Thread: Roadster Stuff

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[QUOTE=C9x]Since there are so many ways to go and tricks to do with roadsters - and coupes and sedans - I thought this may be a good way to go.

Might consider this as the beginning of the Roadster Tip forum ???

I found that using a conduit hickey I could easily bend the 1" round tubing that I used for my bulkhead - square tubing is difficult to form without kinking though I did use 1/2" squares on my prototype and as yet unused hard top. I then tied it to the body supports under the panel between the trunk lid and the passenger compt riser then tied it to the sides and to the floor/body frame channels. It really makes the body solid. Since most of the rivets were not bucked properly, most everything on the body was welded - and again, it tightened everthing up. I will be rebucking the rivets at the bottom of the firewall shortly - though did consider and still may, grind 'em flat and weld them as well.

I will not have room for a spare in any shape or form - though in my case expect to build a small trailer. An expensive error in judgement that left me with 2 extra 15x8 Billet Specialties wheels and some 'Z' rated Yokohama tires will at least allow me to have it match the car - also have an extra pair of Pontiac style taillights. Now all that is needed is a couple of hundred dollars of steel, and a couple of weekends. I have the bucks, but no time though with the car paint still outstanding.

Your plan for a gas tank sounds good though not feasible for a '31/'31 frame. With a '31 roadster you either have it in the trunk (NEVER for me), Tanks Inc splash shield units, original cowl (again, NEVER for me) or do the '32 style with the significant amount of necessary work to the 'A' rear frame. Your 14 gallons is only about a gallon less than an aftermarket '32 (there is a 17 gallon version but it compromises ground clearance by about 2 more inches).
Believe it or not, there are empty spaces in Upstate NY where gas stations are few and far between. One of the largest counties in NY has only about 5300 residents, or less than 3/mile, so gas stations are at a minimum and it is expensive.

Went to Burlington VT for the NSRA NE SR Nationals. Crappy weather, but still managed to draw about 1300 cars. Lots of Canadians - with really nice rides. With their tax structure and import regulations don't know how they do it.

[QUOTE=Irelands child]

Originally Posted by C9x

Since there are so many ways to go and tricks to do with roadsters - and coupes and sedans - I thought this may be a good way to go.

Might consider this as the beginning of the Roadster Tip forum ???

I found that using a conduit hickey I could easily bend the 1" round tubing that I used for my bulkhead - square tubing is difficult to form without kinking though I did use 1/2" squares on my prototype and as yet unused hard top. I then tied it to the body supports under the panel between the trunk lid and the passenger compt riser then tied it to the sides and to the floor/body frame channels. It really makes the body solid. Since most of the rivets were not bucked properly, most everything on the body was welded - and again, it tightened everthing up. I will be rebucking the rivets at the bottom of the firewall shortly - though did consider and still may, grind 'em flat and weld them as well.

I will not have room for a spare in any shape or form - though in my case expect to build a small trailer. An expensive error in judgement that left me with 2 extra 15x8 Billet Specialties wheels and some 'Z' rated Yokohama tires will at least allow me to have it match the car - also have an extra pair of Pontiac style taillights. Now all that is needed is a couple of hundred dollars of steel, and a couple of weekends. I have the bucks, but no time though with the car paint still outstanding.

Sounds like an nice way to make the outer pieces for a bulkhead.
My pal has a square tube bender he used to use in his wrought iron work.
That should work for my bulkhead.

Given any thought to a roll-bar like piece under the cowl at the firewall?
Most roadsters do the cowl/windshield shake bit when they hit a railroad crossing or similar.

I plan to put one of these in the car and depending on how I build the roll-bar, either tie it to the roll-bar or make a steeply angle brace piece.
Trouble there is, the brace will take away from footroom.
In fact, the side panel upholstery in the cowl area took away from footroom in my 32.
I've been thinking of making a recessed panel for this area.

So far, all the rivets I've looked at close are bucked like they should be.
Granted, nothing like driving the car, but the body proper seems to be very stiff as is from the factory.

The pic shows some braces that help a lot when when handling the body.
Remove the doors and install a 1" aluminum angle piece to a door hinge hole and a latch hole at the other end.
You'll need a couple of 1" x 1" drilled aluminum angle pieces bolted on each end of the brace to make the 90 degree turn to the door holes.
Even so, they're quick and easy to make.

I handle the body by myself using a roll-around engine hoist.
Four 3/8" eyes bolted to four holes in the body - which conveniently are in a hat channel area of the subfloor making for a strong point to lift.
Four motorcycle tie-down straps adjusted so the body hangs level, connect the straps to hook and chain on the hoist and you're in business.

Another aid is a 1" square tubing rack that's a 36" x 72" rectangle with castered wheels on one end and non-castered wheels on the other.
Don't be tempted to put castering wheels on each corner, the body/rack will go every which way when you try to roll it around.
Place a couple of 8' 2 x 4's between rack and body so the body is supported correctly.
Nothing fancy, no cutting required, just lay em in place.
Depending on how far you go etc., it may pay to clamp the 2 x 4's to the rack

I had a larger rack when I built my 32, it had very easy rolling large castered wheels on all four corners.
Only thing that saved it were the built-in brakes on the casters.

When I painted the 32's body, I turned it upside down on a couple layers of thick carpet with cardboard boxes underneath.
Painted the underside, let it cure for a few days.
Then I added some plywood sides to the roll-around rack to raise the body up 2' for painting.
The plywood sides were padded with soft rags and the like, the body went on and the upper part of the body was painted.

I've been thinking strongly of building a trailer hitch for this car.
Probably don't need it due to lots of room in the trunk, but it would be a nice option.
A slide in piece carrying the ball that entered on a 45 or 90 degree angle would keep it out of sight for the most part.
Part of whether or not I build a hitch will depend on what style rear bumper I use.
My 32 has a gasser style bumper and I'm liking nerf bars for the 32.

Choices . . . and decisions....