Thread: sem rustshield

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has anyone used this before ,and what did you thing of it thanks

after checkin out the product data sheet it sorta looks like por15 to me if you guys have that over there, with por15 you get rid of the rust and prep steel as per usual but dont worry too much if theres still some rust pitting in there you just paint it on, dont need to etch prime, dont degrease with prepsol or solvent based degreasers and dont rust kill or itll affect adhesion, just paint, 2 coats. how it cures is it absorbes the moisture outa the rust on the steel and in the air and cures rock hard so only buy as much as you need to do the job and use it quick cos once you open it and it contacts the air it wont last long. it should last the day but may not overnight depending on humidity. when ive used it in the shops ive worked in we just sand blasted chassis and suspension components and brushed it on rather than spraying because if you got a dodgy moisture trap the moisture goin through the air line could set it off in your gun if you dont clean it properly, clean up with ordinary 2way thinner or gunwash, put plastic over the top of the paint tin and put the lid back on and store it in the smoko room fridge to prolong pot life, comes out shiny like top coat when catalysed, cant flat and buff it its too hard not really a need to, cant really key it for other paint over top its too hard. it doesnt matter putting it on rust, anything can be used as a rust protection because it seals it from air and moisture stoppin the rust carryin on, just depends how long whatever you use takes to break down and let moisture through, (primer surfacers for example are porous and left long time exposed to weather can still rust underneath, even epoxy wont last forever), and this stuff is tough! you can hit it with a hammer and it wont chip, really wont break down. excellent for use on chassis, parts under the car and on the top side of surface rusted floor pans and surface rusty interior roof panels etc like i did on mine but on the body id stick to using an automotive paint system so yea if its what it looks like to me and what i think it is its like the por15 product i just described. if you catalyse it remember to use your positive air respirator same as with all 2 pack paints or you could be in hospital the night of doing it, and if you aint doin it in the booth or somewhere warm it could help to warm the substrate with some heat lamps or a heat gun depending on job size just so it aint cold to touch, thatll aid flash off.