Thread: rear end

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Are you using the Model-A axle? I guess now you have had to cut off the frame horns? Maybe you saved money this way, but today dropped axles are readily available. Anyway I suppose there are a lot of ways to do this and there have been many variations, but it is beyond me except to remind you that the frame width is tapered in the back and if you cut off the rear of the frame you will have to widen the remaining part or narrow the rear crossmember. I have a Brookville repro frame with a 4" drop Magnum axle and I only have about 4 1/2" of ground clearance which seems low to me. If you are lower than that road bumps may be a problem. Anyway if it is not too late I suggest you try a Magnum dropped axle and go back to the original spring setup. I am sorry to admit I have started several projects like this and ended up hauling away a pile of useless metal and that is one reason I am trying to build a replica Model-A to replace several I hacked up. One in particular was a '29 woodie wagon which I was going to put a custom plactic body on with a rear kickup in the frame but that just withered away because it was more than I could do so now I am sticking to parts I can buy and have been engineered to work. I know you want to be innovative and I guess you can find a number of T-front ends similar to yours, but once you cut off the rear of the frame there is an increased chance that you will end up with just pieces unless you are very clever. Just my opinion, but I found I could not always implement my ideas and so now I stick with trusted combinations that can be purchased. If someone else can say, "Oh Yeah, that is easy to fix.", then I yield to them, but maybe you should not cut further until you get some more opinions. Then there is the infamous issue of boxing an original frame and my position on that is you should box it. Well I am just answering to keep your thread going until somebody with more experience comes along.

Don Shillady
Retired Scientist/teen rodder