I'm gonna sound like a fool but what the hell. IT LOOKS EASY!Any pointers would be greatly appreciated Thanks
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I'm gonna sound like a fool but what the hell. IT LOOKS EASY!Any pointers would be greatly appreciated Thanks
Seriously, go to your local community college and see if they have autobody in their industrial arts program. Tuition should be pretty cheap and you get instruction plus the use of all their tools and paint booth.
ITS NOT EASY, at least not as easy as they make it look on Overhaulin'. Most of the work is in the preparation.
Pat
It ain't easy.Quote:
Originally Posted by like2gofast
It takes a lot of work
It takes a fair level of tools
It takes a fair amount of money
It takes days to months to do right
Now, with that said, there are a couple of pretty good books published by HP which is a good starting point.
Then we need to talk about tools, equipment and paints:
A minimum 10cfm compressor, but bigger is better. A mid range price HVLP spray gun. A DA (dual action) sander is very handy. If you have rust, a mig or gas welder is needed. A set of hand tools is necessary. Several different sizes and shapes sanding blocks are needed. Sand paper from 80 to 2000 grit will be needed - and that starts at about a buck a sheet to about $2 - and 75 - 100 for a good job. Then there are the fillers and primers - and these depend on the body condition - 2K primers start at about $20 a quart and go up, filler is $40 gallon and up. Then the paint - base coat with clear coat for protection is the best - and many of them are toxic without the proper protection. These paints are very expensive - primers from $30/quart and up, base coats from $400 gallon and (mostly) up, clear coats from $100 a gallon.
Now - still interested? Remember seeing all those cars with splotches of primer on them? These are the folks who didn't know what it would take to paint a car right. We can and will help, but getting this out on the table first can save a lot of later grief
Quote:
Originally Posted by like2gofast
That's what I thought when I painted my S-10
Spraying the paint wasn't that hard, the surface prep was!
The truck turned out looking like s***!!! On the plus side I learned a lot of things "not to do" . Have since read several books on the subject, and bought better equipment to work with.
When my next project comes, I'm gonna be ready!!!;)
I once painted a Chevelle (a lot o' years ago). I read all the books, removed chrome and trim, sanded and primed (primer looked real good). Prepared the surface for the final coat and shot the color. I used a compressor that was too small and could not keep up with the paint as it flashed.
It looked real bad.. I was very disappointed and at the time several hundred dollars poorer! In the end, I swallowed my pride and took the car to a shop where the guy immediately sized the situation and took care of my mess. I put the chrome back on and the car looked great. If I hadn't received orders to go overseas, got married and had four kids, I'd probably still have that car!
With the new HVLP guns (a good one is a Binks HVLP — Model SV100, about $150 from several on-line sources) , the minimum compressor size needs to produce 10cfm at +/- 40psi. More is better. The Binks gun needs 10-14cfm at 25-27psi. You have to have a compressor that keeps up with the gun or you will experience what happened to me - the paint will flash and as you lay on additional material it will be rough. The compressor needs to be a constant duty - 220 volt is certainly better than 110 if your shop is equipped with such.
The air needs to be very well filtered as well to keep contaminates from entering the gun (clogs up the works) or worse, splotching out with the material on the finish.
A spotless, well vented enclosure with gobs of finely filtered fresh air is a must. You can fabricate a "poor mans paint booth" using 1 x 2 wood framing and clear plastic with box fans and furnace filters. However, you need more than a respirator, you need lots of fresh air too because we do not want to read your obituary!
If you want to give it a go, look at this web site - http://www.paintforcars.com They have a great selection of material for substantially less money as well as a help section and a lot of customer testimonials. They have a wide selection of acrylic enamels, lacquers, and urethane clear coat finishes.
Good luck my friend!
Every word of advice given to you above is absolutely the truth. Fact is, shooting the paint is the easiest part of the procedure, a trained monkey could hold the gun and shoot some color on a car. The tough part, as mentioned above, is the proper preparation of your car, making sure the paint is going onto as straight of a substrate as possible, and that it adheres.
Modern paints have made it easier, and with a little planning and a lot of prep work a novice can get pretty decent results. But he can also get one that turns out horrible too. I have painted for years, everything from car frames and other automotive items, all the way up to my '27 foot cruiser that I Imroned. I am not in the same league as Hotrodpaint, or some of the other really good painters on here, but I do know one end of the gun from the other. Even at that, I know my limitations. I will paint the running gear, but when it comes to large, flat surfaces like a car, I take it to a pro and let them do it for me.
However, don't let us scare you away from it. Do what the others suggest and get some education on the subject. The VoTech suggestion is a good one. I just had a Dupont rep in my office last week, and he also teaches body work at the local votech. He says they can't get enough students to make a class some times, and the equipment is there to use if you take the course.
Don
It might look easy, but after 40 years, and over 400 custom jobs, I can tell you that the "learning curve" has no end. When you get too confident is when you will get an immediate lesson in "humble". :-(
I would agree with the others here. Take a class if possible. That should teach you all of the needed information to get started. Take note of the basics, and stick to them. No matter how good you get, if you bend the rules, you will get bit. Also, get familiar with one paint system, and stick to it!
practice on a friends car**)
" whatever's there when you start .gonna be there when your done "
paint guns dont fix sh$t , they just make it shiny . good luck with it.
I appreciate all who replied. Thank you very much.
OK. First. The reason I am embarking on this endevour is that I was told by a friend of mine that "these days" with low pressure equipment and differences in media it's a lot easier than it used to be, I'm not trying to insult anybodys inteligents here by stating "it's easy" by no means as I am sure my first job will be quite an undertaking, and probably not produce the results I'm after. But nothing ventured nothing gained right?
School is not an potion as I have a Heating and Cooling bussines that does'nt allow me the time. Although it would be nice.
I want high quality eqipment and am willing to pay the price within reason, not to sound cheap but big $ doesn't always mean quality as we all know. Consider my air system below, I've got $367.32 invested in it and it out performs my friends $1200.00 outfit by far.
Tools; I do have a MIG ,a DA sander, plenty of hand tools ,and I will get every size sanding block that's offered, unless you guy's could give me a list of blocks so I don't end up with s*** I don'r relly need. I have 2 -15 gal. 125 psi 5.1 cfm compressers that I have ran in series w/a 80 gal external tank. I basicly Frankenstiened a 2-stage that produces exceptional delivery and pressure and should do the job, However, is there any sort of test i could perform to be completely sure it has what it takes?
I have a place I can convert into a booth and I have several old furnaces with high cfm blowers that should do the trick. I will want good filtration but it seems like I would want to try to keep the air-flow down to a minimum for obvious reasons. My only concern with the room would be space. I want to make sure I'm not bumping into any walls or anything right?
Here's the plan so far; Sand down the car w/120 and assess the damage.The passenger rear quarter might need replaced, not sure, I'll upload pictures of the Camaro (don't worry it's an '86) and see what you guy's think. Fill in any problem areas with filler (any brand should sufice?). Is there a rule of thumb as far as when to knock down the filler with a "cheese grater"? Like time or consistancecy?
'I have done a lot of sheet rock finishing and should help a little in this area(I hope). Sand, sand, sand, and sand some more, until I'm satisfied with the results.
Are there any tricks to insure it's gonna be good enough for paint? And then reduce the grit until I get to 1000/1200?
Is HVLP "high volume low pressure"?
Enamel, urathane, or lacqure?
Are there any water-baced paints as they said on Trucks? H.O.K I think they said.
Is it feasable to paint 1 area (fender or quarter panel) at a time, considering my lack of expertise?
I guess that's all for now , I'm sure I'll have a lot of questions, but I'm gonna try to avoid any problems I can through all the knowlede that all you guy's have and hopefully come out with a descent paint job.
Thanks for everything so far.
Rick
Oh yeah, I almost forgot, I have a horse trailer that needs painted. I can practice on that. And not make friends into enemies. Cape-Cod Bob.:LOL:
Go with urethane. It is the standard of the industry.
Use heavier sandpaper grits than you list. Work up to 180 before primer, then up to 400 before paint. Fine grits over 1000 are for final finishing after paint. If you use fine grits, you tend to smooth, but not flatten your body work and primer.....and you will take a lot longer than necessary to get anything done.
If you want to do a panel at a time, I would not attempt anything but a solid color.....and you'd better mix the hell out of it every time if you want a chance for the paint to match. I guarantee metallics will mismatch if you try this.
Rick,Quote:
Originally Posted by like2gofast
I'm sure that others will chime - but here we go:
Your compressor - It probably wont make it for a full car, but for panel painting it might work fine.Buy all of your paint at the same time and if in several quart cans, need to be mixed for color consistency. You will also have to make sure that your compressed air is dry - and that's another entire subject for discussion.
Sanding blocks are almost a personal thing. I'll show you in a photo some of what I use.
As far as blowers - just make sure you are pushing air over the surface instead of drawing it over UNLESS you are sure the motor is explosion proof. Paints and their solvents can get explosive with the correct mixture - then bang.
HVLP = High Volume Low Pressure and the best are gravity feed. You need between 10 and 15 cfm depending on the gun make for them to work right.
Urethane with a Base Coat/Clear Coat combination works the best and is the easiest though not necessarily the cheapest for a newbie to use. It will be the same as new car paints and most custom paint jobs
Water Based - not for the average guy. TV shows really don't tell you how difficult any paint job is - they tend to gloss over the hard stuff.
Lacquer - old technology and really not a good way to go in today's world.
Primer - epoxy is the best while the lacquer is the worst for protection with what is commonly called 2K in between and is a urethane base. Regular lacquer primer is NOT water resistant.
Your trailer will be a good place to start - but you do need that book I suggested if for no other reason then to get an idea on what it really takes.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...dingblocks.jpg
And what I'm building:
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...ld/Gone-on.jpg
Don't forget the safety issues. The new urethanes and catalized primers have isocyanates that can do great harm to you. Without a very good down draft booth a full face air supply mask in almost manditory. Take it from someone who has experienced the nasty effects. let the pros do it, you be glad you did.
John
First I haven’t painted a car in almost twenty years but when I did, I painted Acrylic lacquer, and also Dupont Centari Acrylic enamel. I had an explosion proof fan, a Dupont respirator 5-horse power sears air compressor three spray guns, Binks, DeVilbiss, Sharpe the old style before HVLP sometimes I would have to wait for the compressor to catch up.
The Corvette red was $100 a gallon and that was high back then, the enamel was cheaper.
My point is the paint jobs came out ok. I stripped a 77 Thunderbird in 81 that we bought new. I let my friend spray it, and I put it back together, after having the car look like new for a short time. I tried to miss a big buck deer with a big set of antlers but I couldn’t, he wiped the passenger side front fender, and door. I wasn’t working at the time and I told the insurance company that I would fix it myself. They said you can do that but before you get the money you will have to bring it in for our ok! I worked for along time trying to save as much as possible. It would have been a lot quicker to replace the fender since I took it off to pound it out I took the door off also. I got the fender, and door fixed and painted them. I put them back on the car, and went for my money from the insurance company. The guy could not believe how well the paint matched. I didn’t tell him the car had recently been painted. At first he tried to find fought so they could get by with out paying, as much as the damage, he said well you didn’t put a new fender on. I said no I didn’t but I put much more labor then a fender would have cost. He paid up.
My point is what’s wrong with the old paints? Are they also costly today? I know for a show car finish the base coat clear coat would have more of a shine.
This car was painted almost 20 years ago color change; it came out pretty nice according to a lot of people, and the guy that bought it. The cameras were not as good as today’s. I tried to make them bigger but it didn't work so they are hard to see. I was only going to paint the jams, hood edges, but Chris, my good friend had just gotten out of the hospital from a spinal cord injury that left him a quad. When he was in the hospital I told him he would have to get better so he could help me finish the Vette. I figured I would give it a coat outside, so he could be apart of it, and wet sand before the other 5 coats of lacquer, Chris could not have been in the garage with all of the fumes.
Richard
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(QUOTE)"My point is what’s wrong with the old paints? Are they also costly today? I know for a show car finish the base coat clear coat would have more of a shine."(QUOTE)
First of all the urethanes are far more durable and long-lasting than lacquer.....and I used lacquer for over 30 years! The real problem today is that nobody stocks it....no new color formulas are available in it....and it will eventually be outlawed, like it is in California. When I finally made the decision to switch, I had 350 cans of lacquer....but the last store selling lacquer, in a town of about a million people, called me and said they had been stocking their lacquer mixing system for ONE customer.....me! Now I can only get black, white, and clear, without going out of town for it. I gave my lacquer away, and switched.
I have also used acrylic enamel. Acrylic enamels are tough, especially with a hardener, but nobody makes custom colors in it, and the urethanes are just as easy to spray. Maybe easier.
Since a painter may have different types of work, why not use the paint that is most easily available, and with the largest selection of products? Some of the alternatives would be to try to mix products, or not be able to get the same paint to fix it with when a fender gets bent in five years.
I can't add much to what has been said here except that fillers have a time frame where they are very sandable. I'm a big believer in hand blocking everything even if it takes more time.. the nice thing abolut urethenes is that you can rework and reclear until you get it right. It never comes out perfect on the first try...I used to refuse to work in anything but lacquer and now I won't touch the stuff..
Thanks for the informative information, I've never painted base coat, clear coat but maybe I will try this winter. I still have the explosion proof fan from my old house. I have read about the hazards of not having the right intake of air so I'll have to get that worked out. I don't think the charcoal filter will be good enough, I hope I'm wrong because it's still in good shape. We can't but lacquer in our area anymore. I just thought that lacquer was safer on the lungs, the hardeners are bad as when I use them in the 80's. I'll keep reading, and thanks again a person is never too old to learn about whats better. I was seeing the high cost of materials is really high today.Quote:
Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
Richard
You will need a remote air mask or hood for the primers and clear. Charcoal is okay for non catalyzed paint.
Yes, paint is expensive. It seems to go up 10% per year, no matter what the economy is doing. The upside is that if you do it right, and take good care of it, quality paint will last as long as you have the car. That will save the materials AND labor you might have bought years from now. :-)
An HVLP gun helps. You can buy about 1/3rd less paint, since it puts more on the car, and less on the floor.
Thanks again, I have a low cost HVLP gun but if I'm going to pay the high cost of materials I'll get a name brand gun. I can pratice with cheaper gun first.
Richard
For the economy painter, I've found painting early in the morning when everything is calm (and the bugs are still asleep :whacked: ) is the best for a clean paint job. I once did a custom paint job on a p.u., 25 yrs. ago, base coat clear coat. Out of necessity I painted it outside. I shot the clear coat early in the morning as soon as the dew could be wiped off & surface stay dry. I had a couple small specs in the hood that were easily removed with a cut & buff. Looked as good as a paint booth/dryer job.
I admit that result probably wouldn't always be repeatable, but it worked that time. Even since then, in a shop, I always leave the final clear coat for early morning. NEVER PAINT AT NIGHT UNDER LIGHTS. Unless you're painting a bug zapper. :eek: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:
Quote:
Originally Posted by shine
I'm just starting on the bodywork to get my car painted so I found a lot of this info very helpful, thanks. How long can fiberfiller be on the car before you can't sand it?? I just put some on today and didn't get a chance to finish sanding and now I have to go back to work for a few days.
Shine-that's one of the best lines I've heard in a long time:LOL: .
Sean
Iv'e read enough to hurt my eyes and I 'm reasonably confident in my abilities to perform most of the task's to get the vehicle sanded slicker than snail snot( that means real smoothe to the folks up north :LOL: ), primered and with little reservation I'll attempt to lay down a base coat with out butchering it. I figure I can wet sand and re-coat enough to learn to do it right. The hard way, like always, but that clear coat steadely haunts me. Is it as difficult as I think it is?
What is a remote air mask or a charcoal for that matter Hotrod? And what is non-catalyzed? There are kits on the site you suggested for like $80.00. I sassume I want to avoid these? I'm not a big fan of cheap stuff and free is worse!
Oh! is one color easier to use than another? Cause I'm leaning toward orange like on IC2's outfit. Ausome car by-the-way, and thanks for the block info. Quite an extinsive aray, nothing like I would have imagined.
Should I be concerned with hose length for pressure drop reasons?
I would assume the lubricator on my compresser should be by-passed or perhaps deleted during the painting proccess.
You're scarin' me Willys!:HMMM: Will it be safe to use the squirell cages from these old furnaces and adequitly vent and filter my booth? What exactly is explotion proof? I would like to think that explotion proof motors would be standard issue in a GAS furnace. Most of these units are maybe 5 yrs. old. I take the older ones to the scrap yard. Hey!, it's not like I'm out there selling ice cubes to eskimos or anything, mostly it's the previous contractor that has sold an inadiquate unit to the customer. (so typical for New Mexico) These blower wheels also provide 5 different speeds as well. If any one ever needs fans for a home booth project you could go to any HVAC Contractor and they would gladly give you as many used furnaces you would want, then just pull 2 screws and slide out the whole blower assembly and the schematic is provided on the motor. It has to be better than $10.00 boxf ans from Wally world. And---- it's FREE!
I'm accualy studying about running 2 trunk lines over head for the booth and having it blow fresh air downwards over the project and then have 2 blowers on either side pulling out the bad air.
Pardon me for my prying. I'll try not to be a pain in the ass (my Ex was constantly reminding me of how good I was at that) but knowledge is power and I'd like to be armed to the teeth with it when I go to the supply house in hopes that I'll be able to disguise most of my ingnorance concening this existential vocation and not receive a severe pencil whipping from some counter salesman on commision looking at me and seeing a steak and lobster dinner.
All of your commments are greatly appreciated, there's no subtitute for hands on intelligents from real people. Very knowledgable!
If there's anybody living higher than 2000 ft. above sea level and are not familiar with the term D-RATING I can show you a way to save approximately $500.00 anually not to mention 10 years off the life of your equipment and possibly your home from distruction, (it happens a lot more than the media portrays) just ask me. Accually if there are any questions concerning H.V.A.C. feel free to inquire. That's Heating, Ventilation, Air, Conditioning for those of you not familiar with this nomanclature. There are a lot of great products that have just come out on the market.
These are photographs of the Camaro in conjunction with comments for areas I found to be Possibly daunting procedures.:whacked:
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/PIC_0034.jpg
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/PIC_0042.jpg
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/PIC_0043.jpg
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/PIC_0048.jpg
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/PIC_0053.jpg
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/PIC_0054.jpg
Well, it looks like I'm in the market for a compresser if you truly believe my outfit is inadiquate to spray the whole car. It seems like such a waste of time to work in sections what with clean-up and dialing in the gun every time, unless you think the practice would be good for me.What if I added another tank? Or am I grabbing at staws? I'm really proud (or was) of my Frankenstien compresser. I have another 60 gallon if you think it's worth it. I'd like to think there's a way to make it work.I would REALLY like to spray the whole car with it.
I have a drip leg installed to catch condensation and a filter as well. Iv'e not found any publication concerning this subject. Are there other apperatices (or apperati) I need to consider?
I hate to ask but is Campbell Hausfield worth a darn as far as spray guns are concerned? I mean just to get me through but do a nice job? They seem pretty cheap.:HMMM:
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
I cannot for the life of me find that book you suggested! Do have any more information to offer me?:confused:
Quote:
Originally Posted by IC2
It's all in the prep work. That seams to be the re-acurring statement.:rolleyes:
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sinister
OK - compressor. The biggest you can afford. Mine is not huge, but does have the cfm rating, which is the buzz word along with duty cycle. If you buy a 60 gallon tanked compressor but it only has a 35% duty cycle, it wont last long. A 30 gallon with a 100% duty cycle will run all day at full output. Be very careful of the units you get at the big box stores. My first one blew and they replaced it with a bigger better.
DO NOT use your lubricator and DO NOT use the air hose that you used with it as there still might be some oil carry over.
As far as a dryer, a 50 foot run of copper or cleaned black iron with a couple of valved drip legs seem to work the best. DO NOT use PVC. It will fracture plus has no cooling value. At the end of the line, add a pretty good air dryer. I have a cheapo Harbor Freight as a pre-filter to knock out any crud, then a Sharpe for final clean. I'll post a photo later - it works.http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...irfilters1.jpg
I'll dig up my copy of the book(s) and give you better information - mine came from Border's. The best IMO, one is the book on the left and by Motorbooks Workshop, ISBN 0-7603-1583-3 http://www.motorbooks.com/.
http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...Paintbooks.jpg
A Campbell Hausfield gun will probably do fine for primers. I've had good luck with my Devillbiss Finishline 3, but really love my Iwata LPH 400 photo here - but too much $$ for casual use. http://i70.photobucket.com/albums/i8...hild/Iwata.jpg
To do one car, a full face mask with a charcoal cannister MIGHT work for you. I had to buy a supplied air system as I found that I am allergic to the clears and epoxies. This stuff is nasty - iso cyanates (cyanide ??) - in sufficient quantities can mess up your lungs forever - and each individual has a different tolerance level. I vote for the supplied air system. Mine is a low end Hobbyaire
Colors - for a newbie - stay away from highly metallic paints, especially silver - that is unless you like tiger stripes. The orange that I used is very forgiving but you do need light gray or white primers under it as it will take more coats to cover then they say
To answer Sean's question - filler can always be sanded but it gets harder as it ages. It just takes more sandpaper:LOL:
Here you go, this is what you need to paint your car ;)
A computer to tell you what to mix together.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...eencapture.jpg
A scale hooked up to the computer to tell you that you are mixing it correctly.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...rizedscale.jpg
The inventory to support the exact color you want to mix.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/.../inventory.jpg
The paint booth so you can spray it in a heat/humidity controlled environment.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/data/500/booth.jpg
A decent set of air compressors so that you have enough volume to do the entire vehicle at once.
http://www.clubhotrod.com/photopost/...ompressors.jpg
Bill S.
Thanks a lot pard, you've been a great help. A virtual plethera of statistics. No but seriously, thanks
Did I mention having the right guns for the day/materials/temperature/humidity/etc :eek:Quote:
Originally Posted by like2gofast
Bill S.
PS: Hopefully you saw the my other posts in regards to paint the last two days ;)
How could anyone resist trying to paint this car, it's begging for it.:)
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/r...t/PIC_0063.jpg
Now that I've seen it, I suggest starting off with an aircraft safe stripper (keep this away from any and all plastic parts and trim), next start off by sanding the body with 180 grit automotive sandpaper, work your way up to 220 grit sandpaper to remove the scratches the 180 grit leaves. Top that off with 320 grit automotive sandpaper (buy yourself a top quality 6 inch DA) to remove all of the scratches the 220 grit leaves....Next, get yourself a good quality epoxy primer and place a full coat or two on the car. After that you can do whatever minor body work needs to be done (fill in dings and such), sand it all down with 400 grit paper (re-prime any bare body filler first), then and only then can you attempt to paint the car yourself. I figure just in materials and tools alone you'll run in the $400-$500 range by the time you are done and ready for paint.........Of course you could take it to a shop like mine and have the whole thing done for you for around $600 ;)Quote:
Originally Posted by like2gofast
Bill S.
It's not for everyone! I have had a lot of customers say "I painted a car once.....and I'll never do it again". But, you won't know if you'll find it rewarding, unless you try. :-)
To add to that, if we have a customer come in to "fix his mistakes", it cost more as we have to remove everything he(she) laid on the car and start from scratch....No joke!Quote:
Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
Bill S.
I totally understand! :-( You can't paint over questionable, or unstable paint.
But at times I consider my painter (no, not me) unstable and questionable, is that the same thing :LOL:Quote:
Originally Posted by HOTRODPAINT
Brings to memory when I painted my Harley a long time back with Imron urathane. It actually looked real good for a few years. Then one day at the carwash I hit it with the pressure washer and the top coat blew off the tank in a large sheet leaving the primer exposed.Quote:
You can't paint over questionable, or unstable paint.
It was either the wrong primer, or inadequate prep. I don't think I sanded the primer properly before the top coat. And I had rattle canned the primer coat.
That doesn't mean I wouldn't try again, but I will be more careful and follow the advice of the pros on this site.
Good luck with your project -
For me it was Harley saddlebags. One day at the carwash, the clear blew off! I had accidentally skipped a step, and told the owner it could happen...just bring it back if it does. He was understanding, and knew I would stand behind it, since I had done other jobs for him. (No, they did not fail) :-)
Today I am very careful, and guarantee my work for as long as they own it.....no time limit.
I don't think all of you understand what kind of influances you are. The more I read the more confidant I get, but look I paid $500.00 for the car and it's not like it's a classic or anything for pete's sake it's and '86. Although I will gather as much info as I can and put all of my expertice Iv'e learned hear and it WILL turn out great! It's a whole new ball game now I have to make you guys tell me I did a good job. And I will make you say it. I'm not gonna go out there tommarrow( I can't spell that word) and start slingin' paint chips or maybe not for a week cause when I do I'll try my damndest to have everything I need to do it right. Hell man this is the school.
I upholstered my boat with no help at all but it took me like three months after I bought a 1953 Morse sewing machine (yes I got jacked with a lot)for $50.00 @the swap meet before I had enough information to give me the confidence to even buy the material, but tell me what you think? It's not too bad considering I didn't have hands on folks like Y'all to help me.(OK fine I'm redneck as hell) and I have a 7th grade education, but that don't mean I'm dumber than a box of hammer handles,Right? Right!
http://i470.photobucket.com/albums/r...PIC_0069-1.jpg
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I will get that car painted, Oh I'm sorry WE will get that car painted all of us and it's gonna shine like a diamond in a goats ass, cause you got Ricky Lee on the job son.
I shouldv'e been an motivational speaker. No but seriously It's gonna be good.
Iv'e got a good sander and I'm going tomarrow to buy a compresser (high volume) and all the sand paper I need per mustangs advice. By-the -way I liked the extremely precise directions, I need that.
So what do I do about the plastic? I can buy an insert from Ecklers for $70.00 it's only cracked right by the head light. The wole front is 350.00. If I can fix it should I take it off for prep?
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I can't get no response on that 383 I'm building for this speed casket. That tech inspector nows his s*** but he's always busy. I just need to know what kind of 350 block I have, I have searched everywhere for those specs. I posted the numbers here but no results.
I didn't read the thread, so my apologies if I step on toes, or say anything which has already been said.
Having said THAT... my .02 :
Find someone who is willing to let you 'help'. Helping will probably cost you more in the long run, but will be cheaper than trying it yourself, then having it re-done.
I like that idea. Some real hands on, now that's the school right there. Thanks I'll deffinately look around.Don't appolagize for having good ideas. That's a great Idea.I can leave when ever I want or need to, I can mostley hide and watch or what ever. And these are the guys that know just like these guys here. And I guarantee you I can talk 'em into it for free. Accually I know just the place, damn man, thanks. I'll have to say it again That's a great Idea.
Those that can't do it, teach it. Those that can't teach it are inspectors. Old Calif. construction joke. I hope that tech inspector guy doesn't take offence.
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Originally Posted by firebird77clone
