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Thread: Weld and bolts vs Gluing panels, a science project.....
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Quote Originally Posted by MARTINSR
    ....... (10 year old boys love destroying things, don't they?).
    Not just 10 year old ones.............
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

  2. #2
    R Pope is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Leave the glued panel out in the weather for a year or so and try it again, you'll get a big surprise!

  3. #3
    kennyd's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by R Pope
    Leave the glued panel out in the weather for a year or so and try it again, you'll get a big surprise!
    i have used it in our bodyshop for 8 to 10 years , never had a problem .
    we glue 1/4 panels, door skins , roof skins . take a car and weld a 1/4 panel on and try to corrision protect the back side where you cant get to .
    i will take glue all day !
    yes i drove ,the trailer didnot drive it's self
    FATGIRLS ARE LIKE MOPEDS , FUN TO RIDE JUST DONT LET YOUR FRIENDS SEE YOU ON THEM

  4. #4
    kitz's Avatar
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    I like your project!

    The glue probably holds about 2,000 psi in shear, or 2,000 lb per square inch of bond surface which is in the ball park here. The sheet metal will begin to fail due to bearing stresses from 2 x 1/4 inch bolts under 1,000 lb. Those welds did not appear to have much area to them either.

    The achilles of bonded joints lies in tensile peel of the joint. In tension the bond is fairly weak. If you can avoid this condition they will work real good in general. If there is tension then glue it and bolt (or rivet) it. The old belt and suspenders trick works wonders. BTW a pattern of 5 x 1/4 steel rivets (like on a dice) would probably rival the glue.

    Kitz
    Jon Kitzmiller, MSME, PhD EE, 32 Ford Hiboy Roadster, Cornhusker frame, Heidts IFS/IRS, 3.50 Posi, Lone Star body, Lone Star/Kitz internal frame, ZZ502/550, TH400

  5. #5
    Bob Parmenter's Avatar
    Bob Parmenter is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    These responses are similar to the catalyzed primer comments on the 3k thread. Some folks have problems, others chime in along the same line. Not saying they haven't had the problem, just saying that the experience of thousands of others is different. In the case of catalyzed primers and panel bonding, the pros in body shops, other paint facilities, and even the OEM plants have success everyday with these products. They have an economic interest in success/performance because they have warrantees issued.

    The DIY guy has a greater chance for failure for any number of reasons. Getting help is more difficult because they are "small fry" to the sellers of the material, and they are less likely (which is also to say not always) to store and use the materials correctly without realizing their error. There is also the chance that the material is out of date, contaminated, or otherwise environmentaly adversely affected. When I had my shop, if I had a product performance issue I would have a knowledgable rep at my door in short order to determine cause and remediation......................that's part of the benefit of spending many thousands per month for product.
    Your Uncle Bob, Senior Geezer Curmudgeon

    It's much easier to promise someone a "free" ride on the wagon than to urge them to pull it.

    Luck occurs when preparation and opportunity converge.

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