Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: Trouble w/ EZ-wiring Harness and SBC
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 4 of 4
  1. #1
    johnny knuckles is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Columbus
    Posts
    262

    Trouble w/ EZ-wiring Harness and SBC

     



    It's the first time that I have attempted to use an EZ-wiring harness..... and apparently it isn't as "EZ" as they claim. I'm trying to use their 21-circuit version and because they are set up for later model vehicles, I'm having a lot of trouble.....and maybe it isn't the harness.

    Basically what I've got is a 4 prong ignition switch. I have the wire labled "starter" going to the ST on the switch. the other labled starter to the Mini Starter. I have the main power from the battery going to the Batt prong. I have the wire labled accesories going to the ACC prong and I have the two wires labled "coil pwr" and "Pwr to ignition" going to the IGN. prong on the switch. I also have a coil wire coming off my starter solenoid , going to the coil.

    I am using a Mallory Uni-lite distributor.

    So what my problem is, is that when I turn the key to Start, the motor will fire up, but when I let off the starter the motor will die. As if the coil is not continuing to get power after the starter is disengaged. I'm assuming that I am missing something with the harness, or I have something wired wrong at the solenoid. I messed with a bunch of combinations this afternoon and none of them solved the problem.... any ideas? Thanks.

  2. #2
    Itoldyouso's Avatar
    Itoldyouso is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Jan 2006
    Location
    fort myers
    Car Year, Make, Model: '27 ford/'39 dodge/ '23 t
    Posts
    11,033

    Here is what you should have it hooked up like:

    1) The wire labeled "starter" is ok going to the ST on the switch. You are ok there. The other end of that wire should go to the skinny post on the Chevy solenoid that is to the right of the fat post, where you connected your positive battery lead. Since it is cranking, it looks like you have done this correctly.

    2) Where you goofed up is that you connected the one that said "coil power" to the switch, along with the other one that says "power to ignition", on the same terminal. Leave the "power to ignition" alone, and move the "coil power" to the same + terminal on the coil where you hooked up the one from the starter solenoid.

    You may have to run this one through a resistor (see what the instructions say, or it may already be a resistor type wire.

    What is happening is, you are getting 12 volts from the solenoid to fire the coil while cranking, but when you are releasing the key to the run position, no power is going to the coil to keep it going.

    I think you are one wire away from having it be ok.


    Don
    Last edited by Itoldyouso; 04-29-2006 at 02:03 PM.

  3. #3
    johnny knuckles is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Columbus
    Posts
    262

    wiring

     



    Great. I hope that's it. In the past I just followed a diagram and went with it.... I can't tell how this harness was assembled.... and 21 cicuits definitely is intimidating. I'll be trying this bright and early tomorrow. I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks.
    Last edited by johnny knuckles; 04-29-2006 at 05:41 PM.

  4. #4
    johnny knuckles is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Dec 2003
    Location
    Columbus
    Posts
    262

    got it working, but did it a different way. I kept having 30A fuses blow, so I disconnected the wire from the starter to the coil, put in a 40A fuse, a resistor in the power wire to the cable and everything seems to be hunky doory.


    we'll see. I have been taxing Mallory's tech support group because I have a uni-lite module that fails their trigger test, yet the car still runs. Both parties are baffled.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink