Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Any A/C experts out there?
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2
Results 16 to 24 of 24

Hybrid View

  1. #1
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    OK Guys, based on earlier input I went looking for my expansion valve and for restrictions in the system, and I think I may have found a restriction. On the new hose that runs from the direr to the evaporator on the high side, the 90 degree metal fitting is a smaller diameter than the old hose fitting. The old fitting was 3/8" OD, the new fitting is 5/16" OD and then steps up to 3/8" at the connection point. Is this enough of a difference to cause a problem? The high pressuer side is pushing along through a #6 hose between the drier and evaporator and now has to go through a smaller pipe than before. I think the hose maker used what he had instead of what was actually needed and I did not even notice it when I went to install it because the fitting on the end was still the right size. Thanks again for all your help.

    Denny those readings look like what I am looking for with 90 degree ambient, Troy that Vintage Air trouble guide is very helpful. From that I have a restriction, a bad expansion valve or am over charged. The growl and chatter could make me think we have air in the system, but I know it has been well evacuated.

    Thanks again

    Pat
    Last edited by Stu Cool; 08-13-2006 at 01:02 PM.
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  2. #2
    lucforce is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Mobile
    Posts
    129

    If you suspect a restriction in the expansion valve, check the temp of the line on either side of it. Normally the temp should be same on either side. If there is a restriction there, and you have the proper R134a level, you will see a temp difference.

    Also, you never told us how much r134a you put in the system.

  3. #3
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    The dye could be a factor. We did not weigh the supply tank, only going by gauges to determine the amount. Next time we will use a scale. I will find out how much dye went in tomorrow, it was put in by the first shop that worked on it when we were chasing leaks. So the consensus is if the expansion valve was partially clogged it would not cool at all?

    thanks again for all the help

    Pat
    Last edited by Stu Cool; 08-13-2006 at 09:23 PM.
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  4. #4
    lucforce is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jul 2006
    Location
    Mobile
    Posts
    129

    It is a simple thermodynamic principle. Your a/c system is a heat mover. For the evaporator to remove heat from the vehicle, a defined amount of fluid must pass through the valve and then the evaporator. This fluid will move the heat from the vehicle and expell it.

    When the a/c system "blows cold air," it is removing heat. For the system to remove heat there must be a sufficient flow through the expansion valve or orifice.

    Restricted valve or orifice and no fluid flow and thus no cool air.

  5. #5
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    Thanks again everyone, I will refrain from using the A/C until this is resolved. I spoke with the folks at Southern Air, they are the ones who built the original system. He agreed there is a restriction and indicated the small fitting may be the problem. My next step is to pull the hose with the narrow fitting and have it redone with a proper one. This will have to wait a little bit as my buddy with the gauges, vacuum pump and 134a tank is going out of town for a while. While I have the system apart I will look for other restrictions and make sure everything is clear. I will also look into this stuff:

    http://www.acsource.com/index.asp?Pa...OD&ProdID=1245

    And may flush the system depending on how far I need to take it apart, per the instructions. We will weigh the tank as we charge, I have a fishing scale that reads in pounds and ounces, and set the target for 2 pounds or less. The Southern air folks said the pressures are the ultimate measure as the vairied size of systems makes it difficult to predict an exact weight of 134a to use.

    Just like other experiences, I am sure learning a lot about auto air conditioning works and I thank all of you for taking time to share your knowledge.

    Pat
    Last edited by Stu Cool; 08-14-2006 at 01:32 PM.
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  6. #6
    Stu Cool's Avatar
    Stu Cool is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2003
    Location
    Olivehurst, CA
    Car Year, Make, Model: '53 Studebaker Custom w/LS1
    Posts
    1,900

    Thought I should wrap this up and let you know what happened with this, thanks again for all the replies. We got the system working right last week-end. Basing our actions on the idea that there was a restriction in the system, we removed the refrigerant, then flushed the condensor and evaporator and made sure the hoses were clear. We then vacuumed it for over an hour at 28+ inches and checked to make sure it would hold the vacuum. Then we slowly applied the refrigerant, this system has always been R134, was never R12. We did not have a scale to measure how much we applied. The pressures came in just like they should and we ended up with just under 30 on the low side and 190-200 on the high side. We had to set a fan up to blow through the condensor to get the final pressures just right. It is blowing 35-36 degrees with the fan on high now. The odd noises are gone and it seems to be working like it should. We believe there may have been residual oil and/or dye in the system and flushing it has solved the problem. So Stu Cool (that's the Studebaker's name) is indeed cool as it should be!

    Pat
    Of course, that's just my opinion, I could be wrong!

  7. #7
    scanmyride is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    San Diego
    Posts
    6

    Yeah I think the only thing I would worry about is frying the compressor. You should also add an ounce of oil to the evap and condensor.

  8. #8
    ron 52's Avatar
    ron 52 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Oct 2005
    Location
    Eugene
    Car Year, Make, Model: chevy 1977 silverado
    Posts
    39

    good advice

     



    You got such good advice on your A/C I have a question

    I want to put a A/C system back in my 1977 Chevy C10 truck
    It originally had A/C I would like to use R134 I have the old R12
    pump but it is bad What is the best way to go about this

    Ron 52
    ron 52

  9. #9
    31 5w is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2006
    Location
    mt. dora
    Car Year, Make, Model: 31 ford 5window
    Posts
    72

    I have changed over a few of my Avanti s to r134 -you minimal have to change out receiver /dryer, o-rings completly flush system w/ cleaner to remove traces of old oil . Install new compressor w/ ester oil, charge to ~ 80% of r-12 capacity- better to go by weights. If you do not change all hoses to " barrier hose" you will have to top off ever 6-10 months as r-134 partical size is much smaller than r-12 and w higher r-134 static pressures will seep out through walls of hoses. 31 5w

Reply To Thread
Page 2 of 2 FirstFirst 1 2

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink