Don---If you use the original latches, you will also have to purchase a set of dovetail locators to install on the door and jambs to locate the door vertically. The original latches do not have the safety features that the bear-claw latches (which are a double lever rotary latch) have. The bear-claw latches have an alignment feature which makes it unnecessary to have dovetails. The bear-claw latches also have an adjustable striker bolt which is a real boon when setting up the initial door alignment. Another feature of the bear-claw latches is that in a car with roll up windows in the doors (which doesn't leave room for the bearclaw latch in the door) they can be reverse installed, that is to say, with the latch mechanism recessed into the door jamb and the striker bolt on the door. People who are using electric solenoids with no outside door handles like to do this, as it does not require electrical wires running to solenoids in the doors. The pulling force required to "unlatch" a bearclaw latch is much lower than that required to unlatch a stock model A latch. Once a bear-claw latch is "latched" onto its striker bolt, it is pretty well impossible for the door to pop open, even in a situation of severe body flex. Also, a big selling feature is that bear-claw latches are generic, meaning that they can be installed in just about any vehicle. There you go---that is just about the sum total of my knowledge about bear-claw latches.