Attaching hood scoop ???

[Mike P]

I've got a question for you paint and body guys.

I'm currently playing with the idea of grafting a 61-63 T-Bird hood scoop to my 57 Plymouth. This may be necessary for aircleaner clearance. The scoop section is already cut off the donner hood.

If I do go this route, the scoop will be functional and the Plymouth hood area under the scoop will be cut out. My question is what is the best way to attach it to the Plymouth hood with the minimum amount of warpage so that it can be blended in with the least amount of body work.

As you can see by the picture I left extra material around the scoop for further trimming. One thing I briefly considered was trimming and then cutting the hole in the hood to match and welding into place. This is likely going to be the last alternative as I'm afraid I'll end up with extensive warpage even doing a little welding at a time.

Another option is to trim the scoop about an inch wider than the hole I'll put in the hood and use an impact hammer pannel flanger I have to flange the hood lip and the rivet the scoop in place and blend from there.

I'm definatly at the point where suggestions would be welcome.

[Ives Bradley]

I have welded a bunch of scoops on hoods and they always rust out the hood. But when I use studs attached to the scoop and caulking underneath I never have any rust . If u look at a factory bolt on piece its self explanatory. Hpoe this helps.

[SprayTech]

I would tac weld it in solid, and if you use a spray bottle of water to hit the tac welds to help cool and shrink the metal to keep it tight, also use some towels and soak them in water and lay them on each side of the butt joints about 2 " from seam to help soak up the heat too. All should go well.
start with the corners , then each center ,work SLOWLY around the hood from side to side front to back . may take 2 days dont get in a rush ! I grind my wleds as I go to help from putting alot of heat from grinding the whole thing when done.

Flanging the hood edge and droping the scoop in the flange then pop riviting it is a NO NO , the hood will heat up from sun and motor heat and beings the 2 pieces are seperate they will expand and contract different and will eventually crack out your bondo work.

You will also have to finish out welding up the inner structure as well if you weld it in .

I welded in a 87 Z 28 scoop panel in my S-10 hood
years ago and all came out well, you just have to go slow , and use the spray bottle of water and the wet rags.

SprayTech
P.S. get some of these to help keep the 2 panels together when welding
http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/p...ProductID=1159

[kenseth17]

I think it was just last month I was browsing at the magazine rack and all the maxim magazines were taken so I had to look at damn hot rods and muscle cars. Anywho, one of them had an article about a new product they tested. Sorry I can't tell you more about it because I just glanced at the article quickly, but it must do somewhat the same thing as the towel trick streets mentioned. Its a material you apply around the area you are welding, I believe it had sponge in the name ??? Anyways the magazine testing it said they were real skeptical of it, but they turned up the heat 3 times what was needed and burned holes in the metal and it stopped the distortion. They tried one side without it and the other side with it, and the side they didn't put you could see the heat traveled way out by the color of the metal and the side they applied it to it stopped where the material was applied. Did you ever consider using one of the panel adhesives like they hold bedsides, door skins ect on with. Seems to me that would eliminate distortion and corrosion. I would think use the adhesive and if you feel the need also spot weld it on in some spots. fusor, 3m (duramix), usc, all make them.

[SprayTech]

The new Glues are great stuff , BUT its the clamping that gives it its strength, pretty hard to clamp the center of the hood.

I used to use ( years ago ) a product called KLIX
it was an asbestos like clay that you formed around your weld area that absorbed heat, this was when we had to gas weld everything, before wire feed welders were introduced to the Body Shop Industry.
I think 3M has a product that is like a thin jelly substance that absorbs heat also , I remember the 3M rep comming in the shop around 4 years ago promoting the product.....you could rub it on your hand and wave the torch over your hand and never feel the heat from the flame.
I cant think of the Products name off hand . Might try your local Jobber and see if they have this product.

The reason I gave the wet towel trick is because of the cheap factor, as some of these products are expensive if your only going to use them one time.

Spray

[Mike P]

Well, I'm just about done with the scoop. After I read the replys and talked to the body man who's going to do the rest of the car, I elected to trim the scoop and turn it into a bolt on. The pictures don't do it justice it really works well.

When I get some time, I'm going to look for another one to use on my 64 Ford Custom.

Thanks for all your replys.

[HOTRODPAINT]

From my experience, the only two options that work are, weld it in solid, or make it a bolt on. Everything else is eventually subject to cracking.