Don,

The frame was in the way, so I had to transfer the measuring points to the floor.

With an inclinometer and a good tape, you can do a darn good job.

I made sure my frame was square by cross-measuring from corner to corner. Then I made sure my rear axle was perpendicular to the centerline of the chassis by measuring from both the front and back of the frame on both sides, dropping a plumb bob where necessary. I set the rear axle east-to west by measauring from the frame rail to the opposite axle flange on both sides. I set the rear pinion angle by adjusting the ladder bars with an inclinometer on the face of the yoke.

To locate the front axle, I started by making sure that the rear mounting points for the hairpins were in the right spots by measuring from both the front and back tips of the frame rails. Then I set both hairpins to exactly the same length and bolted the rear rod end to the chassis. I bolted the axle to the hairpins, hooked up the shocks, and set the chassis on the floor. I adjusted the panhard bar so I had equal distance from the framerails to the center of the kingpins on both sides. I double checked the front axle location by measuring from centerline of the rear axles to the centerline of the front axle on both sides. I have flat-top kingpins, so I was able to set the caster by putting an inclinometer on the top and adjusting the hairpin clevises equal amounts. (I had no axle twist). I didn't do anything with camber, I guess for now I'm trusting Super Bell.

The trick is to do all of this as early in the assembly process as possible. Some settings (like caster) will change as you add weight to the body, but if you get them really close early, it will take only minor adjustments later on.

You can find good shops that can handle 4-bar and solid axle alignments, but it takes some questioning up front.

How was that for a Don Shillady-length post?