At 6'0" I find very few head rests which would protect me adequately.
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At 6'0" I find very few head rests which would protect me adequately.
I'm also 6 feet.
I'm so glad you weren't hurt or worse in the accident. That is nuts the van that hit you made t far enough to get away. Hopefully karma catches up with them!
UPDATE
After almost 2.5 years post divorce, and relocation to new house, things are finally looking like the truck can be focused on. I finally got a local guy who is and auto mechanic, but does welding as his true passion, to check out the frame issue on my truck. This guy has his own mobile welding business and we were able to connect yesterday. He came over to the house last night and took a look at the major cut out which my muffler exhaust guy notched out of the frame to get clearance for the exhaust system. On the bright side I've had years to come up with structural patch ideas that allow exhaust to still fit, but should add strength back to the frankenstein notch! Here is a picture showing why, I've not done a thing getting the front back on my truck for too many years!
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...psiu6dftl4.jpg
That is great news Steve! Getting back to work on the truck is definitely a milestone that I'm certain you're happy to see.
Yep. the truck has always taken back seat to whatever is a immediate concern. I think I'm at a place to focus on it now. The irony is I have a years worth of parts to be installed, just waiting to get front clip back on before proceeding!
I was taught to live in my means, so the truck is like an exotic vacation in that you dream about the day you can take it!
I've got new glass and window gaskets, new running boards, gauges, wiring harness, etc...., but all waiting to get the front frame secure before going back into the truck.
It will also be nice to get the body pieces out of the attic, rafters, shelves and floor of my small garage.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps128xswk9.jpg
We all have to live within a budget, and you've been here long enough to know what it takes and the steps to get through the build. So just focus on the step in front of you and you'll be surprised how fast it all comes together..
Of course we'll be whining if we don't get a good quota of pics along the way! :LOL::LOL:
I'm sure you are excited to have it in your to do list now a days. You can look at it this way too... At least you were able to keep it through all of it and you have a good place to keep it. You've made good progress on that front for sure. I'm excited for ya!
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It .right be time to inventory. I'll bet you have stuff you don't even remember!
Yup Once the parts start going on I have room to get to the shelves that hold all the boxes of body parts, new window rubber, gauges, electronics, trim, hinges, and most importantly old body parts to the hood latch mechanism, which I took copious pictures of while I was disassembling, since there are no good diagrams to show how they all fit together and go back in! Some things I know I've bought multiple sets of over the years because I couldn't find the parts when I needed them, so inventory is an excellent idea, as well as repackaging with easy to read labels! One of the first things for the interior is to coat the sheet metal floor panels with anti-rust/rust converter Por-15 paint, they start bundling all the loose wiring and permanently routing them in a professional way(which I will have to study up on!)
Finally something to update about! Frame welder came yesterday did a very nice structural patch wgere the exhaust gy=uy notched the frame. He was here for three and a half hours yesterday, and did a nice engineered weld to the cut out area. Today i was able to top coat the welded area with Por-!5 over fresh metal and weld areas, and then reattach the header loosely while the paint cures.
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...pscdbehh5j.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...ps2dikckh0.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...psqlrvyyyx.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...psxfrcxkle.jpg
http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/c...psxo0bmsjx.jpg
Shame the "exhaust guys" hacked it up like they did, but it is all better now and you're ready for some progress I'll bet. 8-)
there was already a notch by a previous owner there to clear an old exhaust system, the muffler guy just added to it! In a big way! :)
Anyway it is good I did this because I also found a exhaust manifold gasket under the headers which I specifically didn't install because Sanderson's is quite specific about this is their instructions instead you are suppose to install the header with a 1/8"-1/4" bead of black RTV silicone. I looked on the drivers side and yup no gasket, so I'm guessing when Kelley chopped the frame he must of had to take header off and then just automatically put a gasket on not knowing sanderson's thing. So after cleaning off both surfaces I got a new bead of rtv on and let it set 24 hours per instructions, which allowed me to paint por-15 over the exposed metal on the frame.Also time to remember I need to add washers or spacers to the engine mounts to get read of the free space between the sides of the mount where the thru bolt goes. I also decided to make a build binder with all the loose papers, amd part numbers for anything not stock for reference down the line vs. loose piles everywhere!
Yep, keeping track of all those random part numbers is an excellent idea. It saves hours of time and aggravation down the road.
I'm sure it feels good to have that fixed! Does sanderson say to use a high temp gasket maker? Or maybe a copper based one?
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High temp which they have rebranded to Ultra Black maximum oil resistance same part number 82180. Turns out all silicone has the same heat range according to my welder, he says they use high heat to increase price, but all is the same, maybe thats why permatex took that name off. I spent quite a bit of time researching this! Everywhere that sells Ultra Black now if they have new stock, it doesn't say high heat. Pretty confusing!
Quick up date after reinstalling the header, I found there was no way to tighten the lower connect flange bolt to the back of the header, now that the weld patch is in place without triming some overlaping excess metal (not structural) just sticking out past the new boxed in patch. So off with the header again(Sounds like Alice in Wonderland!) I need to crawl under the truck today to see if this will work before any metal trimming takes place. Right now there is no clearance for getting a good bight on the nut or bolt! I can also put a new gasket in while I'm at it! Measure once cut a million times, whoops thats measure twice cut once ;)
If you only need a CH... um.. a little hair of room a BFH, that's a Big F_ _ _'n Hammer can sometimes sneak out just enough space to get the socket or wrench onto the fastener.
But you knew that already, didn't you? :LOL::LOL::LOL:
:confused:Well once again it's been awhile since I've been updating this thread. Recently I was able to trim just enough metal from my frame patch to finally access the lower header collector bolt that was no longer accessible after the frame welding last year. This was a tedious project due to only being able to get a small hand wrench on either the nut or bolt and turning it less than one 1/16 of a turn at a time. But after about an hour I was able to get the lose nut off and trim some non structural metal back enough to be able to tighten this connection and add some high temp black silicone gasget material for added insurance against leaks. With the header back on for the last time, I now will be able to start bolting all of the front inner panels, fender supports, running boards, front hood and grill assemblies etc...! I keep the engine alive, starting it and running it every few months. so that is not a problem. I have been finishing up endless other projects, and want to start on organizing and cleaning up my garage so I can actually find stuff again. 3.5 years after my divorce and rapid move into this place, which left no time to organize, I want to get back at it. Lastly I am downsizing my collective junk, which should pay roll project stuff like the truck.
The hardest thing is posting pics, due to photobucket, wanting money, 10 years after providing a free storage site, to the tune of $6.99 a month. Will have to think about that one and search for alternatives!:confused:
Good to hear you're back at it. I feel your pain on PB. I need to take my pics off there but I have no time to be jacking with it. Haha
Ditto, What He said. Good to hear you're going to try and get back on it.
I need to get some ambition for mine... 8-(
Steve, doesn't time fly when we're having fun, or sometimes when we're just dodging rocks in the road that life tosses at us? Now I'm not one who can criticize long time projects, having let my roadster sit for seven years or more, but like Mike mentioned in Jim Robinson's Electrathon thread I believe that if you turn off your Dream Machine for a bit and look back at your original plan it makes sense to bolt the truck together and just enjoy it as a survivor F1 that has a honkin' big engine now! Once you get it on the road you may find that it's just what you want it to be, or if not you can plan a smaller project or two and focus on gathering parts as you can, and let it fit into your schedule and your life. Just my $0.02,Quote:
Originally Posted by stovens
I agree, and it will motivate me to clean up garage, before july Cider season starts, which I've devoted a ton of energy to since moving here in 2016. I'm in the process of started a small buisness. The last few years I've upgraded to stainless steel apple mulcher, and hydrolic press that has let me make quite a bit more each season to experiment with things light aging on light oak, vs. medium, and % of different apples blends, yeast ect.. to where 2020 really helped hone some killer ciders. This year I'll farm a few to some small mom and pop local stores and see if there is any interest. This has been my retirement plan for a while but it seems to be coming together!
OK now that its decided to get the truck back together, leave suspension alone moving forward. I fire it up once every 4-6 weeks. Every time I have to poor gas into carb maybe two dozen times to get the fuel primed in fuel line. Once started and running it idles great by when I give it gas it stalls a bit before picking up. Almost like either a vacuum leak or a secodndary is clogged? Any Thoughts? Carb is a basic 750 CFM Edelbrock with a electric choke. Other thought is small leak in fuel line that allows the line to dry out, or mechanical fuel pump dry for the starting/priming part.
I'm not sure what would break the siphon from tank to pump? Maybe a faulty check valve in the fuel pump? On the stalling, that sounds to me like your accelerator pump has dried out and shrunk so you're not getting the enrichment shot to boost you from idle circuit to mid-range and it's leaning out. I'd try replacing that before investing in a complete kit - https://www.summitracing.com/parts/e...hoCZc8QAvD_BwE
With modern fuels, 4-6 weeks will evaporate all the fuel from carb and lines. Modern fuels will permeate rubber fuel hose, and once the the fuel bowls dry up the floats drop opening the fuel line and allowing faster evaporation.
I agree with Rodger, this acts like a accelerator pump issue. Remember, modern fuels are hard on the rubber products in the carb and fuel line.
I would start it more often. If you have an electric fuel pump you should be able to let the pump run to supply fuel to the carb. If it’s a mechanical pump, I would add a little pressure to the tank at the fuel cap to help push the fuel through the line as you crank it.
Thanks for the tips. I went outside and the truck fired right up so I shut it off and came back inside. Started thinking I should have floored the petal and see if it still stalled. So back out, and the truck acted like it was getting no gas again. So to quickly diagnose if it is a fuel clog or lack of flow I disconnected the hose to carb inlet, and gas came poring out. So I then rigged a small hose vertically and sprayed seafoam into it and let it fill the hose when drained rapidly, it was then that I noticed the vacuum port on the intake that connects to the C6 transmission looked like it was slipping off its fitting. I pulled it off, and saw the base of the vacuum hose was splitting, so I cut it back to a solid part and re-clamped it on, reconnected the fuel line and boom truck started instantly. If I pressed down slowly on the pedal, it accelerates fine but with a quicker push of the pedal the stall happens just no as bad so could be a combo of the vacuum leak and the accelerator pump but not as bad as yesterday. I'm thinking that the jets might be partially plugged and also the accelerator pump assembly is another root problem worth replacing first not to mention probably need to but new fuel and vacuum lines! Thanks so much for your help. Glad to know the open vacuum to the manifold was the root cause for "priming the carb" issue. not sure why after 15-20 primes it starts to run fine but works great now. Thanks
Vacuum leak makes it lean, pouring gas in makes it rich. When it's cold it needs a richer mixture, when warm leaner.
Once or twice a year I pull the idle mixture screws and blow carb cleaner through them up and out the air bleeds in the boosters, followed with compressed air, it can do wonders. Every other year I pull my carbs apart and clean them out completely, this gets the small passages throughout the carb for fuel and air, put back together with new gaskets and accelerator pump. Keeps em purring...
Ever heard an Old Timer talk of "Boiling a Carb Out" before putting a kit in it? Probably 40 years back I was picking up a carb kit for a Dodge I had, and the ol' boy on the parts counter asked if I was going to boil it out? I responded that I'd heard the term, but the only thing I'd seen was the 5 gallon can of GUNK Carb Cleaner with the submerged wire basket to hold a carb, ideally disassembled, to soak over night but I couldn't swing that expense. He then explained that I should take the carb off and make sure to remove any plastic and rubber parts, and take the top off. Then get a big pot, like a Dutch oven or Spaghetti pot and cover the carb parts with water, put it on the stove and bring it to a boil. Once boiling add a cup of laundry soap and keep it at a rolling boil. As the suds diminish and the rolling boil takes on color add another cup of laundry soap, and continue the process until it maintains the boil with some suds showing. At that point turn off the heat and let it cool a bit, then dump & rinse.
Now I was still a single Dad the last time I did this, but I've got to say that carburetor looked factory fresh and couldn't have been any cleaner! I can't say the same for the kitchen, as the aroma there wasn't particularly fresh, but with all the windows open.... And that Dutch oven pot? It was really clean, too!! Oh, for the good ol' days! Boilin' out a carb in the kitchen, using the dishwasher to degrease parts.....
Old days HE--! I still do it!! LOL
As far as I'm concerned this type of pump is the best you can you, IMHO, rubber ones are junk.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/EDELBROCK-C...IAAOSwW69e63Mp
Not sure what the original pump measurements are or if it will fit the 1407, 1411 Edelbrock carb series but believe it will. I will write the seller to be sure but the fack that it's made for ethanol modern day fuels makes it worth finding out!
All eddys are nothing more than old Carter AFB's. Saying that they are easy to tune is so much BS. Other than accelerator pump travel ALL other adjustment require removing the air horn. Float adjustments, drop and height, are a pain at best. Then comes metering rod size which is confusing at best. The only advantage with a Carte/ Eddy is the fact that the jets can be drilled out without affecting flow which is the case with a Holley. The accelerator pumps are the same size as when they were first introduced by Carter. Originally they came with leather pumps until they decided rubber was cheaper.
As you can see I'm not a big fan of Carter/eddy carbs. I played with many, including the old WCFB's, in the 60's and 70's until I wised up and went with Holleys. I will admit that they look better as two fours such as Mike P has on one of his Hemis.
IMHO, there is nothing wrong with Edelbrock (aka Carter/Weber) carbs. They perform fine, they do the job just as well as any carb does. They tune differently than Hollies and this is where the bad press comes from. Holley uses a power valve for fuel enrichment under load, Edelbrock uses meter rods. Both methods serve their purpose and provide fuel enrichment under load conditions. However they tune differently, and this is where the confusion and trouble comes from.
Most of us do not take the time to fully understand the functions and operations of a carb, let alone two different designs. Hollies are more forgiving in some areas, while Edelbrock are in other areas (function & tuning). I've used both designs on numerous vehicles and like them both. The caveat with either design is tuning. A carb is a mechanical device the meters fuel into the engine via linkages and vacuum (manifold and venturi), for it to function and give the best performance it must be tuned to operate within its perimeter to the engine it is installed on. Remember the guy you went to school with that always had the faster car? Even when someone else had the same make and model his was faster. SECRET, he knew how to tune.
"Stovens" back to your question about accelerator pump fitting.
Edelbrock uses two different pumps, the only difference is the spring, a weaker spring is used on the smaller carbs, a stonger spring on the larger carbs. Length and diameter are the same, adjustments are made to the linkage arm to tune the pumps operation (three holes), but also the linkage rod can be bent at the knee to further adjust the pumps action. And, keep in mind the two spring tensions can be used to aid in tune as well. The weaker spring will produce a lazier but longer duration of fuel (slower/longer squirt), the stronger spring will be quicker with less duration (sooner/shorter squirt).
BUT, before we get into pump tuning, let's make sure there isn't another tuning issue first. Believe it or not, a lot of carb issue are caused by the ignition. Low initial timing can cause the carb's throttle stop to be adjusted too high (idle speed adjustment) to raise idle RPM, when this happens the carb is operating partially through the transition circuit and when you accelerate there is insufficient fuel enrichment to prevent a lean stumble. The solution is to raise initial timing and lower the throttle stop adjustment. More initial time will raise the idle speed allowing the carb’s throttle stop to be lowered and operate on the idle circuit (mixture screws), then as the throttle picks up the transition circuit adds fuel along with the accelerator pump, enriching the fuel mixture and preventing a lean stumble.
The caveat with ignition timing is, when you adjust initial timing (up or down) TOTAL timing must be checked and adjusted if needed.
Sorry for the book……….
We'll agree to disagree. AFB"s, IMHO, are fine as long as you don't have to open it up.
In 64 while I was in the Marine Corps a good buddy stuffed a Caddy 331 in a 57 Del Ray and he was having a devil of a time trying to get it to run right. It had a Carter AFB that was all messed up. another good buddy who was somewhat of a carb guru at the time spent an hour or so trying to get the floats adjusted. It was a lot of trail and error but he finally had it running fairly well. later I ran him with my coupe, 36 5 window running a 301 with 2-4's and smoked him pretty bad.
Moral of the story: with a Holley all that would have need to be done was open the sight glass on the front fuel bowl and adjust from the screw on top, 5 to 10 minutes tops.
Ken, I agree and I’m not trying to argue, but as I said, some areas of each carb’s design are easier on one than the other, and visa versa.
IMHO, Carter/Weber/ Edelbrock has a very specific adjustment for float height and drop, get it off and your troubles begin. Set the floats too high and the gas spills through the bowl vents flooding (bowl vent are low in the horn on this design), set the floats too low the jets are starved (I forgot to mention pressure differences in the operating aspects). Set the float drop too low and the gas doesn’t cover the jets fast enough to prevent them from pulling air, set the drop too high and the needle doesn’t open enough to fill the bowls fast enough to keep up. It’s a quirk to the design.
However, small jet changes and power enrichment is a breeze on the Edelbrock design. Simply change the rods to lean or richen the mixtures, yes mixtures, both main jetting and enrichment can be adjusted by the rods. And, simply change the rod springs to bring power enrichment in sooner or later. Two screws and a few minutes is all it takes, no gas spills, no gaskets. Holley’s, not so easy, you have to drain and pull the bowls to change jets and remove the metering block to change a power valve.
Agree there’s more aftermarket tuning support for the Holley design, and in most cases it is better suited to racing. I guess what I failed mention in my earlier post is both designs have there pros and cons, so it’s usually boils down to an individuals preference and knowledge.
IMHO both designs have their merits, and the bottom line to either is tuning, tuning will give you more horse power and reliability than you ever expected.
true enough. both designs have good and bad built in. Myself, I'm a holley guy. Just found them easier and less fussy.
Like Ken I grew up with WCFB's, but I didn't find setting the floats to be difficult as long as you had the gauges in the rebuild kit and followed directions, or at least followed directions. Now if you pulled the top and decided to adjust by the seat of your pants? I can see that being a bit frustrating, but why would you do that?
I agree with Bob, it's a matter of personal preference, but I'd say more important is the individuals knowledge and understanding. For me? If I have a problem I'm going to go visit Bob/36 sedan ;):):D