Thread: New Frame Started

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Well started welding up my new frame for my 65 Ranchero.
After changing the design about 4 times, I decided that I was satisfied. I’m using 11 gage 2in.by 3in.tubing, which is what
the original frames front section was made with.
The center of the frame which is a unibody, was sheet metal in
the floor of the car. Most of this is so thin from rust that you can just poke your fingers thru it. The back section of the frame came up 10inches and looks like a U and then that was welded to the bottom of the bedpan or the sheet metal on the bottom side of the bed.
Most of the sheet metal will be replaced in both the floor and the bed of the truck. It will be a tri-level frame, the front section will be 3 inches higher then the center section. Both the front and the center sections width, will be the same. This is 26in. to the inside or 30in. to the outside. The rear section will be the same 10in. higher then the center as the original frame. The width for the rear section will be narrowed to 34in inside or 38in outside.
All ends will be caped with 1/4in. flat bar since bumpers are installed with brackets that come off the sides of the frame anyway. The front end will be a one piece that tilts up to expose engine. The bed will have new wheel tubes installed to allow for wider tires. Thanks to Dave Severson and all the stupid questions he’s had to answer over the last couple of years, my dream for this car is finally coming true. Here is a site of another nice guy that’s been a big help. He has the sharpest 65 Ranchero that I have ever seen,his name is Rick Devito check out his home page. I've been taking pictures so I'll post them after they are developed.

http://loco4fomoco.com/
Kurt

Good to see you're still going on the Ranchero, Vara. Mine is still just sitting on the chassis jig doubling as a storage shelf right now!!! Got to get about 3 more projects kicked out the door and I should be able to get back to it.....Well, unless I decide to take on a few more from paying customers!!!! Sure is hard to turn down that $$$$$$.....

when i did my pro street falcon, i used 2x4 more strength and rigidity.

Hey Dave; I was gonna ask how your Ranchero was coming
You’ll probably still be do before me, I’ve still got so much more to do. Just not enough hours in a day, I work about 12 hours a day.
By the time I get home, ends up about 14 hours, with travel time.
Stiill gotta buy and have cut, new side windows to remove the wings. Gotta cut down my junk yard 9in.rear and have disc brakes installed on it. Two new front ends one under the frame and one on top of it. New wiring harness, New style dash/w all new inst. Panel. Plus home improvement, Just got done build burglar bars for the whole house and installed them my self. Then time for family, But then you know all this Dave. I’ll just be chipping away little by little at it. I do have to say I am taking my time on the welds of the frame. I weld it up grind it down, check for cracks, low spots and Re-weld and grind it smooth. Now I don’t want to brag but I didn’t think I could do this good with no formal welding experience. I had some buddies come over and take a look at it, one who is a welder by profession said what a great job I was doing. Said that the frame looked like it was formed like that, instead of being welded. Probably shooting sunshine up my butt, still it was good to hear and gave me more motivation to do the best I can. Takes lots and lots of time though.

48fordnut;
The front and center sections over lap about 6 inches so in places the frame is 6 inches high. I’ve also added four cross members that
were never in the frame. Two safety loops for the drive line. The back section comes up normal then I put a cross member at the top of the rise in between the frame rails. From that I came down with two pieces of 2 by 3 to a lower cross member in the center section which also supports a safety loop. So there is four pieces or rails to the 10 inch rise in the back of the frame. Then every thing will be tied together with a 10 point roll cage. I don’t think my problem is gonna be with strength but more with weight. My car is just a street strip deal nothing to crazy, After 3 Years of chemo the old body can’t take a lot. Went to Disney and rode this car ride with these old looking cars that accelerate like their drag racing.
The whole time I was thinking when the _ _ _ _ is this dame thing gonna slow down. Thought my heart would pop out of my chest.
Now I used to run big block Dodges back in the day but my body can’t take the G force any more. My 550H.P. 351 cleveland should be just about right, to have some fun with out giving myself heart failure. HE! HE! HE! Kurt

My frame on the Ranchero is only 1 1/2 X 3, but with a roll cage and proper bracing and gusseting it will be plenty strong. The frame I build for the Merc's is 2 X 4 though, with no cage takes some stout rails and crossmembers to keep the flex out of things.

Hey Dave; Yep there was not alot of frame under these things to begin with, after adding a center section,cross members, roll cage they should be plenty strong. Plus I'll be welding new sheet metal in the floor and in the bed to the new frame. So there is alot of added strength there too. Kurt

my floor is just going to be 20 ga. with a removable trans tunnel so there will be very little structural strength to it. It will still be plenty stiff--with a dummy engine in and no cage yet it will sit on three jackstands, usually a good sign!

Dave ;
You think a small block C-6 will fit in the old C-4 trany tunnel?
Or should I buy a new trany tunnel for it?
Kurt

Might have to raise the tunnel a bit, C-6 is considerably larger...

10/4 ok thanks. Kurt