Thread: Finish sanding

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My personal preference is to first use 2 pack Epoxy primer and overcoat wet on wet with 2 pack hi build tinted to the colour of the car, that way any stonechips don't show so bad.

Originally Posted by IC2

Speaking only for myself, light, medium or dark depending on the BC or SS

Originally Posted by roadster32

My personal preference is to first use 2 pack Epoxy primer and overcoat wet on wet with 2 pack hi build tinted to the colour of the car, that way any stonechips don't show so bad.

This is what I used on my current build:
1- Nason and SPI epoxy primers (in this amount: 1qt Nason(Wescott front fenders, er wings only),5qts SPI, the rest of the steel Brookville body - Nason can't be sanded, SPI can)
2- SPI 2K primer - 1 gallon
3- Polyester high build primer - 1 gallon (sorry, I don't recall the brand, but it was recommended by a pro on another site)
4- Rage Gold filler - 1 gallon (half plus left)
5- DuPont ChromaBase 7 quarts
6- SPI Universal Clear 7 quarts
7- Presta 1500 to cut
8- Presta Swirl remover to buff
9- Rolls of 3M tape - guesstimate 4-5
10- Wet and Dry Sandpaper in grits - 80(a lot - I had to go to bare metal). 3-4 packages each of 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. All was either 3M or Norton and a bit of Mirka (my favorite and a bit less then 3M)

And yep, tinting is the best way - I just don't do it. As you probably have found out - we don't have rough highways nor any chance of stone chips as the paving is smooth as silk, always maintained on our side of the Atlantic (now if you believe that, I have some very nice land in Florida..........)

The last 2 cars i've painted i've put 2 coats of epoxy over the hi build bfore top coat and they seem to be a lot more resilient to stone chips, Not sure why but they definitly are, both have been on the road now for 2 years without any chips.

Originally Posted by IC2

This is what I used on my current build:
1- Nason and SPI epoxy primers (in this amount: 1qt Nason(Wescott front fenders, er wings only),5qts SPI, the rest of the steel Brookville body - Nason can't be sanded, SPI can)
2- SPI 2K primer - 1 gallon
3- Polyester high build primer - 1 gallon (sorry, I don't recall the brand, but it was recommended by a pro on another site),
4- Rage Gold filler - 1 gallon (half plus left)
5- DuPont ChromaBase 7 quarts
6- SPI Universal Clear 7 quarts
7- Presta 1500 to cut
8- Presta Swirl remover to buff
9- Rolls of 3M tape - guesstimate 4-5
10- Wet and Dry Sandpaper in grits - 80(a lot - I had to go to bare metal). 3-4 packages each of 220, 400, 600, 800, 1000, 1500, 2000. All was either 3M or Norton and a bit of Mirka (my favorite and a bit less then 3M)

And yep, tinting is the best way - I just don't do it. As you probably have found out - we don't have rough highways nor any chance of stone chips as the paving is smooth as silk, always maintained on our side of the Atlantic (now if you believe that, I have some very nice land in Florida..........)

It probably provides a bit of cushioning effect with the added build. Some folks here just use multiple coats of epoxy with no poly/2K high build. The best that I've found here is the Southern Polyurethanes (SPI) which can be easily sanded for several days before it gets really tough then it takes some effort. It's like the high build polyester but a heluva lot stronger after final cure. When putting mine together, I nicked a couple of spots of the BC/CC but never even made a mark in the epoxy.

Originally Posted by roadster32

Do you guys over there not tint your primers body colour ???

yep i said i tinted the last to coats of primer .i did this some times used the ppg k36 i would use it as a sanding tint sealer but alot of times i just did not tint the primer if a good cover color .in the shop i work at i was painting evey day so you knew real fast what paint would not cover and there s a deal with the more solvent you hit the car body or that your painting with the move solvents are going to dive in and move stuff this is were getting all the body work done before you prime . with out all that poly putty sitting on the primer then moving around when your solvents dive in
if i walk round the car more then 4 times with a soild paint or clear then i would cut it flat and put more color on or clear this help s to so your not piling all the thinners on at the same time and when you cut the paint that helps let them get out as well but this was some time ago i know with the V.O.C theres less thinners .but you still have to watch them. that is were how fine you sand up to comes in to play as well. hirer the paint is cut with thinner or slower it drys . the finer you would go up with the paper

I am painting my car in acrylic single pack violet metalic, I have got the first coat of violet on the car and am reasonably happy with the coverage, I was wondering if i wet sand with say 600 or 800 wet can i mix the violet 50/50 with the clear or am i better off hitting it with another coat of the violet and then follow up with a couple of coats of clear.
How long should i leave the violet before i put the clear on, 10 mins 30 mins ? just fishing for answers, I am only new to this and having fun working on my own car and learning along the way.
cheers barnsey.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ob/violet2.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ob/violet1.jpg

sorry double post

barnsey you don't mix the base with the lacquer, put the base on and when its flashed denib if needed and go on with the lacquer, most of the basecoats here in the U.K. say you have a 36 hour window before it needs rekeying, personally i don't like leaving it any longer than i have to.

Originally Posted by barnsey

I am painting my car in acrylic single pack violet metalic, I have got the first coat of violet on the car and am reasonably happy with the coverage, I was wondering if i wet sand with say 600 or 800 wet can i mix the violet 50/50 with the clear or am i better off hitting it with another coat of the violet and then follow up with a couple of coats of clear.
How long should i leave the violet before i put the clear on, 10 mins 30 mins ? just fishing for answers, I am only new to this and having fun working on my own car and learning along the way.
cheers barnsey.
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ob/violet2.jpg
http://i12.photobucket.com/albums/a2...ob/violet1.jpg

Barnsey - beautiful color that even as partially color blind can tell it's violet.

I agree with roadster 32 - don't mix. If you need to, hit with another coat of color then with the clear. Mixing of possibly dissimilar chemicals (color and clear) could possibly ruin some very expensive product, including maybe what you have on the car. When the color and clear are properly applied on a car, they will bond chemically as well as mechanically if applied within the time frame allowed though. Just follow the information either that is on the can or a spec separate sheet. Get us some photos as you go along - it looks great!!

thanks for the replies, I am moving into a new house in about a week and a bit, so i am going to hold off on the paint until then, the new house has a double gararge and a concrete floor, unlike the seven bay shed i have now that has a gravel and dirt floor.I will keep you guys updated as i go, i am still new here and don't want to over do my welcome. I have lots of photos of the rebuild, so i might start a rebuild album. with detailed photos of the body and chassis, suspension mods and also the build up of the new engine.
cheers barnsey