Here's my take on this, and it is just that - my opinion; I've never had a bad experience using these procedures. On the other hand, I have lost a couple of wheels after following the manufacturers guidelines - that is how I came to my own conclusions on this business.

1. Keep all rust and corrosion brushed off of any surfaces that will mate.

2. Use a thin coating of anti-sieze on all places where dissimilar metals will come together, for example, on the face of the aluminum wheel where it contacts the brake drum or rotor hub, and the holes in the wheel that the straight sided lug nuts pass through, and between the washers under the nuts and the wheel.

3. Clean the threads on the studs and nuts, and the tapered lug nut seats, by hand with a wire brush.

4. Apply a small amount of light oil or spray lube to the threads and tapered seats, and wipe it off thoroughly with a rag, but don't remove it with solvent - the idea is to leave a protective coating, but not a lubricating one.

Part of the key here is to be very conservative in the use of lubricants and coatings - put the anti-sieze on with a brush or your finger, and wipe all but the thinnest of coating off. More is not better, in this case.