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Thread: New pinion and ring installation
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    shawnlee28's Avatar
    shawnlee28 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    New pinion and ring installation

     



    I went out and got everything new except the carier bearings and spider gears beacuse they look brand new.I am going to install the pinion with the honed out bearing and then the carier to determine gear miter and back lash as Denny suggested.I am also going to clean the housing out real good first,I also have new axel bearings and seals .

    Everything sound good soo far ?I have never done this before so any info is a confidence builder at this point.
    The gears are 4.11:1 richmond sportsman gears.
    I will be posting pics of the gear miter also when its installed to get your guys opinions.
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  2. #2
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    Thnx,I think its going good soo far!!Got a good brush and swabed it out like a cannon barrel With soap and water.
    Refurbished the drive line with new u-joints and carrier bearing.
    I am going to install the pinion with the fancy honed out bearing and the the carrier to determine where I am at today.........Here are some progress pics.
    Attached Images
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  3. #3
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    More progress!!!
    Attached Images
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  4. #4
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    Today ,I had the grind down some burs where the race shoulders are inside the rear end case {seems previous repairer dinged em pretty good and the race was not seated}which means starting all over with the cleaning process.

    Then I was able to install the front and rear race with the help from step dads tools,a hydraulic bearing installer makes life easy as 1,2,3, and they were in!!!I also was able to remove and re-install the ring on the carrier and install the pinion in the rear end.
    I cant even imagine how much more difficult it would have been with out a slide puller and the hydraulic installer!!
    Attached Images
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  5. #5
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    I saved the best 2 for last,...the torque wrench and the hydraulic bearing installer!!!The torque wrench is older than my truck ...but was checked about 6 months ago wrench to wrench with the most exspensive torque wrench in town and it was within 1/2 lb of perfect
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    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  6. #6
    SBC's Avatar
    SBC
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    Nice - don't forget the assembly photos
    There is no limit to what a man can do . . . if he doesn't mind who gets the credit. (Ronald Reagan)

  7. #7
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    This is a very good post. I only replaced a ring and pinion gear twice in my life. The first time, in a 1956 Ford pickup, and the damned rearend howled like a wolf from then untill I sold it. The second time, in a Grenada 8" rearend under the 27 roadster, and that one went well, but it was more good luck that skilled installation techniques----
    Old guy hot rodder

  8. #8
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    Here's an idea. You will be pleased how it works. Go to the store and but Foot Powder in an aerosol can (spray form with a powder finish....tinactin is clear so go with a powdery style spray). Lightly spray on the areas of contact. It will only contact and "rub" the surface for where you are trying to "look". It easily comes off with Brakekleen or similar cleaner. It takes no preload or extra effort to "see" what you're trying to achieve. Old trick from the old days when we needed to get a feel.
    Last edited by nitrowarrior; 04-03-2007 at 05:53 PM.

  9. #9
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    to get a good print out .go to a art store/hobby shop and i use oil paint the thick past paint comes in a small tin tube i use yellow

  10. #10
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    More pics ,This time with chalk line chalk {I am a carpenter }I will have to get some of the drive side in the next few mins....
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    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  11. #11
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    I just realized I had coast and drive sides confused
    Might mark alot faster if I am looking at the right side
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  12. #12
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    Ok....disregard the last set of pics,I did not know my coast from my drive side I am sure Denny knew which side he was looking at I was a little confused in my Jethro Bodine cyphering.
    Now That I am taking pictures of the correct side of the gear They were very easy to mark.I guess turning drive direction and looking at the coast side is noo good
    These are the coast side pics in this post.......Turning the drive shaft counter clockwise which is reverse to make these marks.
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    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  13. #13
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    Now these are the drive side pics ,taken rotating the driveshaft clockwise which is drive ,to make these marks
    I feel like Jethro Bodine after snapin all the previous incorrect photos
    Attached Images
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

  14. #14
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    pinion to far in that would be to far in thering gear that would be DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDD DDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDDd
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 04-03-2007 at 08:00 PM.

  15. #15
    shawnlee28's Avatar
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    Thnx,fellas
    This the chart that came with the ring and pinion,........soo its calling this high tooth contact and saying move drive pinion deeper into mesh{meaning?} towards the back of the case ?Like Pat said to far in /meaning to far into case ?or too far into gears {back of case}
    Attached Images
    Its gunna take longer than u thought and its gunna cost more too(plan ahead!)

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