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10-17-2007 12:50 PM #1
Had a buddy wh owned a stripping/dipping biz here in Tacoma area.......as I remember from helping him some days........if it is a car you dont expect to keep very long......dip it. The main problem we ran into, is nomatter how well you thought you cleaned to solution out, you always had some that hid behind the welds, braces etc...........so unless you dipped it in a tank of etching primer with electrodes on body....forget about getting all solution out........then the rust comes back in those spots.
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11-01-2007 09:16 PM #2
Thanks for all your input, it is a big help.
This is what I am doing.
I used 3M scotchbrite wheels on a die grinder and took almost all the rust off. No way to get in between welds and into closed areas, but I got all the exposed rust, inside and out of the body. 4 days with the compressor running constant. I am pretty happy with the results and very happy with the condition of the body. I know every inch of it now and have started the body work.
At some point soon I will be using one of the phosporic acid metal converters on every surface. With a tricky little spray hose I am going to get as much of the hidden areas as I can and then call it good.
Then I will prime it with an epoxy primer and that should be an excelent, not perfect, but an excelent base for a decent paint job (or at least primer) for several years.
Any recommendations on the rust converters?
The picture of the louvers shows one done and the other in its original "30 years in a backyard" patina.






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I'm happy to see it back up, sure hope it lasts.
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