Thread: g2 feather fill

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I have this primer, and it sands well, but it lays down so rough. it sands nice, but now i'm working door jams hood and trunk, you just can't sand in all those curvs and corners. my qustion is can i thin and rase air pressure enough to make that stuff lay flat.hlpv spray gun 5.0 tip. any suggestions?

I have had the same problem in the past. I'm not the best guy to give you spray paint advice but you need to check the air pressure pattern adjustment at the gun as well as the liquid flow adjustment.

If you tried painting this past weekend in So-Cal, it was HOT and you might need to thin out the primer some so it does not dry as soon as it hits the surface. I shot PPG high build two part primer on my frame on Sunday and had to use just a little acetone to slow it down for it to lay down and smooth out.

I'm sure someone will explain it in better terms.

Feather fill is meant to go on thick and be sanded...I'd suggest you use a different primer on the jams and other pieces that don't require a high build primer.....

I get good advice from you guy's on this site, thank you. g2 is all i have to work with, so i thined it about 3 to 1 and shoot it at about 80 lbs under the hood. i've been sanding for days with 400 dry, but i'ts not as bad as as shooting it stright with 45 lbs. still time consuming, i plan on covering showing metal with eatch primer in a can 3m and applying bc\cc

any body have any tips on ppg clear going down without alot of orange peel

Originally Posted by craig akiyama

any body have any tips on ppg clear going down without alot of orange peel

Yep ---- Pour it on the way ya want it to look.

Which clear are you using?????

dcu 2010 ppg 2.1 speed clear

No absolutes, depends a lot on the gun you use and your own motion and overlap when you apply it....

With my old musty trusty DeVilbiss, I use a 1.4 tip and a medium wide pattern...no idea what air pressure, I still set the pressure by the sound of the gun, but it's an HVLP gun, I suppose it's probably around 10 psi at the cap...

I let it setup at least 24 hours, then wet sand with 2000, 2500, and Trizac 3000. For compound, I've been using some Meguiar's with a wool pad and like it very much, followed by a glaze and polish with a black waffle pad.

Results and technique is not a cut and dried issue... If 10 guys respond, you'll get 10 different methods and materials.... I go by the product sheet, then make a few necessary adjustments to suit me....

were probably pretty closeto being on the same page, THANK'S

layed some clear in inner parts of hood and trunk had some runs in base coat sanded them out, then layed the clear making it look how i liked it had a little runing but dam almost no orange peel and proble none on horazontal plans. left garage door open and hardly any problems with dust. i was satisfied.

Originally Posted by craig akiyama

layed some clear in inner parts of hood and trunk had some runs in base coat sanded them out, then layed the clear making it look how i liked it had a little runing but dam almost no orange peel and proble none on horazontal plans. left garage door open and hardly any problems with dust. i was satisfied.

Sounds like it came out good, glad it all worked out well for you Craig!!! and remember, if it was easy, everyone would be doing it!!!!!!!!!!

I have added a little reducer to the clear to make it pay down better, especially in hot weather.