Thread: Body Prep, panel welding etc help needed

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Hey guys,

I am new to this hobby and I need some advice:

First, I need advice on sheet metal welding. I am only going to do floorboards for now until I get the skill down. I have been looking at the Henrob 2000 cutting torch. any commnets on what is good for welding floorboards etc would be great.

Second, Media blasting. What type of media blaster should I use and where can I find one? I have read sand blasting will warp the body.

Third, WHat is the best way to treat for rust, surface rust etc.

ANy comments or help would be greatly apprecaited.\

sanpedro

I cut tin with a shear, left hand, right hand, and straight snips. I would reccomend a mig welder for doing the welding. Lots of good products out for treating rust, I use one called Phix, available at a lot of parts stores. Not sure on the blasting, I have a guy do mine and all I now is that he doesn't use sand on tin and he doesn't warp panels. Hope this helps a bit, others will be along with more and better answers.

You are looking at the cutting torch for welding ie gas welding or just for cutting out the bad stuff? If you want a good sheet metal welder that can be used for even better stuff, look into the Hobart Handler 135. It is 110 volt and is a perfect hobby welder. Alos, Miller and Lincoln electric carry similar models. Just make sure that the welder you choose has capabilities for mig (gas solenoids) and not just a flux welder. Flux welding or innershield wire, requires hotter amperage and will burn through sheet metal easier. I would look for a 110 mig welder and get a 4.5" grinder and some cutting wheels to cut out the bad sheet metal. A gas welder, oxy/acetylene is just a bit too hot for me.

The Henrob would be nice as a cutting torch or welder,in most circumstances,,but if your needing a welder for body sheet metal work i would go with a Mig Welder gas sheilded,also less chance of making fires that way LoL,,,,,as to sand blasting,,,,,if a guy know's what he is doing,,,he shouldn't warp the metal,,,,the blasting medium can create a lot of localized heat,,and thats how it ends up warping the metal,,,but if you take care,,this should not happen.
The same thing happens when you are welding,,,you need to stitch weld your panels every four inches or so,,alternating as you go,,watch your heat range and you will do alright.
A real nice tool to have is a panel flanger,,,,your body sheet metal joints will look a lot nicer if you use one,,,you can get them in air,,or manual,,,pretty cheap tool,,,but nice finish.

Millermatic 135 MIG welder is the best for sheetmetal since it's not big, just keep the speed and amps way down and you'll be fine. Also there is a spray can you can get at places like Auto Zone, Advance Auto Parts, etc called "One Step". It turns rust into primer and won't come back through or spread but better if you can just grind it out or use a prep disk and get it out and sand the metal smooth. I would be careful about media blasting as well. Before you start welding on the car, get the same piece of metal you will use on the floors or whatever and practice first to see what settings will work best. Make sure it's not going all the way through the metal and then also make sure it's high enough to penetrate.

Also,,,media blasting will reveal a lot of swiss cheese,,,probably far more than you where counting on.

thanks guys for the input.

It sounds like a mig welder is the way to go. I have an air cutting disc tool I bought Habor fright and a gas cutting torch.

I will look for a panel flanger, not sure what that is but i will figure it out that is very helpful. Also, how do you line up........say like a floor panel? do you cut out the old and leave like a 1/4 " extra?
Are there any tricks to that?

I will practice on some other pieces before I tear into my car. Thats why I am just doing the floor boards, truck. My 69 camaro needs new quarters as well but I am going to leave that to the pros.

ANy other adive would be greatly apprecatied. Thanks again for all the advice!

sanpedro

i use osflow to prep rusty metal.u can get it a a paint supply store.just put it on the rusty spot wait 24 hours i always sand it off then etch prime the bare metal.

For the floor panels you can get that Flanger tool which lets you overlap the metal and weld it and it will still be level.. It just steps the metal down basically and leaves a little step to let the other metal sit on top and weld. Get what I mean? Now if you do patch panels on the body then when you cut out the metal just cut out the rust and then cut a new piece a tad bit smaller than the hole because when you weld the panel in it will all expand together and fit nice, etc.

everything sounds good, the only advice i will input here is about one of your cutting methods. i do quite a bit of metal work at home and ALOT of metal work at my dayjob, and if you have extensive cutting to do i would like for you to seriously consider the 4 1/2 inch angle grinder that was mentioned earlier. the cut-off tool you got from harbor frieght is nice to have for small jobs but for lots of cutting you will be very frustrated by it. you wont be able to cut very fast(not that is a horrible thing) but unless you have a very large, very powerful air compressor you will be in sorry shape. i have a 80gallon tank with a single cylinder compressor and the cut off tool wears it out. basically i can cut for about one and half-two minutes then i have to wait five minutes for the tank to fill back up. you can buy cut off wheels for a 4 1/2 angle grinder and you can really slice up some metal with it. youll never have to wait for the compressor and your electric bill will thank you for it as well. plus youll need the grinder anyway for shaping and smoothing panels.

just my two cents

good luck with your project

I am not sure how extensive you want to get into this. but you might want to consider having it dipped to remove all the rust.if there is a bunch of it. it is expensive but there is no rust when they are done


as far as the welding=gas shielded mig= low heat= stitch the panels takes hours to do it right.

most important is be patient and take your time. 3 days to weld a panel is better than a 1 hr job that requires 30 hrs of body work. to fix it. been there made the mistake my self thin metal is time consuming.

hope this helps and good luck with your toy.

The dipping option sounds the best to me as well.

FMXhellraiser......How much over lap on th floorpans? like a 1/4 or 1/2 inch? What type of sealer should I use once the weld is done and grinded?

Merlin I do have a grinder, so I will give that a shot as well.

Flanger tool = locking piliers, I have alot of those

I dont think I want to dipp this camaro but I would like to do it as best as possible. My next project is the 57 chevy you can see in my header. I hot rodded as a kidd and I am now just getting back into it and have found I have forgotten alot of stuff.

It looks like I am going to have to take out the seat mount and weld it back to the new floorboard as well as the gas tank mounts.

Thanks everyone for the advice!!!!!!!!!!!

my 69 camaro

2nd try