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Thread: Engine Test Stand
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    rocknrod's Avatar
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    Engine Test Stand

     



    Does anyone know of someone who sells engine test stands or have one they wish to sell ?
    Thanks

  2. #2
    Don Shillady's Avatar
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    Funny you should mention this just as I am looking at an ad for engine stands by Cummins Industrial Tools: $29.99 to hold 750 pounds and another to hold 1250 pounds for $49.99. It seems to me there are many other places which offer similar items such as Auto Zone, Advanced Auto, Sears etc. The Cummins store has a web site at:

    www.cumminstools.com

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder
    Last edited by Don Shillady; 06-30-2004 at 09:57 PM.

  3. #3
    Matt167's Avatar
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    Probabbly be able to modify 1 of those assembly stands to be able to run the motor. Seems all you would need to do is mount an extesion on the front to accomadate a radiator, then put an ignition start switch and kill switch on a panal up higher than the motor welded to the frame. May even be able to weld 2 walmart floor jacks to the outside frame sides ( supports also ) and connect the 2 hydraclic jack arms togther with some kinda linkage so you could set it on the ground for testing and jack it up for moving.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

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  4. #4
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    I had designed one last year that was based off of an engine stand. I will see if I can find the drawings again or make new ones for you, if you want.
    1949 Plymouth Club Coupe Still in pieces.
    1979 International Scout Travler with SOA, 345 Engine and 727 AT

  5. #5
    pro70z28's Avatar
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    Re: Engine Test Stand

     



    Originally posted by rocknrod
    Does anyone know of someone who sells engine test stands or have one they wish to sell ?
    Thanks
    A dyno would work nice.

    Lil' expensive maybe.
    "PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
    "LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.

    John 3:16
    >>>>>>

  6. #6
    1stGenCamaro is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I fired my last small block and tested it on a assembly stand that was real beefy. I braced the bottom of the engine with skids and mounted a rad in front on a stand. I started it by arcing the starter. Very simple... the stand was an aviation stand, very large and flips the engine over with a crank so it's real nice to use. It was meant for big diesel engines so I figured no problem....When i cracked the throttle with the open long tube headers on that stand it was pure satisfaction....especially to see it twist that stand like it was cardboard.
    I'd rather go fast than worry about the gas mileage.

  7. #7
    rocknrod's Avatar
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    Re: That word "TERMINOLOGY again...

     



    Originally posted by Streets
    There is a difference betwixt engine stands and engine test stands.. Engine stands are where you only assemble the engines..
    Engine test stands are where you actually "Run-in" the engine. the test stand can also double as an "assembly stand" whereby the engine stand can't..

    http://www.mightymount.com/

    http://www.hotrodparts.com/chev.htm

    http://www.hotrodparts.com/cad500.htm

    "TEST" Stand below...
    Now THOSE are engine test stands ! "Thanks" big guy.
    Also, using an engine stand could work. I just did not want to
    get a welder involved (since I dont own one).
    Thanks again.

  8. #8
    Don Shillady's Avatar
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    I stand corrected on the difference between an engine stand and an engine test stand, BUT I got a lot of ideas. I was wondering how to keep the engine from going "dry" while I assemble the body. Spinning the oil pump every so often will probably keep the bearing surfaces oiled, but I want to keep the cylinder walls lubricated as well so the idea I got from this thread is to get the radiator installed ASAP and then my rolling chassis can be my engine test stand and I should be able to run the engine every month or so; expecially since there is no drive shaft yet. Thanks!

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder

  9. #9
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    I kinda' like the plan of buildin' the engine "after" the car is built.
    "PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
    "LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.

    John 3:16
    >>>>>>

  10. #10
    Don Shillady's Avatar
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    On the other hand I kind'a like the idea of installing the body after the connections are worked out standing over the chassis rather than the time-honored work under the body AND (!) I can chunk out the cost of individual parts and install them piecemeal compared to a large piece of change all at once for the 'glass body. Anyhow, I just thought I can use the chassis as a test stand and save time. I have to study the break-in procedure and WHY NOT go through the break-in with only the trans without the drive shaft? I just know I need to lube the cam with the right stuff, use good oil and change the oil after the break-in. I let you guys heckle me because I really have not worked on a SBC before and I do have a lot of questions, but this is certainly not the first engine I have rebuilt and the general procedures should be the same. I am merely pointing out that you might as well use the chassis as the engine test stand if the body is not there yet.
    Over the years I have seen many other rods built as rolling chassis in several car magazines; it looks like one way which works to me!

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder

  11. #11
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    Originally posted by Don Shillady
    WHY NOT go through the break-in with only the trans without the drive shaft?
    The 350 tans. might leak tranny fliud w/o a yoke in the tailshaft to stop it? Maybe you could put the driveshaft in and build a saddle for the rear end to keep the rear wheels just off the floor. ( Somethin' more stable than just jack stands). Then you could run it in park and/or drive to run everything.
    "PLAN" your life like you will live to 120.
    "LIVE" your life like you could die tomorrow.

    John 3:16
    >>>>>>

  12. #12
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    How about hooking it all up like Pro said then tie a string or somthing to the carb linkage then find a way to steer it, you could drive it around and terrorize your naighbors if you live in the boonies.
    You don't know what you've got til it's gone

    Matt's 1951 Chevy Fleetline- Driver

    1967 Ford Falcon- Sold

    1930's styled hand built ratrod project

    1974 Volkswagen Super Beetle Wolfsburg Edition- sold

  13. #13
    Don Shillady's Avatar
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    The Vega box and cross steering is already there, Yee Haa!

    Don Shillady

  14. #14
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    To get back to the original question you might want to take a look at this discussion: http://www.hotrodders.com/t42339.html

  15. #15
    Don Shillady's Avatar
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    Restorod is right, that is a slick TEST stand. To answer Streets, I can't see putting that much effort into a stand-alone test stand when I have only so much time to get my car together. Maybe for a shop which will use the stand for many engines that would be a good idea, but I am trying to follow what I have seen in Rod magazines for many years, build a rolling chassis, test the engine in the chassis and then fit the body. I can only say that my Financial V.P. (wife) will very likely not accept an unfinished car so that is pressure from another source to get the car totally finished and I was just kidding about the "Yee Hah!", I do not plan to run the car without the body, although I do have a long driveway!

    Don Shillady
    Retired Scientist/teen rodder

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