Thread: Cool Paint Site
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09-09-2003 07:58 PM #6
Jack ,
I will try and help you out & not confuse you to much....LOL
Beings I cant see the car & you say its pretty straight ,here are my sugestions.
What color are you going to refinish it ?
If its a solid color I would paint it in pieces: do the whole body including jambs
(sans) doors, deck lid, front sheet metal. Doing this eliminates tape lines in the jamb areas.
Paint doors , deck lid, fenders, and hood seperate.
If its a metallic color I would still paint all seperate , BUT ALL at the same time as
Metallics can change shades slightly from one mixing to another . plus , gun settings , humidity, temperature
& other elements can be of a very slight problem on color match.
ok for preping it out to get to paint, after you have all your drive train finished &
know is has a solid body, I would get some 400 grit wet or dry sand paper & block it
down wet to see all your minor imperfections.
then get some polyester glazing putty to fill them.This product can go over sanded paint!
these areas as any bare metal ,will need to be primed and blocked to get smooth .
I would use K36 primmer from PPG for this.I use nothing but PPG products.
It doesnt matter if you use Dupont, PPG, sikkins ect.just make sure what ever product
you go with stay with it all the way, no mix & matching products!!!
Then when you have it all straight & ready for paint , wipe down with a good wax & grease romover, Tac it,
spray a sealer down , then paint it .
I would highly stress using Base Coat/Clear Coat as it has alot of forgiveness. The base goes on easy & covers
in like 3-4 coats & drys fast. If you have a run, let it dry for a few minutes & sand it with 800 & recoat .
then spary 3 -4 coats of clear .
If you are painting it in your garage make sure you have plenty of ventalation. After you are done painting it dont
turn off fan , let it run all night with a window cracked to let out ALL solvent vapors.
As this can lead to solvent trapping, as paint will gas off for up to 90 days. This can cause the clear to die back
( loss of gloss) or solvent popping (tiny blisters).
let dry a few days then block sand with 1200 -1500 grit wet & buff it to a high Gloss.
I use 3Ms perfect-it products for the buffing & polishing.
I know i most likey missed out on a few things as I have a severe ear infection & cant think real straight.
SprayTech





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