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Thread: 1951 Ford F1 Rat Rod Truck
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    dmw56's Avatar
    dmw56 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Car Year, Make, Model: 30,34,39,50,54,65,68,70,71,72
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    Got a free Chevy bed from a friend. Cut it down to 46" and welded it back together.











    Livin' on Route 66

  2. #2
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Tearing it apart after mock-up and painting the frame.









    Livin' on Route 66

  3. #3
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Frame paint and putting it all back together.











    Livin' on Route 66

  4. #4
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    Brake lines bent, ran, and mounted. Using a Wilwood proportioning valve.











    Last edited by dmw56; 08-18-2009 at 07:19 PM.
    Livin' on Route 66

  5. #5
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    Paint and body work completed.













    Livin' on Route 66

  6. #6
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Engine and transmission installed in chassis.





    Shortened drive shaft in.



    Minneapolis Moline Z grille shell and aluminum radiator installed.



    Detail shots of the front suspension, steering, and brakes. All new or rebuilt components to make sure everthing is reliable and safe.





    Completed rolling chassis.

    Livin' on Route 66

  7. #7
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Body set on frame. Channeled 4".



    Header on the engine. Exhaust tips are for VWs. Fit a 1 1/2" pipe perfectly.





    Corvette manual brake master cylinder.

    Livin' on Route 66

  8. #8
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    Great job of detailing the chop process. It will be useful when I attempt the chop of the 35. You obviously had to add the same amount of filler to the top of the door frame to equal the gap you had in the roof, correct? Did you use a piece of the material that you cut off the door frame? That all has to be done to keep the winshield posts on the same angle, right? I hope you understand what I am asking.

  9. #9
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuhll View Post
    Great job of detailing the chop process. It will be useful when I attempt the chop of the 35. You obviously had to add the same amount of filler to the top of the door frame to equal the gap you had in the roof, correct? Did you use a piece of the material that you cut off the door frame? That all has to be done to keep the winshield posts on the same angle, right? I hope you understand what I am asking.
    Yes the piece I cut out of the door in the front was welded back in the top of the door frame to lengthen it.

    You can also tilt the "A" pillar of the cab back and the "A' pillar of the roof foreward so you won't have to splice a piece in the roof. You will need to do the same with the doors. It will give it a more aggressive look.
    Livin' on Route 66

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by dmw56 View Post
    Yes the piece I cut out of the door in the front was welded back in the top of the door frame to lengthen it.

    You can also tilt the "A" pillar of the cab back and the "A' pillar of the roof foreward so you won't have to splice a piece in the roof. You will need to do the same with the doors. It will give it a more aggressive look.
    Would you do that by cutting a "V" notch at the base of the pillars? Seems like that would be easier than adding a piece to the roof.

  11. #11
    dmw56's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by tuhll View Post
    Would you do that by cutting a "V" notch at the base of the pillars? Seems like that would be easier than adding a piece to the roof.
    Yes, or I've seen them cut a slit lengthwise in front of the windshield on top of the cowl.
    Livin' on Route 66

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