should be able to let the pump run to supply fuel to the carb. If it’s a mechanical pump, I would add a little pressure to the tank at the fuel cap to help push the fuel through the line as you crank it.

Thanks for the tips. I went outside and the truck fired right up so I shut it off and came back inside. Started thinking I should have floored the petal and see if it still stalled. So back out, and the truck acted like it was getting no gas again. So to quickly diagnose if it is a fuel clog or lack of flow I disconnected the hose to carb inlet, and gas came poring out. So I then rigged a small hose vertically and sprayed seafoam into it and let it fill the hose when drained rapidly, it was then that I noticed the vacuum port on the intake that connects to the C6 transmission looked like it was slipping off its fitting. I pulled it off, and saw the base of the vacuum hose was splitting, so I cut it back to a solid part and re-clamped it on, reconnected the fuel line and boom truck started instantly. If I pressed down slowly on the pedal, it accelerates fine but with a quicker push of the pedal the stall happens just no as bad so could be a combo of the vacuum leak and the accelerator pump but not as bad as yesterday. I'm thinking that the jets might be partially plugged and also the accelerator pump assembly is another root problem worth replacing first not to mention probably need to but new fuel and vacuum lines! Thanks so much for your help. Glad to know the open vacuum to the manifold was the root cause for "priming the carb" issue. not sure why after 15-20 primes it starts to run fine but works great now. Thanks

Vacuum leak makes it lean, pouring gas in makes it rich. When it's cold it needs a richer mixture, when warm leaner.

Once or twice a year I pull the idle mixture screws and blow carb cleaner through them up and out the air bleeds in the boosters, followed with compressed air, it can do wonders. Every other year I pull my carbs apart and clean them out completely, this gets the small passages throughout the carb for fuel and air, put back together with new gaskets and accelerator pump. Keeps em purring...

Ever heard an Old Timer talk of "Boiling a Carb Out" before putting a kit in it? Probably 40 years back I was picking up a carb kit for a Dodge I had, and the ol' boy on the parts counter asked if I was going to boil it out? I responded that I'd heard the term, but the only thing I'd seen was the 5 gallon can of GUNK Carb Cleaner with the submerged wire basket to hold a carb, ideally disassembled, to soak over night but I couldn't swing that expense. He then explained that I should take the carb off and make sure to remove any plastic and rubber parts, and take the top off. Then get a big pot, like a Dutch oven or Spaghetti pot and cover the carb parts with water, put it on the stove and bring it to a boil. Once boiling add a cup of laundry soap and keep it at a rolling boil. As the suds diminish and the rolling boil takes on color add another cup of laundry soap, and continue the process until it maintains the boil with some suds showing. At that point turn off the heat and let it cool a bit, then dump & rinse.

Now I was still a single Dad the last time I did this, but I've got to say that carburetor looked factory fresh and couldn't have been any cleaner! I can't say the same for the kitchen, as the aroma there wasn't particularly fresh, but with all the windows open.... And that Dutch oven pot? It was really clean, too!! Oh, for the good ol' days! Boilin' out a carb in the kitchen, using the dishwasher to degrease parts.....

Old days HE--! I still do it!! LOL

As far as I'm concerned this type of pump is the best you can you, IMHO, rubber ones are junk.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EDELBROCK-C...IAAOSwW69e63Mp

Not sure what the original pump measurements are or if it will fit the 1407, 1411 Edelbrock carb series but believe it will. I will write the seller to be sure but the fack that it's made for ethanol modern day fuels makes it worth finding out!

Originally Posted by stovens

Not sure what the original pump measurements are or if it will fit the 1407, 1411 Edelbrock carb series but believe it will. I will write the seller to be sure but the fack that it's made for ethanol modern day fuels makes it worth finding out!

All eddys are nothing more than old Carter AFB's. Saying that they are easy to tune is so much BS. Other than accelerator pump travel ALL other adjustment require removing the air horn. Float adjustments, drop and height, are a pain at best. Then comes metering rod size which is confusing at best. The only advantage with a Carte/ Eddy is the fact that the jets can be drilled out without affecting flow which is the case with a Holley. The accelerator pumps are the same size as when they were first introduced by Carter. Originally they came with leather pumps until they decided rubber was cheaper.
As you can see I'm not a big fan of Carter/eddy carbs. I played with many, including the old WCFB's, in the 60's and 70's until I wised up and went with Holleys. I will admit that they look better as two fours such as Mike P has on one of his Hemis.

IMHO, there is nothing wrong with Edelbrock (aka Carter/Weber) carbs. They perform fine, they do the job just as well as any carb does. They tune differently than Hollies and this is where the bad press comes from. Holley uses a power valve for fuel enrichment under load, Edelbrock uses meter rods. Both methods serve their purpose and provide fuel enrichment under load conditions. However they tune differently, and this is where the confusion and trouble comes from.

Most of us do not take the time to fully understand the functions and operations of a carb, let alone two different designs. Hollies are more forgiving in some areas, while Edelbrock are in other areas (function & tuning). I've used both designs on numerous vehicles and like them both. The caveat with either design is tuning. A carb is a mechanical device the meters fuel into the engine via linkages and vacuum (manifold and venturi), for it to function and give the best performance it must be tuned to operate within its perimeter to the engine it is installed on. Remember the guy you went to school with that always had the faster car? Even when someone else had the same make and model his was faster. SECRET, he knew how to tune.

"Stovens" back to your question about accelerator pump fitting.

Edelbrock uses two different pumps, the only difference is the spring, a weaker spring is used on the smaller carbs, a stonger spring on the larger carbs. Length and diameter are the same, adjustments are made to the linkage arm to tune the pumps operation (three holes), but also the linkage rod can be bent at the knee to further adjust the pumps action. And, keep in mind the two spring tensions can be used to aid in tune as well. The weaker spring will produce a lazier but longer duration of fuel (slower/longer squirt), the stronger spring will be quicker with less duration (sooner/shorter squirt).

BUT, before we get into pump tuning, let's make sure there isn't another tuning issue first. Believe it or not, a lot of carb issue are caused by the ignition. Low initial timing can cause the carb's throttle stop to be adjusted too high (idle speed adjustment) to raise idle RPM, when this happens the carb is operating partially through the transition circuit and when you accelerate there is insufficient fuel enrichment to prevent a lean stumble. The solution is to raise initial timing and lower the throttle stop adjustment. More initial time will raise the idle speed allowing the carb’s throttle stop to be lowered and operate on the idle circuit (mixture screws), then as the throttle picks up the transition circuit adds fuel along with the accelerator pump, enriching the fuel mixture and preventing a lean stumble.

The caveat with ignition timing is, when you adjust initial timing (up or down) TOTAL timing must be checked and adjusted if needed.

Sorry for the book……….