Welcome to Club Hot Rod!  The premier site for everything to do with Hot Rod, Customs, Low Riders, Rat Rods, and more. 

  •  » Members from all over the US and the world!
  •  » Help from all over the world for your questions
  •  » Build logs for you and all members
  •  » Blogs
  •  » Image Gallery
  •  » Many thousands of members and hundreds of thousands of posts! 

YES! I want to register an account for free right now!  p.s.: For registered members this ad will NOT show

 

Thread: surface pits
          
   
   

Reply To Thread
Results 1 to 11 of 11
  1. #1
    fisheasy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Roanoke Rapids
    Posts
    44

    surface pits

     



    how do you guys fill in pits in the metal? do you try and sand them out? is bondo what comes in affect? Just trying to see what the right way about doing it is.

  2. #2
    Trjohn57's Avatar
    Trjohn57 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Brandon
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1969 GTO 455 78 FLH 37 Pontiac
    Posts
    504

    That really depends on what the pits are in.
    Depending on door handles, doors, etc.

  3. #3
    rspears's Avatar
    rspears is offline CHR Member/Contributor Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    Gardner, KS
    Car Year, Make, Model: '33 HiBoy Coupe, '32 HiBoy Roadster
    Posts
    10,989

    Quote Originally Posted by fisheasy View Post
    how do you guys fill in pits in the metal? do you try and sand them out? is bondo what comes in affect? Just trying to see what the right way about doing it is.
    If you're talking sheet metal I would say a skim coat of bondo or finish putty, block sand it smooth and shoot it.
    Roger
    Enjoy the little things in life, and you may look back one day and realize that they were really the BIG things.

  4. #4
    fisheasy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Roanoke Rapids
    Posts
    44

    yeah sorry for not being more specific. I am talking the roof or the fender. things like that on the older sheet metal cars

  5. #5
    PRO53's Avatar
    PRO53 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Nov 2006
    Location
    tomball
    Car Year, Make, Model: 1930 sedan,1953 f-100,1950 sedan
    Posts
    239

    Mine was full of pits, If no body work is needed and there not that deep Metal glaze(evercoat) works good, but if body work is needed use a good body quality filler, like Rage. And I am not an Evercoat rep
    1930 model a , 1953 ford truck
    "DOWN WITH THE SICKNESS"

  6. #6
    roadster32's Avatar
    roadster32 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    watford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 26T Coupe, 32 Roadster, 41 Willys Coupe
    Posts
    2,363

    If not to deep i use a 2k stopper
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

  7. #7
    IC2
    IC2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    UPSTATE New York
    Posts
    4,336

    First, you need to make sure there is NO/NADA/NONE rust in those pits - rust never sleeps and will ruin a perfect paint job quickly. I can hear someone say it's encapsulated - wrong - rust is iron oxide with oxide being oxygen by a different name. There is IMHO, only one way to remove that rust and that's by a media media blast by someone that can do it without deforming the base steel. Sanding can not clean out rust in pits. I have heard Naval Jelly works - but I haven't tried it nor will I. Rustoleum and POR-15 wont do the job either tho there are some advocates here of that stuff -

    Next, I apply a good epoxy primer as soon as possible after blasting - i.e. the same day if possible, the next at the latest. I like SPI, but there are others about as good, but as the SPI is a sanding epoxy, it works very well for the Joe Average home car builder. (PPG epoxy has some problems - it can be removed with regular lacquer thinner, DuPont/Nason are hard and not a sanding epoxy but a finishing primer - it needs to be top coated within 24 hours).

    Once you get a clean and sealed surface, then you can do whatever bodywork is needed. Evercoat Rage or Gold is great stuff, but on pits, a high build spray polyester can work miracles.

    And yes, the AVATAR was done pretty much that way, tho I didn't have pits
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  8. #8
    roadster32's Avatar
    roadster32 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Apr 2009
    Location
    watford
    Car Year, Make, Model: 26T Coupe, 32 Roadster, 41 Willys Coupe
    Posts
    2,363

    Totally agree Dave, very good advice, The only thing i would be wary of is the Polyester, If you mean the spray putty it sucks up moisture like a sponge and needs sealing as soon as possible, Microblistering seems to go hand in hand with this stuff


    Quote Originally Posted by IC2 View Post
    First, you need to make sure there is NO/NADA/NONE rust in those pits - rust never sleeps and will ruin a perfect paint job quickly. I can hear someone say it's encapsulated - wrong - rust is iron oxide with oxide being oxygen by a different name. There is IMHO, only one way to remove that rust and that's by a media media blast by someone that can do it without deforming the base steel. Sanding can not clean out rust in pits. I have heard Naval Jelly works - but I haven't tried it nor will I. Rustoleum and POR-15 wont do the job either tho there are some advocates here of that stuff -

    Next, I apply a good epoxy primer as soon as possible after blasting - i.e. the same day if possible, the next at the latest. I like SPI, but there are others about as good, but as the SPI is a sanding epoxy, it works very well for the Joe Average home car builder. (PPG epoxy has some problems - it can be removed with regular lacquer thinner, DuPont/Nason are hard and not a sanding epoxy but a finishing primer - it needs to be top coated within 24 hours).

    Once you get a clean and sealed surface, then you can do whatever bodywork is needed. Evercoat Rage or Gold is great stuff, but on pits, a high build spray polyester can work miracles.

    And yes, the AVATAR was done pretty much that way, tho I didn't have pits
    Its aweful lonesome in the saddle since my horse died.

  9. #9
    IC2
    IC2 is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2007
    Location
    UPSTATE New York
    Posts
    4,336

    Quote Originally Posted by roadster32 View Post
    Totally agree Dave, very good advice, The only thing i would be wary of is the Polyester, If you mean the spray putty it sucks up moisture like a sponge and needs sealing as soon as possible, Microblistering seems to go hand in hand with this stuff
    Steve - I only apply it over epoxy primer which will do my sealing - then out comes the 280-320/400 wet and dry and a bucket of water for the maxi-mega hours of sanding and sanding then some more.....sanding Then of course, on goes some more epoxy to cover those spots that I sanded through to metal then if necessary, more polyester or high build 2K primer, some more - you guessed it - sanding.Then when I'm happy with the surface prep, a full wet coat or two of 2K, a final wet sand with 600 or 800 then it's paint time, and I do like BC/CC

    Now - I'm tired just thinking about all that..........zzzzzzzzzzzzzzzzz
    Dave W
    I am now gone from this forum for now - finally have pulled the plug

  10. #10
    fisheasy is offline CHR Member Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Sep 2010
    Location
    Roanoke Rapids
    Posts
    44

    great information. thanks a lot for taking the time and walking me through the process. when some of you guys have powder coated your chassis do you have to prep the pits or does the powder coating take care of it
    Last edited by fisheasy; 10-19-2010 at 04:58 PM.

  11. #11
    sunsetdart is offline Banned Visit my Photo Gallery
    Join Date
    Feb 2010
    Location
    Pottstown
    Posts
    441

    Pits in metal can be fixed to be powder coated, but they either must be filled with an all metal filler or fill welded. Powder coat will only bond to a clean metal surface and it won't bond to any fiberglass filler.

Reply To Thread

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
Links monetized by VigLink