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Thread: 54 belair 4 DOOR...
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    Tacoma750 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    54 belair 4 DOOR...

     



    Well im new here guys nad heres my story. Its kinda long but i want yopu all to get to know me. Im 17 and I am in a trade school. I take Auto Body and i do great work...well so my teacher says. Anyway, my best friends grandmom has a 4door belair. Shes the origanal owner and the car has been in my best friend barn for years..Its a total peice. Anyway, last summer we were goin to start on it. But my friend was in a terrible crash and is parolized from the chest down. Itsthe worst thing that has ever happened to me. After he got out of the Hospital, he asked me if i would finish the car...without him. I ofcourse said yes. But now i need your help. Im doing all of the body work. the hbody isnt rerally in TO BAD of condition. It needs all new moldings, some ding repair andit has 2-3 small rust spots. The interior needs to be totally redone. The motor is the 235 motor i think. It obviously doesnt run. So heres what i was thinking. I would like to get the rear tires to stick out a little bit, lower the front end and leave everything else completley stock.No shaved handels no chopped top and to SUICIDE doors. Can you guys hook me up with some pictures of 54 4 door belairs? I really appriciate it. This BowTie means the wrld to my buddy, and it means the world to me to get her done for him, and his grandmom.


    Please take this seriously guys. I have a love for cars, and customs. Please help me out guys.

  2. #2
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Well, it probably is a 235 6cyl, should have the V cover studs around the sides unlike the 216 or up to 1952 car 235 which would both have just 2 studs, in the center of the cover. If you want to ID the motor to be shure on it, the castings are underneath the fuel pump on the passenger side of the motor. You might only want to suicide the rear doors, all 4 might be too much and suiciding the fronts, when all 4 are open, the front ands rears would touch back to back, probably bad for the paint and look dorky with the doors like that. If the motor isn't locked, put a set of points and a condensor under the distributor cap, replace the plugs, get a 6 volt battery ( chevy didn't use 12 volt systems until 1955 ) and pour a little gas in the carb and try it, chances are, it will fire up.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  3. #3
    Tacoma750 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I ment to say im not doing suicide doors. I want the body stock. I only want wider rear tires and to lower the front end. Thx for the help on the motor, i'll give it a try next weekend when im up there. Hopefully i get some more good replies, and pictures

  4. #4
    Matt167's Avatar
    Matt167 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I forgot, it'd probably be a good idea to change the oil b4 starting, for all you know, it's mostly water by now. The oil filter is the old canister style, it is on the drivers side near the manifolds, I think the nut that holds the canister cap is 3/4", I'm not shure but, that's the way it is on the 235 in my '51 4dr but that's the babbit pounder/ dipper 235 ( no oil pump, just a couple of splash dippers ), the motor is basicly the same, all external parts are in the same location. Clifford performance or speedway motors has intake manifolds and headders to fit your engine, mine also, I'm getting the fenton headders and the offy 3 carb intake from speedway, clifford has expensive parts and, only his parts work with his parts ( Jack Clifford is a person, he runs/ founder of clifford performance ) without modification. I'm not shure how your gonna make the rears stick out, you can get wheel spacers to bring the wheel out twords the well and in turn, make the gap on the inside of the well larger so, a slightly bigger tire could be used, maby an inch or so bigger but, that's it, you can't run M/T DOT rated slicks like your probably thinking, you'd have to tub the car and redo the frame a little.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  5. #5
    Tacoma750 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    im probably just gonna run spacers. Im dont want to touch or tub the car.I just have to find some spacers

  6. #6
    Matt167's Avatar
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    1" 4.75" bolt pattern will do, available at places like Advance Auto. Also, drop spindles are available, that will do the trick to lower the front.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  7. #7
    Tacoma750 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    any ideas?i need some pictures guys...

  8. #8
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Originally posted by Tacoma750
    any ideas?i need some pictures guys...
    This should give John Gemmer somthing to start with on photoshoping, that or treekiller, if they don't reply, Just PM them and if there willing to do a photoshop and have time, I'm shure they'll do 1 or 2 varaitions up for you. I'd actully fab a '50 merc grille in that, it's possible and has been done b4, would look cool.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

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