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  • 1 Post By rspears
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Thread: Rattlecan epoxy
          
   
   

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  1. #1
    firebird77clone's Avatar
    firebird77clone is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    Rattlecan epoxy

     



    I seem to remember a thread a ways back which discussed "appliance epoxy" rattlecan paint.

    If I recall, it isn't a true epoxy or it would have set up in the can.

    Anyway, what is it? It is very different from other spray enamel rattlecan. It is more sticky and thicker. It certainly seems a more robust product.

    Any information is welcome.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  2. #2
    rspears's Avatar
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    There is a two part epoxy primer available in aerosol (rattle) cans, but it has a "button" that you push to release the catalyst, and once released you have to use what you want out of the can within a fairly short period or it will set up in the can as a block. Anything that says "epoxy primer" that you just shake and spray is not a true two part epoxy.
    Last edited by rspears; 02-02-2016 at 07:14 AM.
    36 sedan likes this.
    Roger
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  3. #3
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    This is the one I'm aware of, although I've read where some Paint Stores can do the same? (not sure about the last part)-

    Eastwood's 2K AeroSpray
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  4. #4
    rspears's Avatar
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    My paint guy sells a pre-packaged aerosol can of two part epoxy (don't know the brand), but he cannot mix & fill a two part can.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  5. #5
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    you are far ahead by just brushing or rolling a good epoxy on.
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  6. #6
    rspears's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by firebird77clone View Post
    I seem to remember a thread a ways back which discussed "appliance epoxy" rattlecan paint.

    If I recall, it isn't a true epoxy or it would have set up in the can.

    Anyway, what is it? It is very different from other spray enamel rattlecan. It is more sticky and thicker. It certainly seems a more robust product.

    Any information is welcome.
    If you Google "appliance epoxy primer" it takes you to Rustoleum products, and on the Rustoleum web site you find this product description:
    Rust-Oleum® Specialty Appliance Epoxy is an ultra-hard, moisture resistance enamel that is specifically formulated for indoor metal surfaces. It provides a smooth, washable surface for refinishing the exterior of appliances such as refrigerators, dishwashers, laundry machines, and other indoor metal applications (cabinets, tables). Do not use on objects exposed to heat (stovetops, oven interiors, etc)
    Indoor use only
    It's not a two part epoxy, and clearly is not for exposure to the elements. So if you're planning to keep your car indoors, on display it might be OK.
    Link - Specialty Appliance Epoxy Spray Product Page
    34_40 likes this.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  7. #7
    firebird77clone's Avatar
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    I looked at a lot of reviews.
    Apparently, it doesn't hold its finish against UVs.

    Lots of folks use it on chassy parts to good result.
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

  8. #8
    chopt50wgn is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    I wouldn't use it on a fender or any body part needing a topcoat. I used the Eastwood 2 part mentioned by 35window for my chassis parts with also using Eastwoods chassis black and it looks good.

  9. #9
    rspears's Avatar
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    I'd say you'd be much better off following Shine's advice, mix what you need and brush or roll it on your chassis.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  10. #10
    firebird77clone's Avatar
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    I'll have to look into a can of the good stuff.

    Meanwhile the Vega got bashed in a parking lot.
    I did the grunt work, and his insurance will pay the body shop to finish it out. There was too much damage: insurance wouldn't have covered a proper repair. The inner cowl got bashed in, I pulled that using my stud welder. The bottom of the cowl was rotten, I patched that. Then I bumped the fender out, and found an old rust repair at the bottom corner which had to be redone. So I did all that, and shot the inside of the fender and cowl with the appliance paint, I'm sure it will be fine. Now it's all back together, I've got about ten hours wrapped up in it.

    Off to the body shop next!
    .
    Education is expensive. Keep that in mind, and you'll never be terribly upset when a project goes awry.
    EG

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