Thread: need some help!!! best way to route the battery cables from trunk ????????

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I have a 39 chevy coupe & will be mounting the battery in the trunk, and I have a couple of questions on which way would be best to route the battery cables.......

1. should I drill a hole thur the floor next to the battery, & run the cables to the starter and block(to ground) from the underside of the car, attaching the cables to the frame rail, which also has the gas line mounted to it???? if so, what type of clips or mounting brackets would the best way to secure the cables to the frame rail, how danagerous will it be having the positive cable running next to the gas line?

2. Or should I run the cables on the inside of the car; on the floor. Running the cables from the battery up to the front of the car, then drill a couple of holes thru the floor to drop the cables thru to attach to the starter & the to the block. ( *this would be my choice, if there would be no problem doing it this way*)

want some of your advice & expierence from you guys. do you have any better suggestions on routing the cables from a remote mounted battery in the trunk????

*****just incase anyone is wondering why I didn't mount the battery under the front fender on the frame, it is becuase I have custom over the frasme heders.
thanks for any suggestions or advise.............. hoping to have the car on the road for the nats in 2 weeks!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

The way I have done it is to go through the trunk (grommeted hole) along the frame rail to the starter, attached to the frame about every 18" with a rubber lined cable clamp, this is only for the pos cable, the neg cable is bolted to the frame under the trunk and another cable bolted to the frame (beside your chosen ground location) and then fastened to that location.

I would use 1/0 cable, and do it as Viking said. The ground he mentioned should go from the frame to the engine block, preferably to the starter or the bell housing near the starter. Just for a backup, I like to use a second braided ground strap from the tranny to the frame.

An alternative would be to run both the pos and neg cables right to the starter, and still use a ground strap from engine to frame.

Also, very important, use something like a braided ground strap between the frame and body. Lots of electrical problems can be traced to a poor ground between those two points.

Don

I concur with what has been said, except for one thing. Cable as large as 1/0 is not very flexible and therefore it is hard to keep a tight connection at the starter. I would run 1/0 to a location on the frame close to the starter and terminate on an aircraft grade terminal strip. From the terminal strip I would run 6 or 4 gauge to the starter the length of which not to exceed 18 inches.

I put the starter solenoid in the trunk too, beside the battery. Run a cable from it to the starter, as short as practical. Best cranking speed like that, and the big cable is only live when cranking. A smaller wire to run everything else can be routed inside, out of harm's way. Run the ground cable to the engine, too. Less connections means less chance of a bad one. Use the best grommets you can find where the cable goes through the floor, or better yet, bulkhead terminals.
Do NOT just run the cable under the rug and beneath the seats! I set my old Mustang right on fire with a setup like that, in my more foolish days. A big chick in the back seat made for a hotter time than I'd been hoping for!

A steel frame isn't the best conductor of electricity, although it will work. I ran my cables through the floor (grommet w/ silicone sealer) and along the frame under the car. They're held in place with rubber-insulated clips every couple of feet.

The positive goes directly to the starter.

I ran my ground to a stud on the frame, then from the frame stud to the engine block. I also installed a ground jumper from a transmission bolt to the frame, and from the engine block to the frame. Redundant, maybe, but a good ground is an absolute necessity.

S/O cable is very flexible,maybe more than welding lead.

I've always used Ancor marine grade cable primarily because I worked in the industry, and also because it is super high quality. Every strand is tinned individually making it very corrosion resistant. I also use their terminal ends for the same reason, and use shrink tubing over the cut ends to seal them further.

Don

Originally Posted by R Pope

Do NOT just run the cable under the rug and beneath the seats! I set my old Mustang right on fire with a setup like that, in my more foolish days. A big chick in the back seat made for a hotter time than I'd been hoping for!

Always knew them fat chicks were dangerous!!!!

Also, if you're going for some racing action, put the battery on the right side of the car in the rear.

Like Don, I buy the expensive marine cable....costs more, but I've never had problems with it!!!! I solder all the ends on, then use heavy duty heat shrink tubing to further protect them. DON'T run the cable inside the frame rail!!!! If it shorts out, gonna cause some big problems!!!! Also very hard to check it from time to time to make sure there are no cuts or scrapes that could lead to problems. High quality rubber insulate clamps are the best way to secure it to the frame rails, and keep it high up on the rails so it is less likely to get damaged by road debris....

Outside and under the car, never thru the interior. Have seen problems as described by R.Pope before. Not an electrifying experience but close.

Taylor maske awesome battery cables. Silicon sleeving and the most flexible I've seen. You can tie 'em in a knot if you want, no problem.

Kitz