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Thread: whats a good price on a paint job
          
   
   

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  1. #46
    randyr's Avatar
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    Did that work, Roger?
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  2. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    Did that work, Roger?
    Yes! Thanks for sending the updated link. I'd been looking at those blocks, even looked at them at GG Des Moines but this is a better deal!
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  3. #48
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    roger, think about making your own blocks. i've found cardboard tube and hardwoods make excellent blocks. i have around 20 blocks i've made over the years. several to sharpen body lines . i have one that will hold 2 sheets of board paper that i used on the big boats of the 60's . impala qrt panels were a real pia to do .

  4. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by shine View Post
    roger, think about making your own blocks. i've found cardboard tube and hardwoods make excellent blocks. i have around 20 blocks i've made over the years. several to sharpen body lines . i have one that will hold 2 sheets of board paper that i used on the big boats of the 60's . impala qrt panels were a real pia to do .
    Shine, what do you use on the curves of the fat fendered Fords?
    rspears likes this.
    "It is not much good thinking of a thing unless you think it out." - H.G. Wells

  5. #50
    pat mccarthy's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by randyr View Post
    Shine, what do you use on the curves of the fat fendered Fords?
    not shine but a will add my two cents . i have made up some board s and sanding block s wood and 1/4 plate aluminum round off all corners the block should feel like a old bar of soap in you hand .on board s never make some thing you can not hang on to for a long time as you need it to work but not bulky to work with. when you could get thick flat paint stick s we used them in the 220 wet sanding part of the job. then med hard bock then soft pad all the time using a guide coat threw evey sanding set . starting the body work with long board s hard then a flex long boad cross sanding the body panles at 45 angles .i done many round things this way always work for me
    Last edited by pat mccarthy; 07-08-2012 at 09:45 PM.
    Irish Diplomacy ..the ability to tell someone to go to Hell ,,So that they will look forward to to the trip

  6. #51
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    on rounded fenders i use the soft 1x1 durablock. before they came out i had some pieces of truck mud flaps that worked really good. still have them. some things you just have to sculpture.

  7. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by shine View Post
    on rounded fenders i use the soft 1x1 durablock. before they came out i had some pieces of truck mud flaps that worked really good. still have them. some things you just have to sculpture.
    The owner of my paint shop (40 year painter, followed his Dad in the business, supplies Roger Ward with product) pushed me to the Eastwood hard foam blocks with the stiffening rods. He can't get them to sell - sells Durablock because people buy them but told me that he doesn't like them because they wrinkle the stick on paper on curves. Said he bought the set from Eastwood, and it's about all he uses now. I've got a handful of foam "sponges" that I use, and often go into the woodshop and cut a chunk of walnut or other hardwood to fit a need, but I haven't taken time to make any pretty enough to keep... I looked at some really nicely made maple blocks at one of the shows, handles like wood planes on the bigger ones, some with thin foam on the bottom, some with aluminum like Pat mentions, but was put off by their price and the fact that they didn't flex.
    Roger
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  8. #53
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    besides the 2 durablocks i have not bought a block in 30 years or so. i prefer to make my own. each has it's purpose. i have a set for corvette's only. 2 blocks for repairing the body line peaks after some moron had got on it with a da sander. i dont know how many cars i have had to fix because of some wannabe half destroying them with a da.
    blocking is an art . every one will differ on how. what ever works for you is the best to use.

  9. #54
    Southernboss84 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
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    hey guys whats a good brand of sealer and i noticed there is a guy around the corner for me some of his work is good and some is b/s like i was looking down the side of one of his trucks that he finished and it look like he had bloches down the side of it kinda like where there might have been little rockchips along the side of the truck and he put eaither filler or some bondo in and and didnt get it sanded down enough before he painted it and it looks like sh** i dont want mine to turn out like that at all

  10. #55
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    Whats a good brand of adhesive sand paper for the durablocks? Also what grits would you guys recogmend? Thanks.
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  11. #56
    IC2
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    Quote Originally Posted by stovens View Post
    Whats a good brand of adhesive sand paper for the durablocks? Also what grits would you guys recogmend? Thanks.
    Steve - I never use anything but a good wet 'n' dry paper and used wet. The adhesive stuff is, IMO, a pain for anything but a D-A or grinder. Once the block is wet, it wont stick anyhow.

    Paper - 80 to 2500, Norton or Mirka, then if they aren't easily available, the overpriced and , IMO, lesser quality, 3m.

    These are just some of my blocks. My favorites are some I made up from some 1/2" closed cell neoprene foam I had left over. I glued 2-3 pieces together just for some additional thickness - there are some single thicknesses shown in the photo, RHS plus some different diameters of rubber tubing. Then wood blocks - oak or maple

    Sanding-blocks.jpg
    Dave W
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  12. #57
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    Thanks Dave. I bought a similar set almost two years ago and have never used them. Our local store has wet dry paper, so I guess that's what I'll endup using. The adhesive stuff is very expensive!
    " "No matter where you go, there you are!" Steve.

  13. #58
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    I've been told to always prime bare metal, apply any filler and then to sand filler/bondo dry because it wicks moisture like a sponge and takes forever to dry out. One reason to always prime first, then fill, then prime again. Filler over bare metal makes a future rust pocket. Is my understanding correct, from others experience?
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  14. #59
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    always epoxy first then filler . added protection and adhesion.

    and remember not all epoxies are the same.

  15. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by shine View Post
    always epoxy first then filler . added protection and adhesion.

    and remember not all epoxies are the same.
    And you sand filler dry, shine, ending with ~220?
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

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